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Pull the distributor and check the bottom of the gear to see if it wear marks.
you could pull the distributor out and put some white grease on the distributor gear. Crank the engine without running it for a few turns and then pull distributor out and see how the grease pattern mesh looks I heard new cams and be rough on distributor gears..
That things isn't moving around that's much. Leave it be. It will run just fine with housing 180 out. I've seen way more movement from a billet distributor.
As others have noted, Olds motors put the vacuum advance diaphragm on the passenger side, which then orients the window in the cap for easy access. You would need to re-clock the plug wires on the cap to match.
So it should be as simple as removing the distributor rotating the housing180 reinserting, and arranging the wires correctly?
If that fails go to the #1 TDC route. how do ensure you are at TDC on the compression stroke?
He's already found #1 since the engine is running. Just rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire and line up the balancer with the timing mark. Then restab the distributor where you want it and wire accordingly.
You still need to look at the end of the shaft to see if it's bottoming out causing the wobble.
Thanks for the tips guys.
Got another? how much force should it take to remove the distributor?
I shouldn't have to pry it out, should I?
I just tried for 10 minutes including standing over the engine and yanking on the distributor.
I didn't eat my Wheaties but jeez.
There are two common causes of the distributor being difficult to remove. First, there is an o-ring on the part of the distributor body inside the block. The rubber gets hard with age and varnish builds in the bore in the block. Second, the oil pump drive shaft usually sticks in the distributor gear. The shaft has a pressed-on retainer that is supposed to hold it in the block. You will have to pull hard enough to force that retainer down the length of the oil pump drive shaft until the retainer drops into the oil pan.
There are two common causes of the distributor being difficult to remove. First, there is an o-ring on the part of the distributor body inside the block. The rubber gets hard with age and varnish builds in the bore in the block. Second, the oil pump drive shaft usually sticks in the distributor gear. The shaft has a pressed-on retainer that is supposed to hold it in the block. You will have to pull hard enough to force that retainer down the length of the oil pump drive shaft until the retainer drops into the oil pan.
That sounds scary but it doesn't sound like the first time it's been done.
Does it create a problem with the retainer needing to be removed by dropping the oil pan?
Am I opening a can of worms and better off living with limited access to the cap window and should leave well enough alone?
It rotates easily and is showing a slight gap where it has unseated, soaking now with deep creep, keep going or abandon ship?
I'd keep going. The distributor on my '71 CS 350 was stubborn to get out. I tried several times - each time I gave up at the point of using brute force & just walked away to work on something else, returning each time to re-evaluate my next approach. What I settled on was this. I used a very long wide-tip straight edge screwdriver. The distributor turned freely but I just couldn't get it to pop out. I gently used a hammer to nudge the tip of the screw driver under the lip of the distributor - I did this on the driver side & passenger side. It was enough to get a little movement - at least enough to get the straight edge under the lip. Next, I continually "turned" the screwdriver so as to force the straight-edge of the screwdriver "upwards" against the lip - performing this on both side of the distributor. I occasionally give the screwdriver a couple of "love taps" - not hard, just simple taps - turning the screwdriver each time until finally the lip popped up. At this point I was a very happy camper, but the distributor still was fighting. Next, I grabbed a crow bar of appropriate size - enough to "grab" under the lip and with downward force on the crowbar I worked around the lip on the passenger side and driver side. It finally popped up. You'll be surprised how much leverage/force can be imparted by twisting a screwdriver under that lip.
"If" (kind of a big if) you happen to have a long slide hammer with an end claw attachment, you could try a slide hammer with the claws attached under the distributor base plate.
That sounds scary but it doesn't sound like the first time it's been done.
Does it create a problem with the retainer needing to be removed by dropping the oil pan?
Am I opening a can of worms and better off living with limited access to the cap window and should leave well enough alone?
It rotates easily and is showing a slight gap where it has unseated, soaking now with deep creep, keep going or abandon ship?
TIA
I've had this happen a lot and I've never bothered to remove that retainer. If you're really losing sleep over it, get a magnetic drain plug.
The good:
Managed to get the distributor out with the shaft staying put.
The Bad:
I think based on the original position of the housing I am unable to rotate it exactly 180 due to interference with the intake.
After aligning the rotor 180 to the original rotor location I am off by a tooth or so. (no start little backfire)
I think it's a full moon tonight so I will try the #1 TDC and restab the distributor tomorrow.
I think I may have to switch a couple of spark wires based on the length of the new position.
Please verify my thinking is correct. (or am I missing the concept entirely)
Since the distributor is rotating as well as the housing rotates, the starting port #1 on the cap is only predicated by the length of the spark plug wire.
The best location for #1 would be determined while the housing is located in the center adjustment arc. ( most clearance from the firewall etc)
Please verify my thinking is correct. (or am I missing the concept entirely)
Since the distributor is rotating as well as the housing rotates, the starting port #1 on the cap is only predicated by the length of the spark plug wire.
The best location for #1 would be determined while the housing is located in the center adjustment arc. ( most clearance from the firewall etc)
The location of the #1 wire on the cap is solely determined by TDC of the #1 cylinder. So long as the rotor points to that terminal when the cylinder is at TDC on compression, it doesn't matter which terminal on the cap it is. This is a concept that a lot of people have trouble grasping.
Install the distributor where it makes sense for location of the vac advance with sufficient rotary travel for timing adjustment. If you care about where #1 is on the cap, then put #1 at TDC on the compression stroke first and try to get the rotor pointed to about that desired location as you engage the drive gear. Install the cap and put the #1 wire in that desired location on the cap. Now install the rest of the wires in 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 order going counterclockwise on the cap. Done. Leave the distributor a little loose, connect a timing light, and fire up the engine. You can clock the distributor slightly while cranking to get the engine to light. Set timing. Tighten distributor bolt. Drive car.
We've spent way more time talking about this than it takes to actually do it.
Note to self:
It runs much better if you put the #1 spark plug and wire back.
Took out my 50 yr old Sears remote starter switch and engine analyzer bumped the starter till my thumb made a farting noise when pressed against the spark plug hole.
Rotated the crank a tiny bit back to zero it out.
Looked like it was off by two teeth.
Pulled the dizzy rotated to #1 wire and reinserted.
Fired right up (after reinstalling #1 plug and wire)
The first of many dwell meters didn't seem to work so I just set the timing. probably a little advanced at around 14-15 btdc.
Pulled out my stash of meters and got 2 to show 37 dwell. Can't find my flexible hex key at least I can get at the window now that the dizzy orientation is correct.
Good time to go through my meters and timing lights to see what works or not.
So need to set dwell and redo the timing.
Note to self:
It runs much better if you put the #1 spark plug and wire back.
Can't find my flexible hex key at least I can get at the window now that the dizzy orientation is correct.
So need to set dwell and redo the timing.
I must be an old timer. To set the dwell I use a hex key and my fenders are on the car ..lol 😆
