Charles Ludwick

I learned exactly how fragile a 43 year old headlight housing is...

i tried to be careful and still broke some of the tips ...

also learned what a pain in the but that crazy 2 sided bolt for the front bumper can be...

i also learned that i am going to need more gloss black rustoleum

Allan R

Sounds like you learned a lot today!

citcapp

sounds like a typical day in old carsville to me If it ain't bent busted or broken at some point I don't own it

Allan R

Yup, old stuff breaks pretty easy if it's plastic. Is the damage real bad or can you fix it? You can buy repop stuff if it's damaged too badly. Hope the rustoleum isn't a sign that the corrosion is out of hand. Otherwise no amount of paint is going to stop the inevitable

Charles Ludwick

they are not to bad i should have no problems ....

the rustoleum is for painting the engine bay and firewall .... i wanna keep the car for a long time dont wanna hide the rust ...

Allan R

Ah HAH! Charles = you're not allowed to post anymore. Your posting number = your car build year!!! Just kidding....too late anyway
On a more serious note? re: hiding the rust. I have to disagree with you. You WANT to not only hide it, you want to GET RID OF IT if you can. Once rust gets a foot hold on your car it grows exponentially, not arithmatically. You gotta get if off any way you can if you really want to keep the car for a long time. Go ahead, ask me how I know....I spent $$$ repairing rust on my 95 Regency over 4 years. Doesn't help the car came from the rust belt. Most of the surface rusting was like looking at an iceberg - there was 90% more on the inside of the metal. I didn't know that till I put my jack, then my fingers through the rocker panels. Guess where my Regency is now? Oldsmobile heaven - it rusted to the point of being unsafe.

Charles Ludwick

i meant i not gonna hide any rust with the paint have been sanding any surface rust i can get to then painting ... there is very little rust on the body which will be cut out and removed!! finally making progresss !!!

within the last week have
1.)removed motor and sent to machine shop..
2.)ordered motor mounts, new exhaust, edelbrock manifold etc. .. have my existing 4 barrel manifold avail.. make an offer
3.) removed 2spd tranny (i have available if anyone is interested just make an offer) ordered my turbo 350 w shift kit.
4)cleaned and painted engine compartment..
5) found edelbrock valve covers here and bought
6)found my 15 inch ss2 wheels here so i will now have a set of 14s with rings and caps available,, make an offer ..
when removing my old exhaust some of the bolts broke into manifold this was stock
dual exhaust manifold this is also available..

i could keep on listing but ....

Charles Ludwick

up to 71 posts guess i gotta get a 71 now

Allan R

Don't go there or you'll go broke. Either that or you'll end up with 442 (neat round number) project cars

Charles Ludwick

i might go after this though... now that i have all these spare 68 parts might as well start building my stable

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/ssd/cto/2765768726.html


is that a 68 front end on a 69 ???

Allan R

Yes it is! I was going to comment the same thing. I suspect this car has a 'blended history', it's got a 69 rear end and a 68 front clip. No question about that because the rear styling is unique where the talights go. That suggests it's been in a bit of a smackup and someone couldn't find the front end parts for the 69.

Serious buyers only?? Give me a break. For that price it should be all 69 parts on it. Ask him for the VIN so you can determine that it actually is a 69. Then ask why it has a 68 front clip on it. Is the car close enough for you to go take a look at?

Charles Ludwick

yeah maybe 5 minutes max goin to look tomorrow.....

Charles Ludwick

also just noticed something under the car so it has an oil leak and im guessing
the wife dont like it staining the driveway and she wants it gone !!!

also gonna guess with no wing window that it is in fact a 69

Allan R

Take your camera and get lots of shots. VIN and cowl tag pics would be neat to see. Don't be afraid to get down under and have a good look.

Yeah, I thought that was odd too. probably a 5 gallon bucket over under the rad? That might not be good. Stay objective, but don't buy it for that price. Let him know you know what it is and what's not right. If he insists the car is original - walk away. How much you willing to go if it's in generally good restorable shape? Verts are nice cars; wouldn't mind owning one myself. I would prefer 70-72 only because they are easier to work on under the dash.

Charles Ludwick

max since its mixed is about 1800

Charles Ludwick

I think i have my color choice down to 2 ... here they are..

Rickman48

I've mentioned a product called 'Metal Prep' a couple times before, but have to mention it again.
Even after sanding to bare metal, the humidity in the air immediatly starts the rust process all over again - metal prep, although mixed with water, KILLS the oxidation, and you can then paint over it!
Most people also don't know that primer absorbs moisture - don't leave it for too long, or it'll begin rusting again!

As for the color choice, that silver is the way to go, especially if it's the original color!

Charles Ludwick

the original is the light green ..

Allan R

Silver with black vinyl roof ALL DAY LONG. Is that Tom's 68 with the copper?

Charles Ludwick

not sure who owns the orange one ... its near the same color as my H2 ...i like them both ... i had first thought of the orange but liking the silver more every day

Allan R

Can't dodge this. I'm partial to silver - no bout a dout it!

If yours is the original paint, I'm guessing it was code P (silver green)? I just like the way a brighter silver pops and shows contours better. Just have to make sure your body work is flawless or it will show the trouble spots just as well as the perfect spots.

You go look at the 68/69 yet?

Charles Ludwick

this is what the rustoleum was for

Allan R

You did some nice work there. I can't believe you yanked the motor just to clean the engine bay and forgot to take out the inner liners. Out of curiosity are the 68 inner liners metal or plastic?

Charles Ludwick

they are plastic and i was able to paint around them pretty good...
they cleaned up really nice also...

but the motor was yanked cause of the bent rods...its at the machine shop




picked up my tranny today the 200r4

Allan R

So with a fresh motor, a 200R4 and (I'm guessing 2:73 or 2:78 rear) you should be able to do a lot of driving without burning a lot of gas.