front end 1969
August 5th, 2011, 04:09 AM
#3
Oldsdruid
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southside Vajenya
Posts: 10,550
Undoubtedly. I can about promise most modern alignment machines do NOT have these specs programmed into their computers, and you need to have the specs available to the alignment guy.
The ones that do, you still have to watch close. I had the wagon in a couple years ago and when they gave me the printout, they had used specs for a Cutlass Cruiser instead of Custom Cruiser. And back on the rack it went.
Speaking of which, am I the only one it drives up the wall if the vehicle comes off the alignment rack and the steering wheel spokes are off? They did that with the truck last month when they aligned it after the tire-slashing. Nearly 30 degrees off horizontal, and right in the spot where it cancels the turn signal. I'm beginning to believe some alignment "mechanics" do not understand how to set toe.
The ones that do, you still have to watch close. I had the wagon in a couple years ago and when they gave me the printout, they had used specs for a Cutlass Cruiser instead of Custom Cruiser. And back on the rack it went.
Speaking of which, am I the only one it drives up the wall if the vehicle comes off the alignment rack and the steering wheel spokes are off? They did that with the truck last month when they aligned it after the tire-slashing. Nearly 30 degrees off horizontal, and right in the spot where it cancels the turn signal. I'm beginning to believe some alignment "mechanics" do not understand how to set toe.
August 5th, 2011, 11:09 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: moses lake wa
Posts: 173
So what are the right specs fora 1969 cutlass s ? I tryed to print that page and it will not let me . if someone has the specs could you post them that way i can show the alignmant guy thank you.
August 5th, 2011, 11:56 PM
#5
Ben
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 1,827
the stock specs suck. Designed for short & skinny tires, designed to make it easy for old ladies to turn the wheel & park, NOT for fat radial trires going around corners.
When i did mine last year, i used a fast-trax kit and did it myself in the driveway.
My final specs were -1camber +1 1/4 caster toe in was -1/8 (-1/16 each side)
big ole stack of shims in each rear position & 1 tiny shim in the front spot.
Those are almost the opposite of the stock specs, which has positive camber & nagative caster, but they came from people i trust.
After putting about ~3k miles on it since the rebuild, my tires still look great- so I feel like i did pretty good.
Wish i could have gotten a little more caster into it since that is what really helps the road feel of the steering, but the stock arms just don't allow much.
When i did mine last year, i used a fast-trax kit and did it myself in the driveway.
My final specs were -1camber +1 1/4 caster toe in was -1/8 (-1/16 each side)
big ole stack of shims in each rear position & 1 tiny shim in the front spot.
Those are almost the opposite of the stock specs, which has positive camber & nagative caster, but they came from people i trust.
After putting about ~3k miles on it since the rebuild, my tires still look great- so I feel like i did pretty good.
Wish i could have gotten a little more caster into it since that is what really helps the road feel of the steering, but the stock arms just don't allow much.
August 6th, 2011, 03:55 AM
#6
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
It's not a page.
It's the relavent chapter from the Chassis Service Manual, with all the information you need
(unless you choose to go with Rambow's numbers, which sound good to me).
I just clicked the link and it loaded up fine.
- Eric
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