oldsmobilty

Looking for pros and cons on using a HEI distributor or points. Almost everyone gets rid of points for HEI. My points distributor is damaged and I have another that will work and a HEI. I also have a dwell meter. Just looking for thoughts and preferences, why or why not

allyolds68

I use good old fashioned points and have had zero problems

anthonyP

I still like the points & condenser, but a good compromise is a Pertronix pointless type system, so that the stock distributer can still be utilized.

MDchanic

Almost everyone? Really? Oh my.

All depends on your priorities.

If you have an original engine that is set up and tuned well, then I would recommend sticking with what works, as centrifugal and vacuum advance will be different with the HEI than they were with the original distributor.

If you have a modified engine with an RPM range close to stock, than I would say to do whatever you want to - the HEI won't make any performance difference, and it may be more reliable or may completely strand you with a sudden unpredictable failure.

If you have an engine that is set up to go over the roughly 4,500 to 5,000 RPM that the stock motors were built for, then I would recommend some sort of electronic ignition system, as the points system isn't designed for that, and modifications to "force" it to comply (such as heavy-spring Corvette points) will introduce other problems and complexities.

What's wrong with your distributor, anyway?

- Eric

oldsmobilty

I bought the car needing a distributor. When I wrote almost everyone I guess I was referring to those that have never dealt with points, mostly an age thing.

oldsmobilty

Thanks for the info everyone.

MDchanic

Kids today...

Guess you've never seen a Model T spark coil, then.

- Eric

oldstata

I not that old but have had both my 72 cutlass had points with no problem with in the 17 years it was in the family and I can remember a few times walking with my dad because the truck left us walking with the hei

I changed out my points to hei because I didn't want to adjust points I could never get it right I always had to call my uncle to fine tune it

oldsmobilty

If I have seen one I didn't know what it was. Ha ha.
I am somewhat familiar with points and condensor. My late uncle made sure I knew all about points and left me a nice dwell meter. Guys my age (33) think I'm old school cause I keep points in my cars. I just wasn't sure if HEI was "better".

MDchanic

Like i said, depends on configuration and use.

If the motor is stock, and the points are adjusted correctly, you are unlikely to notice any improvement in starting, running, or power.

If the motor demands more than the points can give, or if you are not going to check them every 5,000 miles, then an electronic system is the way you should go.

Either one can fail, but, unless you carry a whole spare HEI outfit in the trunk, an HEI failure will usually strand you far more decisively.

- Eric

redoldsman

I am going to vote HEI. I have had one in my Cutlass for 20 years that I bought out of a junkyard. Quicker starting and longer plug life are good reasons. However, points worked for a lot of years. The Pertronix conversion is excellent and is the way I would go.

Oldsmaniac

A lot of stock air cleaners will not fit with an HEI dist. Some aftermarket intakes will not clear with HEI. HEI allows for hotter spark/wider plug gaps but requires heavier spark plug wires. I myself like HEI but with its drawbacks for fit I use points. When things are right they work just fine.

oldcutlass

There are pluses for both points and electronic. A points distributor requires about 15 minutes worth of tune twice a year. You reset your dwell to 30 degrees, reset your timing, and your done. About every 24k miles you replace your points, condenser, cap and rotor, pretty simple. You can adjust your dwell to gain a hotter spark and it's good to around 6000+ rpm depending on what points your use. These stock do not allow for a lot of initial advance for performance engines without mods. They have long advance curves. Wires need to be 7mm and your can use solid core wires.

An HEI requires basically no maintenance until it fails, cap and rotor around the same 24k miles. The HEI can be set up for about to about 7500 rpm, but most are good to 5500. These stock allow for a lot of initial advance with short advance curves. Wires must be at least 8mm spiral type wires, not recommended to use solid core wires.

I used to like points only, but in the last few years have played with a lot of electronic distributors and have grown to like them also. I've found the reliability a lot better in recent years.

So bottom line stock the HEI produces a hotter spark. It's a little more expensive to fix and can be a bit problematic when it does fail. However you will not really feel anymore performance increase.

joe_padavano

The reality is that when the points are new, there's no functional difference between points and an electronic distributor. The difference comes after the points start to pit. If you constantly keep your car tuned properly, points work fine. If you prefer to simply turn the key and go, use electronic.

Bluevista

Unless you have a dual point distributor points float is the biggest reason to get rid of them.

I've had a Mallory Unilite pointless conversion on my '68 GTO for almost 20 years and it's never missed a beat.
The Mallory uses the stock wiring, you don't need to run a 12 volt when the key is in the run position wire to it like the Pertronix. With the The Mallory you can leave the key on run with the engine stopped without blowing out the unit too.
But to each their own, they're priced almost the same.

MDchanic

Pointless ignition pickups are also made by Crane and at least one other company whose name I forget.

They all are generally reviewed favorably.

I have a Crane unit in my car, which was installed by the PO. It has all of the features that BlueVista describes and a rev limiter.
I left it in because it works fine, and if something works, I don't mess with it, but I carry a set of points and a condenser in the glove compartment.

- Eric

joe_padavano

And if you regularly spin your motor to 7,000 RPM, that's a concern. If, on the other hand, your BBO rarely sees the high side of 5,000 RPM, you're not going to float the points.

Bernhard

Never had a problem with points at 5500 rpm. We just ran blue streak or ac heavy duty points. I don't remember the original application for the points. Big thing with points is you can not leave the key in the on/run position with out the engine running or you will kill the points and if you use a aftermarket coil you may have to install a ballast resister. This is to drop the voltage from the coil to the points so as not to fry the points some stock coils have this built into the coil. I like points and may use them on my next build or stock dist with conversion. I also like the vintage look of the stock distributor.

MDchanic

All GM cars, at least back through the fifties, used ballast resistors, and since the early sixties had the resistance wire built in to the wiring harness.
None of these cars had a resistor built into the coil, and those coils that do not need resistors have inherently greater internal resistance, not separate internal resistors.

- Eric