Coil is DOA

 

If you have no light on the high voltage lead with a timing light yet the test light flashes on the negative side of the coil (with the key on), then replace the coil. Be aware the car may start doing this. Just a note, those points look to be pretty burnt in the picture.

 

Post #14 you stated:
I'm not clear what the last part of your sentence references: "old coil theres a terminal still attached, looks like I pulled wire from idk", more importantly you stated "...coil (its new)..."

There are several reasons an IGN coil can go bad:
Key left in the ON/START position for an extended period of time (weeks, months, years)...sometimes typical of a car which has been sitting for an extended period of time;
IGN coil wire has developed cracks, abrasions, moisture intrusion, etc. - resistance increases and no spark or low quality spark develops;
Rotor button (on top) has corroded/cracked;
Rotor leading edge contact points corroded/cracked;
Distributor cap button (on top) has corroded/cracked;
Distributor cap contact points corroded/cracked;
Spark plug wires w/ cracks, abrasions, moisture intrusion, etc.;
Spark plugs cracked/corroded, incorrect gap.

Each of the above scenarios can individually or in combination cause an overwhelming increase in resistance to the ignition system. Since it's unclear exactly what is the current state of each, a solid recommendation would be to replace each of the following on a 56 year old vehicle:

Distributor cap
Condenser
Rotor
Ignition Coil Wire
Spark Plug Wires
Contact Points
Spark Plugs

Clean each of the wire terminal ends and points of contact where wires attach inside the distributor with a wire brush &/or sandpaper.
Voltage = Amps x Resistance
As Resistance increases there will exist a far greater demand to increase amperage to provide the same amount of voltage. This demand for an increase in amperage can bring a new ignition coil to its knees in short order if the resistance issues are not addressed.

 

As Eric pointed out, the points appear worn out - best recommendation is to replace each of the components identified above.

 

How to replace set points please

 

R&R of contact points is contained in the CSM identified in your thread Help me identify my 64 Oldsmobile 98 specifically Post8
I neither own a 1964 98 nor do I own the 1964 CSM. Search is your friend, also. You'll have to review which threads/posts are pertinent.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...archid=6750317

 

This will give you an idea in principle.

 

You stated ".......good for you.
The condenser should be replaced, as well. I am not sure if the ignition condenser resides outside (external to) the distributor or inside the distributor on your vehicle. Note in the video Eric posted they are attempting to nudge the distributor shaft so as to align the contact points "rubbing block" at the top (highest point) of one of eight "lobes" on the distributor shaft (one lobe per cylinder = 8 lobes/8 cylinders). You adjust the contact points gap when the rubbing block is on the highest point of a lobe - it doesn't matter which lobe. The contact points open at the top of each lobe and close in between the lobes. The voltage supplied from the ignition coil to the distributor (via the ignition coil wire) is supplied in "bursts" of electrical voltage as the contact points open & close. This opening and closing of the contact points induces the ignition coil electromagnetic field to collapse. The collapsing magnetic field induces voltage in the ignition coil winding. This voltage is in the direction to keep the current flowing. The faster it collapses, the higher this voltage becomes.

The purpose of the condenser is to (1) contain/capture/absorb increased spikes of voltage so that (2) there exists an immediate stop of voltage in between each opening/closing of the contact points. I note what might be arcing of your contact points. Yes, new contact points will most likely stop arcing, but more importantly you do not want to compromise the benefits of the condenser to the ignition system - it plays a vital role and it should be replaced.

 

Yes referring to csm and video
thank you !
also replacing condenser 👍🏼

 

As I desperately looked through csm for instructions I came to 30% with points in open position. Reading a related thread I realized .016 could have been ( gap ) . Not clear came at end of night. Also I am chasing grounds at distributor, starter etc.

 

A .016 point gap results as a 30 degree dwell on a meter. What grounds are you chasing at the starter and distributor as both mechanically ground to the engine?

 

Power train starter ,engine , and battery should get me started

 

Clean ground to engine and ground to frame of engine bay and started up ty and now I get to fix brakes. I’ll have it fine tuned by a mechanic.👍🏼