I see in the 72 manual there are A,B,C points trying to figure out if its in inches if some one can give me the break down at point A,B,C and also the door to rear quarter panel spacing on their on vechicle this would be helpful thanks

 

I'm pretty sure the measurements are in inches. I just went down to my car to compare the gaps on the front door to what's in the AM and I found them to be on spec with 'inches'. you are looking at page 200 and 202 of the AM?
If it helps to measure in mm for better accuracy, here is a good conversion site: http://www.shoppingsense.ca/convert_mm_to_inches.htm

 

Allan of the bat what measurement did you get on a b c on your car and door to quarter

 

I don't know what 'of the bat' means, but I did go get some measurements and pics for you. Keep in mind that my car is not a show car, just a good looking one

There are 2 sets of measurements: One for view 35 and one for view 30. I used a tape measure to get these and it was easier to use mm to measure, so I've converted them to inches for you.

Here goes 35:
A = .120
B = .196
C = .157

Here is 30:
A = .196
B = .275
C = .120

Quarter panel to Door measurement: .275

Note: the fender and door gaps are irregular because the shape of the fender and doors are also irregular. These panels aren't the precise fit you get with modern tech and robot fitment. Does this help at all?

 

Allan off the Bat means rough measurment,the reason I was asking because when I bought my car I have the original fatory oai hood there looked like there was work done on the fiberglass what is happening is when i installed the hood to cowl seal my hood sticks up alot by the windshield. wanted to know what other people's measurement where to see if i had to move the door and fender forward toward the front of the car.any other input would help to line the hood up and not stick up so much but when i bought it didnt realizing the seal was missing and with it missing the hood sits fine

 

I get it now.

You have an OEM OAI so it will have steel hood liner and heavy springs, right?

To fix the height difference at the back of the hood, open the hood and tape the side of the rear hood and side of the rear fender so you don't chip or scratch the paint in the next step. Loosen off the 3 hinge bolts on each side a bit. Have a helper push up (fairly hard) right in the middle of the hood. If you don't have a helper, you can use a wood brace to hold the hood. Tighten down the 3 bolts on each side now. This procedure will suck the rear of the hood down so it's more flush with the fender. Basically thats how how the factory did it and it lines up nice. Remember, back then you had over 200 cars a day going by your station, so you couldn't spend a lot of time working on it. These guys had to put the hood on, attach the hood to spring, and line it up in just a few minutes. That's one of the reasons there's such big gaps between some of the panels. Not like today's precision robotic fitting and inspection.

Oh BTW, thanks for the clarification of "of the bat" I learned a new term today!