Godzuki

Gents,

I’m going to see a Cutlass on Tuesday that I’m very serious about. However, the asking price is almost $40k. The research I’ve done on comparable Oldsmobile Cutlasses from 1968 seem to range from $17k on the low end and $34k on the high end. I pulled that information from here: https://www.classic.com/m/oldsmobile...68?interval=1y

This is the car In looking at: https://classiccars.com/listings/vie...ennessee-37037

The price seems a little high when you look at the overall market.

Any advice you can give the new guy who is buying his first classic car?

Thanks.🙏🏼

redoldsman

If it is just a Cutlass, $40k seems high unless it is a low mileage car in very good condition. Take a look at Hagerty Price Guide to get an idea. Here is a link.

Classic Car, Truck and Motorcycle Values | Hagerty Valuation Tool®

442Harv

I think that is almost 442 prise.

joe_padavano

The car has a lot of aftermarket parts, so I'm sure they have that much into it. Is it worth that kind of money? Only you can decide. Keep in mind that since the car is not stock, if you are planning on having a shop work on it, they will likely have difficulty knowing what parts to get or how to adjust it. For example, that's an aftermarket A/C system with a custom compressor mount, so correct fan belts will require matching up the old ones. That Qjet is a later model carb with an electric choke. Is it properly jetted for this engine and cam? What engine is it, exactly? Yeah, it's an Olds 350, but what cam, what heads, what valves, what compression, what year? Is the HEI a GM unit or aftermarket? What's the advance curve? I see urethane bushings in the suspension. Be aware that these will squeak unless they have grease fittings, and then you will need to grease them with silicone grease periodically. And who spends that much money to build a car like this and keeps the drum brakes? Bottom line is this car is assembled from a lot of parts. Are they matched and tuned to work together? Do you have the skills to understand when things go wrong and fix them?

Your money, your call. Just be sure you make an informed decision.

redoldsman

They mention it is a 12-bolt rear end. Not really. The car came with a 12-bolt cover but it is actually a 10-bolt ring gear. As Joe mentioned, your money, your call. It appears to be a very nice car but personally I think it should be near $32,000. I would try bargaining with the seller. Let us know what you decide.

BangScreech4-4-2

I love the website's slogan: "We know the market so you don't have to."

Maybe disregard that and follow Joe's good advice. My own feeling is that for $45K the car better be damn near perfect.

Olds64

Too much. They say right in the description that there are blemishes in the paint.

oldcutlass

Bottom line, the car is worth what someone is willing to stroke a check for. If it's what you want, then negotiate a deal, if it's not walk away. There is no book value for a modified Cutlass.

Koda

Not even worth going to see it, in my opinion.

Godzuki

Thanks for the list of things for me to think about, Joe. That’s why I joined this forum. I’ll have to ask if the seller has any more information than what he posted in the ad.

Vintage Chief

I believe it should be priced ~$30K

BangScreech4-4-2

Well, it's got a 4-4-2 grille ...

Had a much closer look and the verdict is that it's an overpriced slapped-together heap with a few superficial "kustom" restomod touches. For forty grand you should be able to do a lot better. I wouldn't pay half that for this one.

therobski

It's not worth it to me ( not even close but what do I know )

th3ric3m4n

You have already received a lot of opinions to that the price is too high. I completely agree.

Instead I want to focus on your statement that you are a beginner to classic cars. A modified classic car will usually not be beginner friendly. Even a stock classic car may not be beginner friendly!
You could encounter unexpected drive-ability issues that are absent from modern cars. Hard starting, over heating, pinging, unusual power band, vague handling, no traction control, leaks when it rains, noise/vibration/harshness, gas and oil smells, etc.
Buy a mostly stock and well maintained Oldsmobile first to make sure you even like owning or driving a classic car.
If you don't. No problem. It's easier to re-sell mostly stock cars that you presumably didn't overpay for.
If you do. Great. You have a clean slate to learn the basics of classic car maintenance. Then you can start experimenting with light modifications to change the driving experience to your preference.

acavagnaro

Once again, Koda hits the mark! I can't believe anybody's got the ***** to ask $40k for a Cutlass S. I'd expect that car to be priced around $20k - and only because it's a convertible in what looks to be 'decent' shape. If that car were a hardtop, I'd say it should be $15k tops. It's your money but if you've got $40k to spend, you can do MUCH better and get something with an actual pedigree (442).

GN1220

Looks like aftermarket rivets holding the VIN tag. That alone would concern me, not to mention the stupid exhaust tips.

