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So I ghetto-locked my flywheel as shown below. At 10" from crankshaft centerline and 90-ft-lbs torque, what counterforce was applied to the bolt in the block?
I'm not sure either, but if your torque wrench clicked at the proper setting I'd say your good. Personally, I would have fed nylon rope into one of the cylinders and torqued the flywheel on against one of the heads.
90 ft-lbs means 90 lbs at one foot. At ten inches the force is 90 x (12/10) = 108 lbs. That's the load applied tangentially to the flywheel. The bigger problem is the bending load in that bolt, which looks like about 2" out from the block face. That's an additional 18 ft-lb bending load on the threads in addition to the 108 lb shear load. Neither one of those is particularly worrisome for a cast iron block.
I thread a bolt into the flywheel perimeter from the back (one of the clutch pressure plate mounting holes) and let it stop the flywheel from turning when it contacts the oil pan rail of the block.
It's been a while since I've done this, but I think I used to do things like this with the oil pan off and using a two by four to stop the crank from turning, i.e. the redneck way.
Thanks, Joe. Did Olds use another of their special tools to lock the flywheel?.
Olds probably didn't ever need to lock the flywheel. It's been a damn long time since I worked in an engine plant, but I seem to recall a multi-spindled nutrunner putting flex plates and flywheels on. In English, that's a tool with multiple sockets on extensions to hit them all at the same time. This saves time and locks the rotating assembly from spinning. This is sort of what you do putting a fan blade on the water pump, use two wrenches at once.
As for the torque, the exhaust flange I think will go first. I don't think you have the hoowah to hurt the block hole. Be sure to thread everything in all the way when doing something like this, you CAN ruin threads by partial insertion and then loading.
Olds probably didn't ever need to lock the flywheel. It's been a damn long time since I worked in an engine plant, but I seem to recall a multi-spindled nutrunner putting flex plates and flywheels on. In English, that's a tool with multiple sockets on extensions to hit them all at the same time. This saves time and locks the rotating assembly from spinning. This is sort of what you do putting a fan blade on the water pump, use two wrenches at once.
As for the torque, the exhaust flange I think will go first. I don't think you have the hoowah to hurt the block hole. Be sure to thread everything in all the way when doing something like this, you CAN ruin threads by partial insertion and then loading.
Id be willing to bet my next paycheck that’s exactly what every automaker did. The transmission plant I work in has nutrunners for valve body hardware, oil pump, transmission pans, basically anything with multiple fasteners holding something together.
It would take entirely too long for someone to individually torque multiple fasteners. And it’s safe to say if you do manage to complete a task in less time than engineering calculates it should, they will find another task for you to complete.
