Flye

Disassembling a '66 425.

Distributor won't budge. Will not turn an iota in either direction.

Appears to me to have some hammer marks on the collar just at the block, so assuming someone either tried to peen it to hold timing, or beat the snap out of it trying to budge it at some earlier date.

I've put modest heat to the block with just the hand held propane torch (mapp), tapped the shaft, used a chisel on the collar and put a pair of grip pliers trying to turn it and it hasn't budged.

I've got to leave town for a few days, so I'll let it soak (albeit, I've never had much luck with that stuff) and see if it makes any difference.

My last resort is going to be to cut the whole distributor shaft off close to block and then try to cut it enough to take a chisel to the distributor to try to pull it off the block hole.

ANY ideas on anything else to try? I hate to throw too much heat to the block back there (and I don't have an acetylene torch anyway).

Thanks,

Anyone have this problem before?

oldcutlass

It's varnished in there. Is the engine in or out of the car?

59-59-59

Try an oil filter strap wrench. It worked for me in an older Olds points distributor in a seized block I had. That and a little diesel soaking near where the housing meets the block

jcdynamic88

when ive run into this with engine in the car and couldn't turn it with a wrench on the square boss I removed the hood and used a slide hammer.it always amazed me as to how badly these can be frozen in place,jc

59-59-59

Well whatever you do just make sure to remove the distributor hold down clamp. I had to say it!

Flye

-motor out of car on stand

-bolt and hold down clamp removed

-soaked with deep creep and now PB blaster. will get some diesel

-I'll try oil filter wrench, but I'm guessing the wrench is going to break before it'll free this thing at this point

-where did you hook, connect the slide hammer? I can probably get a loaner from parts store or just buy one if I have to. tools are usually good purchases in the long run....

keep 'em coming. i'll try anything once..... Thanks.

4rims

Use a pipe wrench as it gets tighter the more force is placed on it. It will not slip and will give you more leverage.

Dave

Oldsguy

With a long handle, say three feet....

edzolz

I mix my own penetrating oil. 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone. Works better than anything I have bought yet. Let it soak overnight. The Acetone will cut the varnish and the ATF will lubricate.

ls98

maybe you can remove the oil pan and oil pump and drive it out from the bottom.

oldcutlass

X2, after you get is to rotate a little bit, patience.

joe_padavano

There are two causes of a frozen distributor. First, the o-ring seal on the distributor body gets hard and sticks. More likely is galvanic corrosion of the aluminum distributor body in the cast iron block. Penetrating oil and shock are the only ways around that, unfortunately.

Flye

That's my guess on the cause.

I'll try more soak when i get back Sunday.

Thanks,

Octania

Heed the above.

"maybe you can remove the oil pan and oil pump and drive it out from the bottom."

Correct. Fiddling with the top, with Implements of Force, will get you a broken distributor. Remove Oil Pan, then oil pump. Using an oil pump drive rod or similar, drive it out from the crank side. IT may still break, but in new and interesting ways!

johns59super88

I had a hard time with mine the first time. Soaking with pb and plenty of tapping finally got it out. Used a bit of anti-seize on the collar when I put it back.