I decided to rebuild my P/S pump in my 70 442. It has a small leak, so I decided to buy the rebuild kit (about$10), and give it a go.

The process is strait forward, but a little oily.

The toughest part was geeting the pulley nut and pulley off.

The rest is cleaning the parts and reassembling.

I took the time to strip off the paint on the housing and pulley, and gave them a coat of etching primer and a coat of semi gloss black.

The FSM has a great and detailed write up with pictures.

Add this to my newly found skills or starter and alternator rebuilds too...

 

MY442:
Great to hear! Exactly where did you get the info to do it? Forgive my ignorance, but what is FSM? Please let me know where you got the rebuild kit and what puller you used on the pully. Thanks! Merry Christmas!
Steve

 

FSM = Factory Service Manual

 

The 68-72 pumps have a pressed on pulley - no puller.

You put an old nut on the shaft, and give it a few whacks with a small hammer.

The kits come from www.pskits.com

Get the manual!

 

I got mine from Advance Auto for about the same price.

 

I tried to rebuild my p/s pump but got hung up trying to install the new bushing. Gave it my best shot then exchanged it for a rebuilt unit from NAPA.

 

Neat! I've read the write-up, but didn't realize the rebuild parts were so easy to get.

For the price, I think I'll rebuild a spare, just to learn the lay of the land.

- Eric

 

I too have just resealed my power steering pump on my 71 442. It was looking rather crummy and it needed to be repainted. I purchased a seal kit from a local Canadian Tire Auto supply store. It was in an old beat up box from Edelmann, a division of Stant Corp. in Dixon, Ill. I believe Stant are the rad cap people. Part # 7918. It contains all the O rings and the shaft seal. The seal kit is also available from GM but rather pricey. GM also sells the shaft seal separately, part number 15277770.
You guys are right about getting the pulley off. I had trouble clamping the pulley without damaging it. A buddy of mine said to use an impact gun as it has the torque to spin the nut free while you are only holding the pulley with your hand. I tried my battery drill/driver used for carpentry jobs and voila the nut spun off. I also removed the nut from the alternator by holding the alternator fan, also by hand. Experience is great to share.
I had the pump body and pulley sandblasted, filled, primed and painted. Looks pretty good, if I do say so myself. The only trouble I had was getting the body/reservoir to go over the big O ring and to have it sit even and flush. Patience is a virtue. The shaft seal was removed per the Chassis manual, screwdriver/chisel and hammer. The new seal was easily installed with the appropriate size socket and hammer.

Another part restoration done in the long line of resto projects to come.

 

I got the pulley nut off mine using a strap wrench on the O.D. of the pulley and a breaker bar w/ a 7/8" socket on the nut, but now I can not figure out how to slide the pulley off without damaging it???

The three finger gear pullers that I am finding will not open large enough to grab the large O.D. of the pulley

 

If this is for an early 70's Cutlass it should just come off. Perhaps just dirt and corrosion are holding it on. Getting the nut off is the hard work. Lubricate well and perhaps tap the shaft (with the nut still on so as not to damage the threads) with a small persuader.

 

It is a '70 442 with a two groove power steering pump pulley.

I see a "key way" slot on the I.D. of pulley's hub.

This pulley is not pressed on??? It will just slide off by hand???

 

Mine came off that way. I think because they use a key they aren't pressed on. Later pumps were pressed on but didn't use a keyway.

See response from My442 as well. Good luck.

 

You need to use a pulley puller.

Available at NAPA, Harbor Freight, etc. Less than $20, if I recall.
Fits right on and pops it off.
Alternatively, a tie rod puller will probably work.
I can post pictures, but not right now.

- Eric

 

DO NOT USE A PULLEY PULER ON THE 68-72 PRESSED ON PULLEYS!!!

You WILL bend it.

Put a nut on the end of the threaded shaft to protect the threads, and hit it hard with a hammer. It will pop off.

 

No.

This is the exact right tool to use. $14.99 at Harbor Freight:


Don't use a gear puller:


- Eric

 

I would not use that either.

If your pulley is stuck on the shaft due to rust, it will bend first.

Use the hammer and old nut method (which comes out of the FSM).

But, it's your pulley.....

 

It's not rust.
It's a press fit tapered shaft (with a key, but the key is not supposed to be the thing that holds the pulley in place on the shaft).
It should not just slip off when you take off the nut, and hitting it with a hammer is no way to remove it.
A pulley puller is the right tool for removing a PS pump pulley.
I wish I could find my unit repair manual, so I could post a picture.

- Eric

 

Paul, you were correct, and I am so embarrassed!!!

Last night I just put my fingures in the fan belt grooves of the pulley and using my thumbs to press on the pump shaft and the pulley moved, so I gave the pulley one more good tug and it slid right off.

I guess I just had it made up in my mind that the pulley was pressed on.

The only other P/S pump pulley that I have ever removed was on my '81 Cutlass, and I definitely had to use a puller on it, as it was a press fit with no "key way" slot.

Anyway now I know, and I also appreciate all the help!!!

 

Thank you Eric for your help. The pulley slid right off with a good tug. I guess all of the years of the pump leaking onto the shaft had it lubed up and kept the rust from ever forming.

 

Here is some photos of the bare naked (freshly bead blasted) KH coded P/S pump pulley, for future referance.

IMG_1007.jpg

IMG_1012.jpg

IMG_1015.jpg

 

That's a different pulley than the one I was thinking of...

If you look at the bottom photo, the central hub blends directly into the shaft.
The other kind (which I have found on various models), has a distinct groove where the puller jaws fit in.

- Eric

 

I know what you mean. It was hard for me to tell if the snout had a rounded groove for the puller, until it was bead blasted clean.

 

now he say's

needed this a few month ago tried to loosen it but did'nt work.

bent the housing and it leaked, pulled it off again to disassembel the whole think and re sealed it.

 

Do these rebuild kits address the shaft wobbling? I have noticeable wobble in the shaft when it spins. I went with RockAuto initially to get a remanufactured one, but when I got it it literally looked like someone took a hammer to the reservoir and the pump housing was very rusted. Of course they (Cardone) tried to hide it by painting everything black.

But I digress, if the kits come with a way to fix the shaft wobble, I may just fix mine as it looks brand new compared to the crap I got from RockAuto.

d1

 

d1;

I've got one out of 69 for the cost of shipping if you want it. no wobble

 

Sure, why not. I'll send you a PM.

Thanks