I rebuilt my P/S Pump
#1
I rebuilt my P/S Pump
I decided to rebuild my P/S pump in my 70 442. It has a small leak, so I decided to buy the rebuild kit (about$10), and give it a go.
The process is strait forward, but a little oily.
The toughest part was geeting the pulley nut and pulley off.
The rest is cleaning the parts and reassembling.
I took the time to strip off the paint on the housing and pulley, and gave them a coat of etching primer and a coat of semi gloss black.
The FSM has a great and detailed write up with pictures.
Add this to my newly found skills or starter and alternator rebuilds too...
The process is strait forward, but a little oily.
The toughest part was geeting the pulley nut and pulley off.
The rest is cleaning the parts and reassembling.
I took the time to strip off the paint on the housing and pulley, and gave them a coat of etching primer and a coat of semi gloss black.
The FSM has a great and detailed write up with pictures.
Add this to my newly found skills or starter and alternator rebuilds too...
#2
P/S Rebuild
MY442:
Great to hear! Exactly where did you get the info to do it? Forgive my ignorance, but what is FSM? Please let me know where you got the rebuild kit and what puller you used on the pully. Thanks! Merry Christmas!
Steve
Great to hear! Exactly where did you get the info to do it? Forgive my ignorance, but what is FSM? Please let me know where you got the rebuild kit and what puller you used on the pully. Thanks! Merry Christmas!
Steve
#4
The 68-72 pumps have a pressed on pulley - no puller.
You put an old nut on the shaft, and give it a few whacks with a small hammer.
The kits come from www.pskits.com
Get the manual!
You put an old nut on the shaft, and give it a few whacks with a small hammer.
The kits come from www.pskits.com
Get the manual!
#5
The kits come from www.pskits.com
#8
I too have just resealed my power steering pump on my 71 442. It was looking rather crummy and it needed to be repainted. I purchased a seal kit from a local Canadian Tire Auto supply store. It was in an old beat up box from Edelmann, a division of Stant Corp. in Dixon, Ill. I believe Stant are the rad cap people. Part # 7918. It contains all the O rings and the shaft seal. The seal kit is also available from GM but rather pricey. GM also sells the shaft seal separately, part number 15277770.
You guys are right about getting the pulley off. I had trouble clamping the pulley without damaging it. A buddy of mine said to use an impact gun as it has the torque to spin the nut free while you are only holding the pulley with your hand. I tried my battery drill/driver used for carpentry jobs and voila the nut spun off. I also removed the nut from the alternator by holding the alternator fan, also by hand. Experience is great to share.
I had the pump body and pulley sandblasted, filled, primed and painted. Looks pretty good, if I do say so myself. The only trouble I had was getting the body/reservoir to go over the big O ring and to have it sit even and flush. Patience is a virtue. The shaft seal was removed per the Chassis manual, screwdriver/chisel and hammer. The new seal was easily installed with the appropriate size socket and hammer.
Another part restoration done in the long line of resto projects to come.
You guys are right about getting the pulley off. I had trouble clamping the pulley without damaging it. A buddy of mine said to use an impact gun as it has the torque to spin the nut free while you are only holding the pulley with your hand. I tried my battery drill/driver used for carpentry jobs and voila the nut spun off. I also removed the nut from the alternator by holding the alternator fan, also by hand. Experience is great to share.
I had the pump body and pulley sandblasted, filled, primed and painted. Looks pretty good, if I do say so myself. The only trouble I had was getting the body/reservoir to go over the big O ring and to have it sit even and flush. Patience is a virtue. The shaft seal was removed per the Chassis manual, screwdriver/chisel and hammer. The new seal was easily installed with the appropriate size socket and hammer.
Another part restoration done in the long line of resto projects to come.
#9
I got the pulley nut off mine using a strap wrench on the O.D. of the pulley and a breaker bar w/ a 7/8" socket on the nut, but now I can not figure out how to slide the pulley off without damaging it???
The three finger gear pullers that I am finding will not open large enough to grab the large O.D. of the pulley
The three finger gear pullers that I am finding will not open large enough to grab the large O.D. of the pulley
#10
If this is for an early 70's Cutlass it should just come off. Perhaps just dirt and corrosion are holding it on. Getting the nut off is the hard work. Lubricate well and perhaps tap the shaft (with the nut still on so as not to damage the threads) with a small persuader.
#11
If this is for an early 70's Cutlass it should just come off. Perhaps just dirt and corrosion are holding it on. Getting the nut off is the hard work. Lubricate well and perhaps tap the shaft (with the nut still on so as not to damage the threads) with a small persuader.
I see a "key way" slot on the I.D. of pulley's hub.
This pulley is not pressed on??? It will just slide off by hand???
#13
You need to use a pulley puller.
Available at NAPA, Harbor Freight, etc. Less than $20, if I recall.
Fits right on and pops it off.
Alternatively, a tie rod puller will probably work.
I can post pictures, but not right now.
