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Old May 21st, 2012, 01:38 PM
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Thumbs up Free Access to Chilton Manuals Online

This is a link to the free access to the on-line Chilton Manuals. The site asks for your Michigan DL or ID, but it will accept any letter followed by 12 digits. An example would be F123456789123. Thank you Michigan!

It is a pretty good reference source, especially with wiring diagrams and the like and will even let you print some stuff as well.

The year range is from 1940 to 2010 with a pretty good selection of makes to choose from.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 01:49 PM
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That's handy!
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Old May 21st, 2012, 01:54 PM
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No doubt I went the other day to purchase one for my daughter's 2000 Crapalier and the dern things were $27.00 ea. This will definitely be saved as one of my bookmarks! Enjoy
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Old May 21st, 2012, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by GAOldsman
No doubt I went the other day to purchase one for my daughter's 2000 Crapalier and the dern things were $27.00 ea. This will definitely be saved as one of my bookmarks! Enjoy
Crapalier! Very nice! And accurate. I've got a Pontiac Crapfire that won't start even though I've changed everything imaginable on it.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 02:08 PM
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Are you able to roll it over at all?
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Old May 21st, 2012, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by GAOldsman
Are you able to roll it over at all?
Yeah it rolls over and chugs a little bit like it's going to start and then nothing. Changed the fuel pump, coil packs, plugs and wires, the crank sensor.........I forget what else I changed????

I know it's not internal. It's something like a broken ground or something like that. It's definitely electrical. I towed it up to the local garage and see if he can do anything with it because he has the code reading computer.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 02:43 PM
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Sounds like it could be fuel filter or bad gas, but I suppose you changed it with the pump? If it was electrical it probably would either start or not. The trouble I had with my daughters was in the bulkhead where the two harnesses connected together and there is a 7mm bolt that secures them together. Well the bolt had worked it's way out and would run fine until you hit a bump and then nothing, no dash lights, no rolling over and would die in the middle of the road This bulkhead is behind the fresh air box towards the firewall. But I don't think this is your issue. I've heard of gauge clusters going out on them and I believe there is a recall on the ignition switch and harness depending on the VIN. You can create an account with GM here
and check to see if there is an active one on your car.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by GAOldsman
Sounds like it could be fuel filter or bad gas, but I suppose you changed it with the pump? If it was electrical it probably would either start or not. The trouble I had with my daughters was in the bulkhead where the two harnesses connected together and there is a 7mm bolt that secures them together. Well the bolt had worked it's way out and would run fine until you hit a bump and then nothing, no dash lights, no rolling over and would die in the middle of the road This bulkhead is behind the fresh air box towards the firewall. But I don't think this is your issue. I've heard of gauge clusters going out on them and I believe there is a recall on the ignition switch and harness depending on the VIN. You can create an account with GM here
and check to see if there is an active one on your car.
Yeah....good idea. I'll be checking that out for sure.

I've been told about those problems like your daughter's car. That's the first thing everyone mentions when I talk about mine. This is what happened. I left work early because I had a doctor's appointment. I started the car, which always ran fine by the way, and it ran normal for about a minute then it sputtered, so I gave it a little more gas and it revved up a little.......then it died. And hasn't started since. That was the week before Christmas 2011. I've messed with it off and on, but with no luck. It's funny to think a car with 150,000 km would be having problems like this.

My '97 Ford Probe GTS has twice as many km and never has to be worked on.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 02:59 PM
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Well I hope you figure out what's wrong with it, been there, done that and I definitely don't care to work on that Crapalier for awhile. LOL and knock on wood The Phord Probes ran well cause they had the Mazda engines in em.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 03:16 PM
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Anti-theift system can cause the same characteristics.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by GAOldsman
Well I hope you figure out what's wrong with it, been there, done that and I definitely don't care to work on that Crapalier for awhile. LOL and knock on wood The Phord Probes ran well cause they had the Mazda engines in em.
My friend is a good mechanic. He's just a little slow getting things done. It'll probably late summer before I get it back.