Godzuki

Guys, I can't tell you how much I appreciate the feedback regarding the price and the fact that I'm a new classic car owner. When I started my search, I went to a few car shows and talked to owners of classic cars. They all said the same thing...unless it's your passion, buy one that's already built. So I found one that had the upgrades and modifications I wanted. I can perform basic maintenance, but I'm not a skilled mechanic who can tear down an engine and build it back up. I emailed the owner and asked if he had any documentation detailing the mods. I haven't heard back from him. After reading all the possible issues, and my desire to not be nickel & dime'd to death (I just want a nice weekend cruiser), I might look for something else.

joe_padavano

While I'm not a fan of this car, I think that people need a reality check about what it costs to build a car like this today. The POS Cutlass wagon I recently bought was $6500, and it needs a complete interior, paint, and chrome work, in addition to the complete brake job, wheels and tires, new windshield, and other work I had to do to it. I'll have $10K into it just to get to Power Tour next week, and over $20K by the time it's done. A stock convertible Cutlass in driver shape will bring over $15K. This car has at least 2X that much into it and likely more. I wouldn't call it a $40K car, but $25-$30K is realistic, ASSUMING it is put together correctly. Obviously this is a dealer and they need to make a profit.

Yeah, I'm sure you could build it yourself for $1.95 and a couple of six packs.

wr1970

I'm with Koda not worth looking at for that kinda money.

Vintage Chief

It's a two case job all day...

redoldsman

Here is a nice 1969 Cutlass S with a 4-speed and AC. It bid to $17,500 on Bring A Trailer which I think was under market. Not a convertible but a nice car. Here is a link.

1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Holiday Coupe 4-Speed for sale on BaT Auctions - closed on June 2, 2024 (Lot #149,225) | Bring a Trailer

z11375ss

IMO, this car is nicer than the red one in the OP.

therobski

It did not sell for 17,500 did not meet the reserve

redoldsman

Rob, thanks for keeping me on my toes. But hey, what are friends for?

Thanks Buddy

therobski

That's right brother!

matt69olds

Buy the best car you can afford.

It’s almost always cheaper to buy a more expensive solid car that needs restoration instead of a cheaper rust bucket that needs the same work. Sheetmetal repair is expensive and very time consuming.

Personally, I think you did pretty good on the wagon.

BangScreech4-4-2

It does look nice. But two things: It's a hardtop, not an convertible. And I'd be a little concerned about the condition of the cowl after seeing that corroded VIN plate.

To OP: I apologize for letting my personal feelings trump good advice. I just don't like the car is all. To me it smacks of being a quick and dirty "restomod" job done with least amount of effort and money possible for a quick flip. Lipstick on a pig.

But I haven't see it up close. I could be wrong; it could be a decent car and I'm sure the dealer isn't firm on his price. If you can get it cheaper, maybe it could be a good choice for you. Couple of caveats, though: 1) Don't even dream about buying it sight unseen, and 2) When you look at it, take along somebody knowledgeable or else have it inspected by a professional familiar with the marque.

z11375ss

I agree that the vin rust is a huge red flag. I've never seen this before. Flood damage? Humidity? All of mine were very, very clean as they were kept from the elements.

GN1220

Am I incorrect on the VIN tag rivets? If not, I wouldn't look any further. Run away.

Loaded68W34

You are correct. Not only are the rivents not correct, the vin tag is installed incorrectly and the rivets are put on from the wrong side.

The vin was installed at the factory from under the dash with the "dash tabs" above the plate and the star rivet heads showing on the underside. This pic is from my toronado, but all the tags were installed the same way.

joe_padavano

The PIM actually allows rivet placement from either direction. And yes, these are obviously not the correct VIN tag rivets. You'd think that for $40K they could at least spring for a repro VIN bezel to hide that.

joe_padavano

I always buy the best car I can. I'm now 0-for-3 on paying dearly for "rust free" Nevada desert cars. The 69 spend it's entire life in the western NV desert, except for the last year in Phoenix. The pinchweld rust is ALWAYS worse than you expect.

matt69olds

Rust never sleeps. By the time you see the rust on the outside, the dreaded tin worms have been feasting for years.

I recently got my truck back from repairs after my trailer mishap. I had known about some rust bubbling in the cab corner. I was shocked to find out how rotten the inside really was. That sound deadening foam car makers are using might be great for noise and vibration, it sucks for keeping sheet metal clean!

In any case, I’d rather deal with a “little Arizona rust” as opposed to a “little east coast rust” any day. Same words, completely different meaning!

THDCTOM

I bought a 1970 442 convertible that had a frame off restoration and was like showroom condition visually. I paid $36 K and it was more than worth it.
Then I put $31 K in upgrades and conversions. So I am $67 k in and I wouldn't sell it for less than $130K as it sits. But I will NEVER sell it. It's the coolest car in town and its mine, mine it's all mine, LOL. The one your looking at is worth $18 K if it's a survivor or up to $40 K if it's restored based of the restoration. Bottom line, it's worth what you think it's worth.