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IU think I'm pretty close on the decode, but there are others on the site, way lots better than me.
If I read this sideways correctly you have a 1972 Cutlass "S" hardtop coupe. From the partial build sheet this is what I came up with:
B80 bright roof drip moldings
B81 is a deleted item, not sure what it is.
B93 bright door edge moldings
B94 I couldn't find anything on it.
B96 bright wheel opening molding
C08 Vinyl Top
C24 I couldn't find anything on it
C60 four seasons air conditioning
M40 is the Turbo 400 automatic transmission
B on trim is a black vinyl top
53 would be Saturn gold for the exterior color
M29 is the 4-4-2 appearance package option code. W30 and W31 are the giddy up go option packages.
IU think I'm pretty close on the decode, but there are others on the site, way lots better than me.
If I read this sideways correctly you have a 1972 Cutlass "S" hardtop coupe. From the partial build sheet this is what I came up with:
B80 bright roof drip moldings
B81 is a deleted item, not sure what it is.
B93 bright door edge moldings
B94 I couldn't find anything on it.
B96 bright wheel opening molding
C08 Vinyl Top
C24 I couldn't find anything on it
C60 four seasons air conditioning
M40 is the Turbo 400 automatic transmission
B on trim is a black vinyl top
53 would be Saturn gold for the exterior color
M29 is the 4-4-2 appearance package option code. W30 and W31 are the giddy up go option packages.
Hope this helps you out. mike
thanks mike... tryin to prove that its a 442 and that b94 option is kinda my last avenue... also where do you see the turbo 400 option?
IU think I'm pretty close on the decode, but there are others on the site, way lots better than me.
If I read this sideways correctly you have a 1972 Cutlass "S" hardtop coupe. From the partial build sheet this is what I came up with:
B80 bright roof drip moldings
B81 is a deleted item, not sure what it is.
B93 bright door edge moldings
B94 I couldn't find anything on it.
B96 bright wheel opening molding
C08 Vinyl Top
C24 I couldn't find anything on it
C60 four seasons air conditioning
M40 is the Turbo 400 automatic transmission
B on trim is a black vinyl top
53 would be Saturn gold for the exterior color
M29 is the 4-4-2 appearance package option code. W30 and W31 are the giddy up go option packages.
Kurt S. sent me this copy of a build sheet with that code listed on it.
i am trying to figure out if this is a 442 or not... this is the only part of a build sheet ive come across so far... it has the boxed rear arms, rear sway bar, bigger front sway bar, i think... lol... my uncle bought this car from the original owner who swears it to be a real 442, but no proof
i am trying to figure out if this is a 442 or not... this is the only part of a build sheet ive come across so far... it has the boxed rear arms, rear sway bar, bigger front sway bar, i think... lol... my uncle bought this car from the original owner who swears it to be a real 442, but no proof
DOH! I was looking for it after B93, as usually they are printed in order.
I guess that's pretty good confirmation, then. As I'm sure you know, 1972 cars are easiest to clone, however this is pretty conclusive, especially when taken with the other equipment on the car.
DOH! I was looking for it after B93, as usually they are printed in order.
I guess that's pretty good confirmation, then. As I'm sure you know, 1972 cars are easiest to clone, however this is pretty conclusive, especially when taken with the other equipment on the car.
are you talkin about my build sheet or kurts posted one
thanks mike... tryin to prove that its a 442 and that b94 option is kinda my last avenue... also where do you see the turbo 400 option?
B442Adams, as age catches up, sometimes you get a little cross eyed reading for any length of time. I wasn't positive on the transmission on your car, but had seen the M40, on the other build sheet, and thinking it was yours included it in my comments. The vast majority of 70-72 4-4-2 models I have seen were automatic transmission cars. I'm not a production number guru, so don't have any idea as to how many were built with the 3 speed or 4 speed manual transmission.
Well, I would say that it is a 442, because you can't have B94 without W29 having been chosen on the order form. According to Kurt, asterisk * in front of a code, in your case *B94 indicates that it is part of an option package. Old Car Brochures shows that in the W29 option by telling us what is included in the W29 (442) package, which includes the 442 numerals. Can't have one with out the other..the numbers anyways, as other items such as the FE2 suspension were available on other Cutlasses.
