The A/C on my 65 Starfire isn't blowing cold which could be due to any number of reasons. I found an NOS Frigidaire compressor for sale (without pulley) and the seller claims that it is correct for 1961-71 Buick-Cadillac-Chevy-Olds-Pontiac (1964-71 Oldsmobile except Toronado).

While I haven't taken my car to have the problem diagnosed, I'm thinking that it might be worth purchasing the item ($400 shipped) as a precautionary measure -- can't be many NOS units around. At least, that my logic!

I've attached some photos...is this a reasonable price? Is this correct for my car (Part No. 5910495)?

Thanks in advance -- Merry Christmas!

KB

 

I would not go with the NOS one myself. It very well may be just fine but the seal is old and dry from so may years of storage. I would send your compressor off to be rebuilt for less money than this NOS unit costs. I just had one rebuilt by Classic Auto Air and was less than this.

 

X2 on the seal. I was advised by Classic Auto Air to wait until I was ready to hook up and charge the A/C before buying the compressor on a Pontiac I am rebuilding. That way, I would have as new a seal as possible and minimize the chance of it leaking.

 

you guys are as they say"putting the cart before the horse"first off pull the cap off one of the schrader valves and see if it has freon in it.if so start the engine and turn the a/c on see if the compressor kicks in.if not more then likely it's just low.i myself would save the 400 bucks for other things

 

Before buying a new/rebuilt compressor, take a look at the POA valve. These things are susceptible to debris and moisture and won't let the refrigerant to pass through. Here's a pic showing the frosting of the line to the POA but not out of the POA. If you find the POA is the culprit than I have a freshly rebuilt one for sale.

Chris

 

Opposite.

The frosting is not on the part that goes into the POA, it's on the part that goes out.



The liquid freon flows into the evaporator through the expansion valve, after which it is supposed to vaporize, absorbing heat, but in this case, it looks like the POA was stuck too far closed, and the pressure in the evaporator was therefore too high, so the freon remained mostly in liquid form until it got to the opening in the POA valve, where it expanded and vaporized immediately after the POA, in the vacuum conditions of the compressor suction hose.

- Eric

 

I agree that you should have it checked out to see first what the problem is. You may be surprised how much dirt is in the evaporator. The past three years I have pulled apart several A/C systems and I now believe most all of them need a complete overhaul by now. Taken apart, cleaned out, and POA checked at minimum.

 

Could you please give more details on this "dirt". The air conditioning is a closed system, and I am wondering where this "dirt" is coming from. If you are referring to the accumulation of dirt on the evaporator fins, I can't agree more. After 40 or 50 years of use, I have seen many evaporator coils that are in dire need of being cleaned, to maintain the efficiency of the units. It has always been my philosophy, that if the system is working properly, then basic cleaning maintenance is all that is needed, and not to disturb the refrigerant lines, if at all possible. I recently pulled an engine from a car that has been sitting for over 20 years, and prior to the engine removal, I started the engine to check its mechanical condition. I also tried the air conditioner, and it blew cold air, with the ambient temperature in the high 80's. I pulled the compressor off the engine, and set it to the side, so I wouldn't disturb the rubber hoses. Ideally, an air conditioning system should be run ever couple of weeks to keep the refrigeration gas and oil to keep the seals lubricated. It has always been a mystery why some systems that have never been opened, will develop seal leaks, and others will not. One thing is certain, that today, if you are going to open a system for any service, you should have all the hoses replaced with modern barrier hose, to make sure that when you put the system back together, you will not have any hose problems associated from old age. I prefer to use R12, and the correct Delco 425 viscosity oil is still available from Amazon. I always have the receiver drier rebuilt by Classic Air in Tampa Florida, as well as having them check and recondition the expansion valve. I believe in using original parts as often as possible, and Classic Air has never let me down by doing quality work consistently for over 20 years.

 

Yes, On the coil fins is what I am talking about. The boxes by now are full of all sorts of debris. Even if kept inside they likely need cleaned if never been done.

 

This is what I use to clean the coils. It is a 20 ounce can, and if you buy a couple on eBay, they are very reasonably priced, and economical to use.