I could really use your advice here. I was installing new valve cover gaskets on my 68 Cutlass S with a 350. When I removed the A/C compressor and bracket, I noticed that the fuel line from the metal line to the fuel pump is seriously rotting. The rubber is hard and flaking off. I reassembled everything, and when I went to start the car, I could see gas shooting up from the clamp on this fuel line. I just happen to have a very full tank of gas, so I am concerned about how to fix this without dumping a lot of gas.

I would like to replace the full rubber section of the fuel line, but I cannot see where the other end of line is clamped to the metal line that runs to the rear of the car. From the service manual, it looks like it should be right at the front cross member, but the rubber line seems to go into the cross member where I cannot see the clamp. I am also concerned about dumping a lot of gas if I were to disconnect it at the metal fuel line. I don't have a means of draining to the tank.

I figure I could splice in a new section of line if I just cut off the rotten section and use a small section of 3/8" pipe as a connector with hose clamps on both sides. Since the fuel pump is higher than the tank, I assume that I will not dump a lot of gas if I cut off the line closer to the fuel pump.

My questions for you:
1) Can the full rubber section of the line be replaced without draining the tank?
2) Is splicing in a short section of 3/8" fuel line a reasonable short term fix?
3) Should I just try cutting off an inch or two and reconnecting the existing line?

Thanks in advance.

 

There should also be a rubber piece between the fuel tank's outlet pipe and the hard line that runs to the front. This will be up in the void above the axle. You could put a pair of vice grips or some other type of tool to pinch off the rubber at that point. That will prevent fuel running all the way to the front of the car and dumping out while you replace the front rubber piece.

For the hard lines, there are two pieces on both the supply and return sides. The long pieces of hard line run from the rear area in front of the tank all the way up the frame rail to the area where it curves inward. At this point, there should be a short, probably 3" or 4" section of rubber connecting to another hardline that goes through the frame rail, exiting at the front of the engine cross member, where it attaches once again to rubber for the short 18" or so jump to the fuel pump. If you cannot see a hose clamp within two or three inches of the front of that engine cross member, it is possible that someone removed that piece of hard line that runs inside the cross member into the frame rail.

A few pics:
Near tank where you can pinch off the rubber to prevent fuel spilling.



At the rear of the frame/cross member. I had just re-run these lines, myself. I added the little piece of rubber (innertube) to prevent chafing, as I didn't have the correct spring clips at the time and the lines were not lining up well. The longer hard lines to the rear are to the right in this pic, with the shorter lines toward the fuel pump being on the left and entering the frame rail.


And here is where the shorter hard lines exit from the leading edge of the cross member. There should be spring clamps within an inch or three of the cross member. You can just make out a screw-type hose clamp at this location in the pic below.

 

Thank you, BackInTheGame. Those photos help a lot.

After seeing your photos, I was able to find the other end of my hose as it entered the cross member. It was just so covered in road muck that the hose clamp was not visible, but it does end just outside of the cross member.

I like the idea of clamping off the line near the back, but I am concerned about creating a second leak if that line is as bad as the one in front. The one in back has not been subjected to as much heat, of course.

If I jack up the front end a foot or so, do you think that would be enough to prevent much of a fuel spillage to replace the front line only without clamping the line somewhere?

 

Replace the whole front line, don't do a temp fix. One and done. Its a little tight there but you can get at it. You won't need to drain the tank for that line at the front cross member. Plan accordingly just in case and be prepared to catch/absorb any gas. Work quickly. You could prepare the new hose with a bolt stuffed in the pump end while you concentrate on getting the new hose on the metal tank line. Having the front of the car jacked up a bit will probably help.

I've noticed that metal line sticks out more on some cars than others. The last photo above looked just like mine, a bit recessed. I changed mine just last year but didn't have much gas in the tank. I didn't have any gas come out with front of car jacked up.

 

Thanks, don71! That is what I was thinking. I can deal with a gallon or two with a catch can, just not much more.

 

Be prepared to get gas into your armpit as you change the rubber hose. The hardest part is getting the old hose off as they tend to stick to the metal line. Work fast as stated above and you'll be fine.

 

Yes, I could see how that could happen.

 

Hey NTX, sounds like a solid, or rather fluid (doh!) , plan is coming together! Right on!

 

Thanks, everyone!

I jacked the car up as high as I could in front and removed the fuel pump side of the rotten fuel line pointing it to a catch can, and no gas came out. I lowered the end of the line below the level of the metal fuel line and still got nothing. This was a good sign.

Once I got under the car and started to remove the other end of the fuel line where it entered the cross member, the line disintegrated in my hands. I am lucky this wasn't leaking the whole time. I got the remnants of the rotten fuel line off and installed the new line without a drop of gasoline lost.

Again, thank you all for the sound advice. This is why I love this forum. There are so many good people here to help me from doing something stupid and / or dangerous, well... at least in regards to my fixing my car.

 

Awesome!