Well, unfortunately my feelings for my 70 Cutlass convert has changed to a hate relationship. This could be your opportunity. I was coming home the other day and it quit and smoke coming from the under the hood. I had a short that I discovered. The positive cable that runs from the battery to the starter. had shorted out. I had to drop the headers and the starter to change it. I am to old and fat now, to be crawling on the garage floor and doing that kind of work. So I get it all done and take it for a test drive. I get 3 miles and the same thing happens. This time I guess I had the cable to close to the exhaust and it melted and shorted out again. I'm not re doing it. So, I'm looking to sell it. I know without it running the value is less. So is there a way to some how to jerry rig it. So I can start it to get the full value of it. Then explain you will need to change the cable ect. Now, your opportunity, I know you guys like the oldsmobiles. I would give you first dibs at it. approximately what is the going price for a 70 vert.. I know a lot of things factor into that. I will give all the details if you Seriously interested. Other wise I will write up an add and put it on Craigslist.

 

I would get it running again, then place a proper classified ad on here with pictures, price and location, if that's the direction you want to go.

 

Sorry to hear about your troubles, but think it through for a few days. I sold mine for good reasons three months ago ,and when I go , to the basement where it stayed I still have a
"Lost feeling". A cable will be inexpensive even if you have it done by an expierenced mechanic. Probably a lot less expensive, than selling it, then deciding you made a mistake, and trying to find a replacement. Good luck, Larry

 

Things like this happen from time to time. I've had one of my classics up on jack stands for two months now as I up-graded the suspension only to have a starter problem hit me once I was done with the suspension. Oh well, such as life.

You will take a serious hit on the car if it runs but you can't prove it.
It might be worth finding a local rod shop and getting it fixed before you decide whether to sell it or not. Sometimes I drop my car off at a local shop for repairs just because I am to lazy to fix something myself. And sometimes because I may not be completely comfortable doing the work myself.

And remember, once it's sold, it's gone. For good.

With that said. If you decide to sell it please post pictures and details.
Also include a price and the city and state the car is in.

 

it can easily be fixed.....this time use the heat shield sleeve ( approx 6 inches long) the kind that is used on the end of the spark wires at the plugs. it will shield the positive battery cable from any exhaust or header situations....works perfect.

dal442

 

It's hard to get seriously interested in a car we no almost nothing about except it is broken?

 

A cable is inexpensive. but the time and crawling under the car. pulling the headers and dropping the starter. That is a lot of labor. for me or a shop. I know I just got done doing it yesterday.. That is why I'm frustrated. Plus I will have to tow it to the shop. because with the cable fried I cant start it.

 

Thats what I was thinking also. My local auto store didn't have any. is there an online place?

 

I understand.. I was mostly venting. I didnt want to turn this post into a classified. There is a section for that. If there was interest I would post in the proper place. Sorry for the confusion.

 

I agree with other people who want you to wait a bit. I just bought my '70 a couple months ago and am still in the "IN LOVE" stage of the process. I think the '70 Cutlass Convertible may be the best car ever created, it is perfect. I love the looks, the interior and the performance. It is the whole package. Sounds great too and when you take a cruise with the top down, heaven on earth. Maybe you could find someone on this forum that could come over for an hour or two and get this issue solved. Good luck with getting ti fixed and remember one thing, you have great taste in cars!!!

 

Do you have the battery cable guide that attaches to the frame?

I found that by attaching the cable lug to the stud on the solenoid so that it points toward the block helped angle the cable away from the headers. I also put some kinks or bends in the cable so that it would hug the block.

 

I had the same problem but what I did to my 70 Cutlass, I went to a diesel truck parts store that makes battery cables. I gave them the size of the length and they made me a longer battery cable that I routed under the power steering pump and front/under the headers. No more going through the headers.

 

I believe the 70 Cutlass convertible is an outstanding investment. They are great looking cars that are still priced in a range the average Joe can actually afford, yet they are gaining in both popularity and value as others start to take notice of this very under appreciated model.

 

No, this car was pretty hacked up when I got it.

 

The battery guide is available online. It's a round tube that bolts to the frame and the battery cable goes through it. Keeps it off the exhaust. Where are you located? After you get it fixed hold off selling it till you've had time to think about it for a while. I sold one and only two months later started over looking for another.

 

Thats such a minor issue i wouldnt quit over that. Where do i start. 4 years ago when i first moved in my 350 broke 2 pistons , drove around with a 307 that whole summer while i built my current 355. I installed then the th400 took a dump so i ended up re building by my self a th350 for my new set up. Then i decided to sell my fiberglass fenders and hood to go back to steel only to find out my body mounts had collapsed so i took the body off the frame fixed the frame and body mount pockets on the fire wall. Im starting to assemble the body and im getting ready to install my engine when i realize there was coolant in one cylinder. Took the engine apart to find the cam had wiped out the cam bearings , so i addressed the issues on this low milage engine i had just built and added a new cam. We broke the engine in and the hose popped off and i got second degree burns to my whole upper left body barely missing my face. After 2 years of many ups and downs the car has been the most reliable it has been in a long time. The last 2 years i havent done much to it besides fix the trans as i had a pump seal break on the pump but i considered that minor. The hard work does pay off and so does patience. I never once thought about giving up. I have developed back problems and when i dropped the trans this spring it was not easy but i managed .


Im just saying if thats your excuse . I should have just set my car on fire years ago.


Oh yeah and this winter im going to re paint it , its getting a higher hp engine i built along with a new trans i built and new front control arms.

One of the best things that is starting to reflect my work is being careful and taking my time . wether it be my cutlass or cars at work.

 

Just looked at your post from back when you first got your cutlass. That's beautiful car.

When you where driving home and smoke came out, how where you feeling about the car before it broke down? Were you enjoying the drive maybe with the top down or people noticing the car? If you were driving it you must have had some reason for that. It's a bad time now because you did all that labor to see it blow up in your face. Would make anyone question ownership but now you have recommendations on how to keep that issue from happening again or better yet have a good shop fix it. They have lifts and should be able to run the new wire much faster than "your old fat ***" laying on the ground. plus it it fails , they redo it warranty style.

 

I'd give just let it sit for a week or two and then decide what you are going to do with it. Problems like this are frustrating, but not as frustrating as letting go of something that was yours if you truly weren't ready to do it. If you decide on selling, make sure you get some pics with you/family/friends inside the car before you let it go.

 

A cheap but effective answer is to use a piece of heat resistant split loom conduit. I harvested a section from a circa 2000 W body (Grand Prix I think) at the U Pull It and used it on my starter wiring. On the W cars it's used to insulate/protect the fuel lines. They charged me $1 or so.

 

One of the most important things to have for these cars is a dedicated space in which to work on them. If you get frustrated, put down the tools, shut the door, go have a beer, and come back later. I have had mine for almost 11 years, and only lived with it on the same property for 1 year. All it does now is run and drive, but not well. I will make it perfect though, one day.

 

I spent all day Saturday, tearing it all down again. Replaced the battery cable, to the starter. This time I put some heat resistant insulation on the cable. Pair more attention how I ran it. When I got all done I didn't like how the headers collector attached to the exhaust pipe. So today I took it to my local shop and had some new gaskets and the pipes aligned better. The wife used to drive this car all the time. Now, she said she is afraid of getting stranded in it. So I still may sell it. Right now it runs and starts and all the good stuff. I'm still frustrated but less so.

 

Getting stranded in your classic car is a great way to meet new people, right? LOL

 

At least you got it fixed. If you decide to sell it later you can get top dollar for it.