Hello guys, I'm not an experienced mechanic by no means but I tinker a bit. During my tinkering I left my evaporator core outside and it grew legs and walked away. I read a few threads that said to go back original. My question is, is it a good idea to buy an old evaporator core thats been sitting for 10+ years inside(not attached to the car outside)? Plus the part is 3 hours away from me so if it's bad id be out of luck. Ive seen a couple online but again but not sure which one to purchase. Fyi I have a 1971 cutlass with a 2 barrel 350. Any suggestions and information is greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

My experience has shown that these commonly spring leaks. I had two tested and both leaked. If you buy one, you are taking a chance. Have it tested and flushed by an AV shop before installing. Either buy cheap or work a deal with the seller for a refund if it leaks and you can provide a letter from the shop stating so.
A new one costs about 300 clams and I found only the one from classic auto air has the right bend at the top. Others were formed differently but would physically fit...

 

Thanks. I was worried about it leaking. The salvage has many according to the web so maybe they'll deal with me. Again thanks for the advice/info!!!!

 

Many salvage yards will offer a short warranty. Now the 3 hour trip is another issue unless you can call it a pleasure ride or such.

 

Its also been my experience that more often than not, original evaps leak, I use to pressure check them all the time and would have to replace most. Now I don't even bother pressure checking them, unless its for a customer. If you are still looking for an evap. I have a new one.

 

As Rob mentioned Classic and or Vintage Auto Air can guide you here. They have what you need in stock as well as superb tech advice and any other parts you will need to bring the AC system back up to snuff. If you go used follow Robs advice. Used units really need to be flushed good and leak checked or you will cause damage to your "new" system.

 

how much?

 

$175 but I may have spoken too soon. I can't remember if its for a cutlass or chevelle, which has a smaller tube for the exp valve. Ill have to check

 

I would never put an old one back in, just because they are such a PITA to change. If I ever have to pull the front fender on my car for any reason it will get a new one before the fender goes back on.

 

That Case was designed so that the evap could be removed without pulling the entire unit out but its still a pain. Especially if one has everything nicely restored. Almost a garuantee that something is gonna get scratched.

 

I pressure tested 3 original evaporators and all 3 were good. I left 200 lbs pressure on 2 of them for over a month and held. I sold them all but i have more to test. If I have another good one I sell them for $100 + shipping.

 

That's some luck there. I never got three in a row that tested good. I pressure test mine with 300 psi of nitrogen after I flush them cause debris can possibly plug the leak. This is tha same procedure that classic auto air uses. I also have had them not leak at 150-200 psi and then leak at 300.

 

lol, I would be worried of an explosion at 300. An evaporator would never see 300#. Even on a 120 degree day.

 

You know I wondered the same thing. But never has one explode at 300psi. Found many leaks but never an explosion. Now I know by experience that 450-500 one will explode. Well at least one that possibly is bad. Somehow must have bumped the regulator up to 500 psi by mistake. Exploded within seconds under water.. wasn't fun at all.

 

Do you pressure check yours with compressed air or nitrogen?

 

Nitrogen only. I cringe when I see people recommend using compressed air... first time I did it I did not have the proper caps (we work on high pressure refrigeration and don't have automotive style tools) and I just used a rubber hose with hose clamps. I plugged one of the rubber hoses with a valve lifter. I had that one to 250 when the clamp could no longer hold the lifter. The lifter went through a double metal wall full insulated overhead door and keep going another 50 feet. After that i got the proper caps and only test them to 200#

 

Boooomshockalocka?

 

Put me down for one, will ya? How soon will you know if you know if you have any to sell?

 

Since it was standard practice to go to 300 psi pressure test for all rebuilt parts , that's the way I continue to do it to this day.

 

It will be Monday before I can test one. I will try to do it today at work but I have several meetings today. If you find one first go ahead with it but I should know by Monday.

 

I'm taking mine in for testing today. Seems like a gamble since they charge $40. Might as well have the condenser tested as well.
Monday is plenty soon for me. I have a '71 Supreme btw.

 

Dam, $40 is pretty expensive. Is that for both the evap and the condenser or just the evap. If just one, that's highway robbery.

 

I had time this morning so I got it tested. Had 225 PSI on it and had it under water for over an hour. No leaks. Send me your email again and I will get you pictures. It has a small ding in it but will not affect it's performance.

 

$40 was a guess. The fella said they tested a '70 GTO evap yesterday for $67 but that included removal. I'm hoping it's less that $40. What's a fair price?


Since this is Westside's thread, he should get first crack at it.


Sorry Westside, don't mean to hijack your thread.

 

Sorry Westside. I was not even looking at who the OP was. I have a good one if you are interested.

 

Westside definitely has dibs so no worries. I'll know if I need one by Monday or Tuesday so if you have two that test out, hold one for me please.

 

Well if $67 includes r &r then that's a fair price, to me anyways. I charge $20 if someone brings in the evap. Its a ten minute job, aside from letting it sit for awhile in the tank

 

Dropped off the evap, condenser, and radiator. They said $50-$60 to test all three. Seems more than fair. Although they took one look at the radiator and said that it will need re-cored. Now I'm trying to figure out if I want to re-core this one or buy an aluminum.

 

I had a factory condenser tested and flushed for 20 bucks at an independent AC shop, just for a price reference.

 

Thanks Rob. BTW, have you seen all the trouble your "Into the Unknown" thread has gotten me into?

 

You forgot to order my infamous anti-MAW helmet...

 

Don't you remember? I was wearing it backwards! It had the reverse effect

 

My evaporator tested fine so I won't be needing one. Thanks jensen.

 

sounds good.

 

I had my original 3 row radiator rebuilt with a Craig 858384 high efficiency 4 row core and the original Harrison end tanks so it looks like it's original. It has worked very well during our 115+ degree summers. The radiator shop said it was available as a core only and not a complete radiator.