HOW TO ATTACH BODY TRIM MOULDING
#1
HOW TO ATTACH BODY TRIM MOULDING
Hello to all. I recently purchased several pieces of exterior trim mouldings. These are the stainless steel pieces that go along the front fender all the way down the side of the car to the rear fender (on both sides). They are typically attached by screwing nuts onto the studs. However, in this case, the studs are very worn. I do not think that nuts will be able to attach to the studs.
Has anyone ever ran across this type of problem? If so, how can these pieces be installed on the car without the studs? Attached to this posting is a picture of an example of the missing studs. They are circled in red. Any, and all, advise will be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks Guys and Gals
Has anyone ever ran across this type of problem? If so, how can these pieces be installed on the car without the studs? Attached to this posting is a picture of an example of the missing studs. They are circled in red. Any, and all, advise will be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks Guys and Gals
#2
I had that problem with my 71 cutlass supreme. I cut the stud and ground it flat. I then drilled a shallow hole to insert a 1/4" bolt with the head cut off. I used a dab of body panel epoxy adhesive to secure and so far so good. Those pieces are hard to find with the studs still intact. It is very common to have them broken off. Good luck.
Last edited by scrappie; May 14th, 2009 at 03:09 AM.
#4
Ouch! There are some very good structural epoxy adhesives (NOT the stuff from Home Depot!). Try McMaster Carr. I would grind the stump down flat and epoxy on a bolt. Be sure everything is COMPLETELY clean before bonding. Wipe down with lacquer thinner first.
#6
Certainly the best idea for getting around a knotty problem. However, all the chrome plating around the area needs to be lightly ground off well enough to prevent the plating's eventual separation from the base metal subsequently releasing the epoxy and thus the bolt.
Don't you just love plated pot metal and cast aluminum trim!
![Frown](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#8
Certainly the best idea for getting around a knotty problem. However, all the chrome plating around the area needs to be lightly ground off well enough to prevent the plating's eventual separation from the base metal subsequently releasing the epoxy and thus the bolt.
#9
Neither does anyone else.
I have a large piece that belongs on my '56 Cadillac Eldorado that has pitted badly enough I'm considering using a silicone mold to make a plastic duplicate and chrome plate that. Repairing pits in cast pot metal is an absolute bear if done right which requires bringing the whole piece up to at least 400 degrees before filling in drilled out pits with aluminum alloy brazing rod. Tedious!
Yeah, I know some do a heavy brass plating and then grind off excess, but if there is a lot of detail in the piece that ain't no fun either.
I have a large piece that belongs on my '56 Cadillac Eldorado that has pitted badly enough I'm considering using a silicone mold to make a plastic duplicate and chrome plate that. Repairing pits in cast pot metal is an absolute bear if done right which requires bringing the whole piece up to at least 400 degrees before filling in drilled out pits with aluminum alloy brazing rod. Tedious!
Yeah, I know some do a heavy brass plating and then grind off excess, but if there is a lot of detail in the piece that ain't no fun either.
Last edited by Texascarnut; May 14th, 2009 at 03:38 PM.
#10
If you strip the casting and copper plate it you can use silver soldier to fill the pit marks and then replate in copper,this method doesn't require alot of heat and after you triple plate the piece it will look brand new and you will want to do every piece on your car to make it look perfect.
Steve
Steve
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