Disconnected choke bad or good
#1
Disconnected choke bad or good
I had the mech disconnect the choke from the rochchester carb.it was taking to long to open.i was going to switch to the elec choke but he said you dont really need the choke because the car is stored in a garage.before i had a loss of power when i stepped on the gas know there is alot more pickup.is this good 0r bad pros and cons thanks
#3
If it runs good as is, I would say leave it alone.
Do make sure that he secured the linkage so that the choke flap cannot accidentally close for any reason.
It is possible the car is running rich if you do not need a choke for cold starts and any choking on a cold engine causes roughness and opening the choke causes it to run smooth.
Do make sure that he secured the linkage so that the choke flap cannot accidentally close for any reason.
It is possible the car is running rich if you do not need a choke for cold starts and any choking on a cold engine causes roughness and opening the choke causes it to run smooth.
#4
I had the mech disconnect the choke from the rochchester carb.it was taking to long to open.i was going to switch to the elec choke but he said you dont really need the choke because the car is stored in a garage.before i had a loss of power when i stepped on the gas know there is alot more pickup.is this good 0r bad pros and cons thanks
Oh, and find a new mechanic.
#6
Joe the problem i was having is i still have the old choke stove connected but it was taking about 20 -40 minutes for the choke flap to open i had my carb rebuilt should have changed it to an elec choke i purchased a elec choke and never installed it.should i connect the elec choke because with having no choke connected i have more pickup and less blowing black smoke when i step hard on the pedal and not buring as rich what do you think joe BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE CHOKE IT WOULD TAKE ME ABOUT 4 TRIES TO START THE CAR IS THAT BAD
#7
Joe the problem i was having is i still have the old choke stove connected but it was taking about 20 -40 minutes for the choke flap to open i had my carb rebuilt should have changed it to an elec choke i purchased a elec choke and never installed it.should i connect the elec choke because with having no choke connected i have more pickup and less blowing black smoke when i step hard on the pedal and not buring as rich what do you think joe BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE CHOKE IT WOULD TAKE ME ABOUT 4 TRIES TO START THE CAR IS THAT BAD
Other things to check are the metal tubes that feed warmed air to the choke housing. If they have rusted shut inside the intake manifold crossover, that would delay choke opening. Obviously it should not take five minutes for the choke to open nor should the car belch black smoke. The hot air choke is not a complicated system.
#9
#10
Good point I doubt many people have this, but I have seen a tool you hook up to an air compressor and blows really hot air. That would be perfect for checking that. Less flammable also.
#11
I drove a 72 Eldorado all year (my first car in the 90's). the Quadrajet choke and warmup system worked flawlessly during the coldest New England weather. Granted it was a bit different system but every car I've owned with carburetors gave no winter start up or warm up problems. My 70 Cutlass has an Edle but the only cold weather running is in December if the snow hasn't flown yet. I do want to get all the parts to eventually convert back to a stock type iron manufold and Q jet.
#13
in situations like this I want to find out why the system isn't working properly, fix it rather than disable it.
from you avatar you should have a hot air choke
1. check for unobstructed air flow in the air tube from the rear of the carb to the choke housing. being certain the entire tube is intact.
2. check for vacuum at the choke housing where the tube attaches. is the choke coil gasket in place?
3. test for choke coil operation. immerse the coil in boiling water or use a heat gun to see in the coil moves when hot.
switching to an electric system is an option. many aftermarket manifolds have no provision for hot air systems
with either system be sure the coil is installed properly by engaging the lever inside the housing.
with the choke butterfly fixed in the open position will require several pumps on initial start up but shouldn't be any danger in washing down the cylinder walls.
from you avatar you should have a hot air choke
1. check for unobstructed air flow in the air tube from the rear of the carb to the choke housing. being certain the entire tube is intact.
2. check for vacuum at the choke housing where the tube attaches. is the choke coil gasket in place?
3. test for choke coil operation. immerse the coil in boiling water or use a heat gun to see in the coil moves when hot.
switching to an electric system is an option. many aftermarket manifolds have no provision for hot air systems
with either system be sure the coil is installed properly by engaging the lever inside the housing.
with the choke butterfly fixed in the open position will require several pumps on initial start up but shouldn't be any danger in washing down the cylinder walls.
#17
I couldn't agree more. One of the things I like most about working on cars is the instant gratification of fixing something that didn't work before. This is a big change from working in the aerospace industry, where it's years (or in the case of NASA, decades ) before any progress is seen.
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