evaporator core questions
#1
evaporator core questions
Hello guys, I'm not an experienced mechanic by no means but I tinker a bit. During my tinkering I left my evaporator core outside and it grew legs and walked away. I read a few threads that said to go back original. My question is, is it a good idea to buy an old evaporator core thats been sitting for 10+ years inside(not attached to the car outside)? Plus the part is 3 hours away from me so if it's bad id be out of luck. Ive seen a couple online but again but not sure which one to purchase. Fyi I have a 1971 cutlass with a 2 barrel 350. Any suggestions and information is greatly appreciated. Thanks
#2
My experience has shown that these commonly spring leaks. I had two tested and both leaked. If you buy one, you are taking a chance. Have it tested and flushed by an AV shop before installing. Either buy cheap or work a deal with the seller for a refund if it leaks and you can provide a letter from the shop stating so.
A new one costs about 300 clams and I found only the one from classic auto air has the right bend at the top. Others were formed differently but would physically fit...
A new one costs about 300 clams and I found only the one from classic auto air has the right bend at the top. Others were formed differently but would physically fit...
#5
Its also been my experience that more often than not, original evaps leak, I use to pressure check them all the time and would have to replace most. Now I don't even bother pressure checking them, unless its for a customer. If you are still looking for an evap. I have a new one.
Last edited by banny; April 17th, 2014 at 10:05 AM.
#6
As Rob mentioned Classic and or Vintage Auto Air can guide you here. They have what you need in stock as well as superb tech advice and any other parts you will need to bring the AC system back up to snuff. If you go used follow Robs advice. Used units really need to be flushed good and leak checked or you will cause damage to your "new" system.
#7
Its also been my experience that more often than not, original evaps leak, I use to pressure check them all the time and would have to replace most. Now I don't even bother pressure checking them, unless its for a customer. If you are still looking for an evap. I have a new one.
#9
I would never put an old one back in, just because they are such a PITA to change. If I ever have to pull the front fender on my car for any reason it will get a new one before the fender goes back on.
#10
That Case was designed so that the evap could be removed without pulling the entire unit out but its still a pain. Especially if one has everything nicely restored. Almost a garuantee that something is gonna get scratched.
#11
I pressure tested 3 original evaporators and all 3 were good. I left 200 lbs pressure on 2 of them for over a month and held. I sold them all but i have more to test. If I have another good one I sell them for $100 + shipping.
#12
That's some luck there. I never got three in a row that tested good. I pressure test mine with 300 psi of nitrogen after I flush them cause debris can possibly plug the leak. This is tha same procedure that classic auto air uses. I also have had them not leak at 150-200 psi and then leak at 300.
#14
You know I wondered the same thing. But never has one explode at 300psi. Found many leaks but never an explosion. Now I know by experience that 450-500 one will explode. Well at least one that possibly is bad. Somehow must have bumped the regulator up to 500 psi by mistake. Exploded within seconds under water.. wasn't fun at all.
Last edited by banny; April 17th, 2014 at 05:49 PM.
#16
Nitrogen only. I cringe when I see people recommend using compressed air... first time I did it I did not have the proper caps (we work on high pressure refrigeration and don't have automotive style tools) and I just used a rubber hose with hose clamps. I plugged one of the rubber hoses with a valve lifter. I had that one to 250 when the clamp could no longer hold the lifter. The lifter went through a double metal wall full insulated overhead door and keep going another 50 feet. After that i got the proper caps and only test them to 200#
Last edited by jensenracing77; April 17th, 2014 at 06:13 PM.
#18
Put me down for one, will ya? How soon will you know if you know if you have any to sell?
#23
I had time this morning so I got it tested. Had 225 PSI on it and had it under water for over an hour. No leaks. Send me your email again and I will get you pictures. It has a small ding in it but will not affect it's performance.
#24
Sorry Westside, don't mean to hijack your thread.
#26
#28
Dropped off the evap, condenser, and radiator. They said $50-$60 to test all three. Seems more than fair. Although they took one look at the radiator and said that it will need re-cored. Now I'm trying to figure out if I want to re-core this one or buy an aluminum.
#30
#33
#35
I had my original 3 row radiator rebuilt with a Craig 858384 high efficiency 4 row core and the original Harrison end tanks so it looks like it's original. It has worked very well during our 115+ degree summers. The radiator shop said it was available as a core only and not a complete radiator.
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