And yes....I did know the Probe had a Mazda engine in it. I call it my little Fazda.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by OLDSRALLYE350
Anti-theift system can cause the same characteristics.
That's probably what it is. The anti theft light is on in the dash. Everyone I've asked doesn't seem to know how to undo it. My friend the mechanic will know whenever he gets around to working on it.

The funny thing is, if this were happening to my 71 Olds, I'd know just what to look for. But ironically, that never fails. Always runs like a top.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by OLDSRALLYE350
Anti-theift system can cause the same characteristics.
Yep that's right, I forgot about that. My other Daughter has an '03 Grand Am and the passlock system kept acting up, so ultimately we had to change the ignition and lock cylinder in it.

Olds_71_442 is the security light flashing when you try start it? If so turn the key to the "on" position for ten minutes (not start and don't try to start) This will reset the computer (relearn key resistance) IIRC then after ten minutes in the "on" the security light should go out and therefore be good to go. Then turn the key to the "off" position and take the key out of the ignition and then it should start up after that. IF that is your problem, you may want to get your ignition switch changed out because it WILL happen again if you don't.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by GAOldsman
Yep that's right, I forgot about that. My other Daughter has an '03 Grand Am and the passlock system kept acting up, so ultimately we had to change the ignition and lock cylinder in it.

Olds_71_442 is the security light flashing when you try start it? If so turn the key to the "on" position for ten minutes (not start and don't try to start) This will reset the computer (relearn key resistance) IIRC then after ten minutes in the "on" the security light should go out and therefore be good to go. Then turn the key to the "off" position and take the key out of the ignition and then it should start up after that. IF that is your problem, you may want to get your ignition switch changed out because it WILL happen again if you don't.
I did what you said (in the past) and it didn't work. But......I did everything except take the key out of the ignition. I was just going by what someone else told me and they never mentioned taking the key out of the ignition. But yes......the security light is flashing when I try to start it. Not every time, half the time, maybe.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 03:58 PM
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Excellent Find!

Thanks Oldsman.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 03:59 PM
  #16  
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If that is the problem (passlock system) it is shutting down the injectors but not the fuel pump, so yes it will stumble a bit here and there, but the trick is to leave the key in the "on" position until the security light goes out 10+ mins
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Old May 21st, 2012, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by zodiacblueS
Thanks Oldsman.
No problem zodiacblueS
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Old May 21st, 2012, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by GAOldsman
If that is the problem (passlock system) it is shutting down the injectors but not the fuel pump, so yes it will stumble a bit here and there, but the trick is to leave the key in the "on" position until the security light goes out 10+ mins
I was told to check the injectors to see if they were spraying, but I got so disgusted with it, I said "the hell with it" and gave up. I did leave it on for about 10 minutes once, but then the battery was too dead to roll the engine over. Then I charged the battery and tried again, but this time still nothing. But I didn't take the key out of the ignition any time I tried that.

One other thing I forgot to mention. I tried a computer out of another car and as soon as I tried to roll it over, the stereo had "LOCKED" written across the screen.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 08:55 PM
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Thanks!! Helped out and saved money..
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 05:16 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Olds_71_442
One other thing I forgot to mention. I tried a computer out of another car and as soon as I tried to roll it over, the stereo had "LOCKED" written across the screen.
That would be the Anti-Theft radio lock out and a completely separate remedy. Try this


Things You'll Need

  • Security code (found with your Pontiac paperwork)





Instructions

  1.  
    • 1 Turn the car ignition to the "ON" position.
    • 2 Turn the radio off, if it is on.
    • 3 Press and hold the "Minute" button on the radio faceplate.
    • 4 Release the "Minute" button once "000" appears on the radio display.
    • 5 Press the "Minute" button again until the last two digits of the security code for your radio is displayed.
    • 6 Press the "Hour" button until the first two digits of the security code for your radio is displayed.
    • 7 Press the "AM/FM" button until "SEC" appears on the radio display.
    • 8 Press the "ON" button on the radio. The radio is now reset.

Tips & Warnings

  • Press the "Minute" and "Hour" buttons slowly until the security code matches. Going too fast may cause you to skip over the correct numbers of the security code.
  • Store your radio security code in a safe place.
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