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I subscribe to the Enginelabs email newsletter, which frequently has interesting info. This latest article with ten tips from Jeff Smith did not impress me, however...
Lazy and stupid. I could see it if you were out of town and had to make it somewhere as an emergency fix or getting stuck on the side of the road, but you're also hoping the backside of the flare gets sealed by the nut. Or you'll still have a leak. That's one hack that if I ever did it, I wouldn't tell anyone.
Lazy and stupid. I could see it if you were out of town and had to make it somewhere as an emergency fix or getting stuck on the side of the road, but you're also hoping the backside of the flare gets sealed by the nut. Or you'll still have a leak. That's one hack that if I ever did it, I wouldn't tell anyone.
Wow. Just friggin' wow.
Yeah, I'm still waiting for someone to tell me how teflon on the flare nut threads also seals between the flare nut and the tube...
Now, if you REALLY want hackery, here's how you band-aid a damaged flare seal. Find an o-ring that is the same diameter as the OD of the flare and put it in the female fitting before you install the tube and nut. Now you actually have something that will seal on the damaged flare. Of course, they actually make conical copper washers for that, but who has those laying around on a weekend afternoon?
I've used PTFE tape on these threads a few times--and it worked.
It can't work the way Jeff said, and he should know better. When it works, its because it reduces the coefficient of friction on bunged-up threads to increase the clamping force.
It's just a crutch to get somewhere where you have the tools and equipment to fix it properly.
It can't work the way Jeff said, and he should know better. When it works, its because it reduces the coefficient of friction on bunged-up threads to increase the clamping force.
If reducing friction were the only requirement, oil or even anti-seize would be a better choice since the thickness of the teflon tape increases friction force on the nut. And again, if the flare is that messed up that you need to wail on it to get a seal, the o-ring in the flare fitting works a LOT better. By the way, as a matter of course now, I always put a tiny dab of antiseize between the nut and the tube and on the nut threads when I install an inverted flare nut. This both reduces friction and helps prevent rust between the nut and the tube, which is why those fittings twist the tube when you try to take them out ten years later.
By the way, as a matter of course now, I always put a tiny dab of antiseize between the nut and the tube and on the nut threads when I install an inverted flare nut. This both reduces friction and helps prevent rust between the nut and the tube, which is why those fittings twist the tube when you try to take them out ten years later.
I started doing that with my Mustang I just restored. I had never heard of anyone recommending it but after twisting every old flare nut off the lines when I was dissaembled it, it just seemed like common sense.
If reducing friction were the only requirement, oil or even anti-seize would be a better choice since the thickness of the teflon tape increases friction force on the nut. And again, if the flare is that messed up that you need to wail on it to get a seal, the o-ring in the flare fitting works a LOT better. By the way, as a matter of course now, I always put a tiny dab of antiseize between the nut and the tube and on the nut threads when I install an inverted flare nut. This both reduces friction and helps prevent rust between the nut and the tube, which is why those fittings twist the tube when you try to take them out ten years later.
I like that tip Joe P !!!!! Thanks. Do you know what angle the inverted flair is ?
I have used the PTFE tape on rare occasions, but I will not have any from 1/8 to 3/16" from the end. That tape on the "lead thread" can get cut off and end up where you don't want it.
.......Just my two cents worth.
how this relates to supposed "industry standards" regarding AN fittings & NPT fittings
It doesn't. Inverted flare fittings are a totally different piping connection format from either of those. Packard 56 electrical connectors are completely unrelated to Weatherpack which are completely unrelated to Molex, etc, etc.
