jensenracing77

I have hauled more cars than I can count but they were all cars that did not matter if I scuffed the frame. With my W-30 frame powdercoated I fear chipping the holes in the frame when I strap it down. What do you use and how do you strap them down if you are worried about scuffing the frame?

Paladin31

when I brought my W30 home I used the wheel 'cradle' style straps and used the 2" nylon ratchets, made chokers out straps, put 'sleeves' over any possible friction point (like the axle tube for instance) with movers pads. No problems on a 500 mile jaunt thru the Allegheny mountains.
Brett

TK-65

Straps around the rear end and front A arms. Both ends hooked into the trailer.

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starfire

Don't trailer it, drive it.

jensenracing77

lol, I would but I have to take my chassis to the body shop to set the body on it. At some point I will be taking it to Colorado to have the stripes put on. That is to far for me to want to drive it.

Boldsmobile

i do the same as TK.

joe_padavano

If you're really worried about the paint on the frame, get the tiedowns that go over the tires.

Run to Rund

You can use loops welded to the front bumper brackets, or bolted to the bracket to frame bolts. You can make up loops that are bolted to the rear of the frame using factory trailer hitch holes. Then you attach the straps that have integral latch hooks that won't fall out even if you get a flat tire and the car starts to move around.

joe_padavano

These ideas work for a race car, but are problematic for a paint-dab-and-chalk-mark restoration. Any welded tabs or loops are obviously non-factory and bolting tabs to the frame defeats the purpose of not scratching the frame.

As for a flat tire, is this really a credible failure while the car is on the trailer? You aren't exactly going to run over a nail or have a blowout. In my experience, either the tires are already flat when you're putting the car on the trailer, or the leak is so slow as to not be an issue for tire-based tie-downs. Heck, my bladder limit is much shorter than the practical leak-down rate on a tire, and I always check the straps when I stop.

halfmoontrail

X2. Harbor Freight carries them. I use 2 on rear wheels and a comealong for the front, but you could use 4 bonnet straps and be done.
Steve

Oldsguy

Made me laugh! and only oldguys like us would appreciate that.

oldcutlass

And my fly and belt...

Lonestar

This company has been around forever and offers every viable solution for securing a vehicle in/on a trailer.

www.macscustomtiedowns.com

davebw31

TK-65 I would never attach my rear tie downs like that. At that angle you have decreased the "breaking rating" in half. The rating of "breaking strength' is made at 180* from attachment point to attachment point in a straight line. The chance of the rear of the car shifting is minimal compared to the forces from a front end collision.


I have over 300,000 miles towing. Been there done that on such an accident on a way to a national event and another one as I was stopped to make a LH turn in to a local drag strip and hit from behind. I had 5,000 lb. break rating straps and in the front end accident the car came off the trailer and landed in the back window of my tow vehicle. I contacted a manufacturer and he stated you double the weight of the vehicle. My race car weighted 3250 #s so I should have been using ones rated over 6500 #s. The rear end one was no big deal as a car hit the trailer and not the car.


To the point, I use strap covers for rear axle to cut down chaffing on the tubes and straps themselves and very short adjustable straps rated at 5,000 lb. breaking strength at the front with "D rings" at both ends passed through the lower control arm at the front A arm mount to frame bracket. The D rings are then attached to the hook of the strap and the other end of the strap to D rings bolted to steel 3/16 thick plates that are welded to the frame/cross rails. I only use 5,000 rating straps at the front. The rears are 10,000 lb. rating. The front floor D rings are rated at 10,000 lbs. breaking strength, because they do not make 5,000 lb. ones. All hardware is grade 8.

starfire

Whoa, even more fun!

Lil Sis

Ditto...

TK-65

What angle are you talking about. The straps are in a straight line from the trailer to the rear end. There is no angle.

davebw31

That set up would be OK if you were to be hit from either side, however only one strap would be keeping the car from moving. Thus making the system you have not very efficient. Being hit from the side has a very low percentage. A front end would be the highest and rear end type next.


The angles I am stating have to do with from the trailer attachment point to the attachment point on the vehicle. Your set up would be correct if you went from the trailer in a straight line to the vehicle attachment point. Therefore by using the rear axle assembly as you have, the straps should be left and right of the center section. IE the strap would be 90* perpendicular to the axle in a straight line.


I also noticed that your trailer attachment points are to far apart. With the car centered on the trailer the rear attachment point should be "inside" the towed vehicles frame rails, so you can use the frame, suspension, or axle tubes and follow tie down manufacturers recommendations.

davebw31

Guess you still do not understand what I am saying or you miss the 90* perpendicular to the attachment point. You need to re-read my post. Case in point "your LH strap needs to be on the LH side and your RH strap on the RH side of the vehicle in a straight line and 90* to the axle".