z11375ss

Can I put an electric trunk release on my 68? I think they were vacuum in 68. Will I be able to make it work? Opinions, please.

kevdog442

I don't see why not. I think it was an option wasn't it?

oldspackrat

I think the area where the trunk lid latches onto the striker is the same from '68-'72? If so, an electric solenoid latch should bolt right in place of the existing latch, assuming the bolt holes are the same? Installing the button in the glove box should be easy also (3/4" hole saw is helpful) then just connect to a hot wire under the dash & complete the circuit under the passenger side floor gutter into the trunk, along the latch, & through the holes in the passenger side of the deck lid.

z11375ss

My buddy said about the same thing. He is an electrical engineer and he said, "Come on man! This is what I do!" I didn't know if it being a vacuum opener from the factory if this was feasible. Looks good. Just a thing to do considering everything else is upgraded. I think it would be cool to have. Thanks for the input. I'll report back on what we do and what happens.

z11375ss

I think this was an option but it was vacuum operated. Hence my question.

z11375ss

Funny I bought it off eBay for 100 bucks. Looks new. Year One offers one from China new for the same price. Mine is period correct and marked made in USA. I'll take this one over Chineseium any day, even if it is old. At least I'll be confident it will work.

joe_padavano

I doubt it. This isn't an electrical engineering problem, it's a mechanical one. Adapting the release actuator to the 1968 latch doesn't involve electrons.

And yes, the optional 1968 release was vacuum operated.

z11375ss

I thought he meant he could drive an electric train.

Octania

The trunk lock does not care if you operate it with your hand or vacuum power or electricity. Fitting the electrical solenoid to the decklid would be the main problem, and that might just bolt up. If not, make a bracket or modify to suit.


Uh yah, for any power release, you need the long dangly bit with a swivel joint so the power thing can happen w/o disturbing the key lock. Those are kinda rare. No pix of said item on ePay today that I can find.


Like the bar at the bottom of the pic in this ad
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Olds-Cutlass...BZaBtw&vxp=mtr


but longer, danglier, and with a spherical swivel joint in the middle.


It is entirely possible that if the lock cylinder has provision for the bar to be turned from inside w/o affecting the lock cylinder, one does not need the long dangly bit with a swivel joint, one can just use the straight unbending long dangly bit. Someone here will know.

z11375ss

I need to really look at the part but I seem to remember a slot I thought the dangly bit went into.

67442nut

Vacuum from1964 (I think) to 1969.
Electric started in1970.
Long dangly thing replaces the straight rod on the non-power trunk lid.
Can't imagine installation would be much more than
drilling some holes and bolting it up.
Worst part will be running the wire.

Yellowstatue

The electric latch from a '70 A body will work with no modifications other than a hole for the one sheet metal screw and the dangly bit...I installed one (same type) in the 1900's into a '64 SS that we used to daily drive. One hole to drill for the sheet metal screw and one for the switch. Upon reflection, I think the hole for the sheet metal screw at the latch was for the vacuum actuator installation.