Gary M

Can I convert from an automatic trans to a 4 speed manual in a 72 cutlass using the same engine block (455). I noticed on a bell housing picture I saw that the starter appears to be on the pass side.

dc2x4drvr

First thing, will your crankshaft accept a pilot bearing, and check your block to be sure it has the threaded hole for the Z bar.

Gary M

I was told the crank my builder put in will accept the pilot bearing. It is an Eagle 104554260. I will verify with Eagle tomorrow. There looks like a threaded hole above the starter. It is about 1 inch below the rear block pad. (like the one the vin is on in the front of the block).

dc2x4drvr

You're good to go, look at Costpenn's thread about adapting a 4speed hump to an automatic car.

Gary M

Don't know why I'm not smart enough to look at the assembly manual but I finally did and noticed I don't have the bracket that sits near the frame . Part # 3918098. Thanks for the help! I will check with CO members to find one. Love to shift!

wls559

Starter will be on driver's side (oil filter& adaptor is on passengerside). Make sure your block has provisions for the Z bar stud, all F blocks should have it but have heard rumors that some don't. In the pic I posted (that is sideways?!???) you can see the stud and where the hole should be (because of my terrible upload skills the stud is pointing down!) I think you already said your crank is pre machined for a pilot bushing. Your frame should also already have two pre dilled holes for the Z bar bracket.

Bill

Joeg

I have a 1970 cutlass W-31, It has a 3.91 rear end with the 3 spd auto trans. What would be a good gear to put in rear end if i'm putting 275/45/18 wheels and tires on it. It screams on the highway currently, so I want to make it alittle more highway friendly with out losing to much snap! Thanks!

Gary M

Search on the internet for gear ratio calculators. Enter tire size and rpm desired etc and it will give you a ratio. Some 442 s had 3:42 gears without Air conditioning. My car has 3:23 and easy on the highway but not as much pep as the 3:42s. But you have to figure in the large wheels you have to get a good match for your car. Good luck.

Funkwagon455

[QUOTE=Gary M;724414]Can I convert from an automatic trans to a 4 speed manual in a 72 cutlass using the same engine block (455). I noticed on a bell housing picture I saw that the starter appears to be on the pass side.[/QUOTE


I would suspect either the image was mirrored (reversed), or if the starter bulge is on the passenger side, it is a bell for Chevrolet, or even perhaps a Buick..

dc2x4drvr

3:08's to keep the rpm down, and still half way decent at the light..

Gary M

Called Eagle Crankshaft today and found out the crank is not predrilled as I thought . Only way to do it is with a special pilot bearing and cutting off part of the trans front shaft. Can't wrap my head around doing this modification. Going to have to think about that for awhile. Sure was nice hoping for a 4 speed while it lasted. Maybe a dual gate will have to do!

joe_padavano

There is an intermediate step. If you use the conversion bearing, you can bore a clearance hole in the crank that provides enough depth to avoid cutting the input shaft. Since this hole is for clearance only, it does not require the precise concentricity necessary for a stock-style pilot bearing. Note that drilling the crank while installed in the block will be very difficult, but the only alternative is to drop the crank and have it machined properly.

One added caveat. I have no personal experience with the conversion bearings. Others here have used them with mixed results.

Funkwagon455

In the twelve years I drove it with the conversion I never had any issues with my roller bearing pilot adapter. I drove the car with the gusto you'd expect with a manual as well. I suspect that premature failures could be induced by improper alignment of the bell as they are supposed to be dialed in. I had cut the snout of my TKO, but I like Joe's suggestion of simply boring a clearance hole. I have actually considered machining a set of drill bit guides that would insert into the recess and bolt to the flywheel flange. I think that you could get it in tolerance for a bronze bushing with a properly centered guide.

dc2x4drvr

Cost penny drilled his crank in the car, do a search on his 72 Vert build.

marxjunk

ijust spent 2 hrs with the search option and cant find the costpenn build..can someone link it? thanks

dc2x4drvr

PM Costpenn

My442

I did the full conversion on my 70 442.


Do a search here as I listed all the parts you need.


The conversion bearing I used first failed after 500 miles.


I had to get the crank drilled for the 7109 bearing.


If you need a template to cut the floor, I have one.

costpenn

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...owballing.html

Above is the thread that Lance mentioned about my resto - the 4 spd. conversion is towards the end, The clearance "hole" was drilled while the crank was in the block, but the engine was out of the car on a wooden cradle I built. Obviously, you can't drill the clearance if the engine stand is in the way. Cutting the end of the input shaft was a no go for me. I have about 2k miles on my car and haven't had any issues with the conversion pilot bearing.

marxjunk

thanks for the link..i pmed asking for the link before i saw this,,thanks!!!