- Eric
Available at NAPA, Harbor Freight, etc. Less than $20, if I recall.
Fits right on and pops it off.
Alternatively, a tie rod puller will probably work.
I can post pictures, but not right now.
- Eric
#16
I would not use that either.
If your pulley is stuck on the shaft due to rust, it will bend first.
Use the hammer and old nut method (which comes out of the FSM).
But, it's your pulley.....
If your pulley is stuck on the shaft due to rust, it will bend first.
Use the hammer and old nut method (which comes out of the FSM).
But, it's your pulley.....
#17
It's not rust.
It's a press fit tapered shaft (with a key, but the key is not supposed to be the thing that holds the pulley in place on the shaft).
It should not just slip off when you take off the nut, and hitting it with a hammer is no way to remove it.
A pulley puller is the right tool for removing a PS pump pulley.
I wish I could find my unit repair manual, so I could post a picture.
- Eric
It's a press fit tapered shaft (with a key, but the key is not supposed to be the thing that holds the pulley in place on the shaft).
It should not just slip off when you take off the nut, and hitting it with a hammer is no way to remove it.
A pulley puller is the right tool for removing a PS pump pulley.
I wish I could find my unit repair manual, so I could post a picture.
- Eric
#18
Paul, you were correct, and I am so embarrassed!!!
Last night I just put my fingures in the fan belt grooves of the pulley and using my thumbs to press on the pump shaft and the pulley moved, so I gave the pulley one more good tug and it slid right off.
I guess I just had it made up in my mind that the pulley was pressed on.
The only other P/S pump pulley that I have ever removed was on my '81 Cutlass, and I definitely had to use a puller on it, as it was a press fit with no "key way" slot.
Anyway now I know, and I also appreciate all the help!!!
Last night I just put my fingures in the fan belt grooves of the pulley and using my thumbs to press on the pump shaft and the pulley moved, so I gave the pulley one more good tug and it slid right off.
I guess I just had it made up in my mind that the pulley was pressed on.
The only other P/S pump pulley that I have ever removed was on my '81 Cutlass, and I definitely had to use a puller on it, as it was a press fit with no "key way" slot.
Anyway now I know, and I also appreciate all the help!!!
#19
It's not rust.
It's a press fit tapered shaft (with a key, but the key is not supposed to be the thing that holds the pulley in place on the shaft).
It should not just slip off when you take off the nut, and hitting it with a hammer is no way to remove it.
A pulley puller is the right tool for removing a PS pump pulley.
I wish I could find my unit repair manual, so I could post a picture.
- Eric
It's a press fit tapered shaft (with a key, but the key is not supposed to be the thing that holds the pulley in place on the shaft).
It should not just slip off when you take off the nut, and hitting it with a hammer is no way to remove it.
A pulley puller is the right tool for removing a PS pump pulley.
I wish I could find my unit repair manual, so I could post a picture.
- Eric
#20
Here is some photos of the bare naked (freshly bead blasted) KH coded P/S pump pulley, for future referance.
IMG_1007.jpg
IMG_1012.jpg
IMG_1015.jpg
IMG_1007.jpg
IMG_1012.jpg
IMG_1015.jpg
#21
That's a different pulley than the one I was thinking of...
If you look at the bottom photo, the central hub blends directly into the shaft.
The other kind (which I have found on various models), has a distinct groove where the puller jaws fit in.
- Eric
If you look at the bottom photo, the central hub blends directly into the shaft.
The other kind (which I have found on various models), has a distinct groove where the puller jaws fit in.
- Eric
#22
I know what you mean. It was hard for me to tell if the snout had a rounded groove for the puller, until it was bead blasted clean.
#23
DO NOT USE A PULLEY PULER ON THE 68-72 PRESSED ON PULLEYS!!!
You WILL bend it.
Put a nut on the end of the threaded shaft to protect the threads, and hit it hard with a hammer. It will pop off.
You WILL bend it.
Put a nut on the end of the threaded shaft to protect the threads, and hit it hard with a hammer. It will pop off.
needed this a few month ago tried to loosen it but did'nt work.
bent the housing and it leaked, pulled it off again to disassembel the whole think and re sealed it.
#24
The 68-72 pumps have a pressed on pulley - no puller.
You put an old nut on the shaft, and give it a few whacks with a small hammer.
The kits come from www.pskits.com
Get the manual!
You put an old nut on the shaft, and give it a few whacks with a small hammer.
The kits come from www.pskits.com
Get the manual!
Do these rebuild kits address the shaft wobbling? I have noticeable wobble in the shaft when it spins. I went with RockAuto initially to get a remanufactured one, but when I got it it literally looked like someone took a hammer to the reservoir and the pump housing was very rusted. Of course they (Cardone) tried to hide it by painting everything black.
But I digress, if the kits come with a way to fix the shaft wobble, I may just fix mine as it looks brand new compared to the crap I got from RockAuto.
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brandon reynolds
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April 10th, 2012 12:06 PM