Well, I would say that it is a 442, because you can't have B94 without W29 having been chosen on the order form. According to Kurt, asterisk * in front of a code, in your case *B94 indicates that it is part of an option package. Old Car Brochures shows that in the W29 option by telling us what is included in the W29 (442) package, which includes the 442 numerals. Can't have one with out the other..the numbers anyways, as other items such as the FE2 suspension were available on other Cutlasses.
thanks... i didnt know what the asterick meant... someone on another site said in 72 it will show all the option codes that are associated with the w29 package
Also... since my vin is not on that part of the build sheet, is there any other way to tie that sheet to my car... although i did find that under the back seat, and i know its original to the car, there is always someone to say otherwise
If the body number on the build sheet matches the one on the cowl tag, you should be good. On your sheet, right above the options list is the number 395756, I think that is the body number, if anyone can confirm it, that would help.
If the body number on the build sheet matches the one on the cowl tag, you should be good. On your sheet, right above the options list is the number 395756, I think that is the body number, if anyone can confirm it, that would help.
True, but on your sheet, the number that I referenced may not be the body number due to it's location on the sheet, which is why I asked for input from others. Can you find 56697 anywhere on your build sheet? I think it's usually located at the upper left or upper right corner of the sheet.
Last edited by 1969w3155; Aug 15, 2017 at 10:07 AM.
True, but on your sheet, the number that I referenced may not be the body number due to it's location on the sheet, which is why I asked for input from others. Can you find 56697 anywhere on your build sheet? I think it's usually located at the upper left or upper right corner of the sheet.
This is what a complete build sheet from Freemont looks like. I have seen this car and it matches the build exactly. As you can see, the body number is in Box 8 and the full VIN will be in box 9
The numbers that Dan is describing were likely carryover information from Fisher Body Works (Freemont) that mean something to the assembly workers, but no one I know of has ever been able to ascertain what.
Here's another (1970 Fremont) Build sheet that is completely intact. You can see the VIN and the 2 series of production numbers in box 9. I have a couple of cowl tags from boneyard CS models out of Freemont and they both have that series of number sequences. I suspect it was to create an audit trail for production somehow.
Mine is hog ringed under the rear seat... only places i havent check yet are inside front bench, rear panel at speakers, inside door panels, and above gas tank... from what ive read before, it prolly isnt gonna be anywhere else beings its a framington car... smh
do all the build sheets look alike? Mine is a framington mass car
Basically yes, they look alike. There's a thread right now with raging controversy about a fabled Lansing Build Sheet. Personally I think it's bogus, and I've compared at least 10 known 442 build sheets to it hoping to prove consistency, but no dice. No matter what factory, the build sheets follow the identical process to list the components going through final assembly, and the rpo (Regular Production Options) for that car using the same terminology.
Just about every plant except Lansing left build sheets in the cars. The most common place was on top of the gas tank (Arlington, Framingham, Freemont). That's a lot of work to get the build sheet if it's there.
Dan - Remember Sandy? She found Teepos build sheet under the package tray. She didn't try to take it out though because she was afraid of damaging it. I wonder whatever happened to Teepo....
Basically yes, they look alike. There's a thread right now with raging controversy about a fabled Lansing Build Sheet. Personally I think it's bogus, and I've compared at least 10 known 442 build sheets to it hoping to prove consistency, but no dice. No matter what factory, the build sheets follow the identical process to list the components going through final assembly, and the rpo (Regular Production Options) for that car using the same terminology.
Just about every plant except Lansing left build sheets in the cars. The most common place was on top of the gas tank (Arlington, Framingham, Freemont). That's a lot of work to get the build sheet if it's there.
Dan - Remember Sandy? She found Teepos build sheet under the package tray. She didn't try to take it out though because she was afraid of damaging it. I wonder whatever happened to Teepo....
thanks for the info... guess ill have to suck it up and check above the tank... lol
Dan - Remember Sandy? She found Teepos build sheet under the package tray. She didn't try to take it out though because she was afraid of damaging it. I wonder whatever happened to Teepo....
Yes I do, she had a pic of it, but was afraid of tearing it if she attempted to get it out. I don't think any of us on TGMT know what happened to it.
thanks for the info... guess ill have to suck it up and check above the tank... lol
If you decide that, you might as well replace all the rubber lines that connect the fuel tank to the cannister and fuel lines. they are 5/16" and 3/8". You'll notice some have clamps and some don't. That's the way they were built so document what you have with pictures before you undo everything. The cannister lines IIRC don't have clamps, but all the connections to the fuel tank have a small 3/8" spring clamp holding them. You'll also need to disconnect the ground wire (black IIRC) from the chassis and the sender wire (Tan) that goes up through the trunk pan.
Drain the tank before dropping it. You might end up replacing the tanks strap bolts as they can get pretty nasty after all this time, and hard to undo. The tank slides down and forward because of the spout going through the bumper.
I found that having the car up at least 18" to get to the tank worked well. Gee, what a lot of work to possibly find a build sheet.