Dokks74

Being a Chevy kind of guy, I'm having some issues getting to know my Olds.
Will a big block starter and a small block starter interchange?
I just purchased a intake manifold gasket set, and in it I found a large, sheet metal gasket, and 3 black rubber manifold ends.I know how a Chevy and a Pontiac manifold set should look like, and how to install, but I'm at a loss as to the Olds set-up.Should there be separate manifold gaskets or does the sheet metal "gasket" take the place?? Geez, I hate to sound like a dummy, but I've never got into an Olds engine in my 60 years of motoring,lol.

GTI_Guru

that's the "turkey pan" style gasket. Yes, it covers the entire valley between the heads. and then the intake rests down on top of it.

Don't forget to use the black rubber/neoprene end gaskets too. Not a bad design. Once it's set in place, it pretty much stays there and won't move. I've seen the other ones shift a little during installation causing an intake leak on other engines.

Image here for reference.

http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a.../PICT00051.jpg


-Jeff

Dokks74

So the entire "turkey pan" goes into the valley, and then the neoprene ends seal the manifold ends...While looking at the front of my engine, I noticed the end seal was half off the machined surface, thus making me buy the intake set to correct it. Thanks for the timely info, and also the great picture.. Man, you guys on this site are super!!! I belong to other sites but this one is great.. Thanks.

GTI_Guru

you got it! If an end seal has fallen/blown out, make sure to check your valve cover breathers & PCV valve to make sure they are not totally clogged. Excessive blow-by with nowhere else to go has to exit the engine somehow. Might have caused this condition.

I have seen them pop out before too. not uncommon. Could just be swollen from a bit of fuel in the oil, and it could be caused by the new ethanol blends too.

kjr442

IMO you should not use any sealant along with the front and back seals, accept where the "turkey pan" meets up with it, you only need a little at all four corners. You should use the appropriate sealant at the water ports though.

MDchanic

You will find that many DO NOT use the black rubber end seals, as they do just what you observed, and extrude over time, causing leaks.

You can just run a healthy bead of black RTV instead, and it'll seal better and longer.

- Eric

Dokks74

When it come time to do it, I was going to "pockmark" the sealing surfaces with a small punch,(the end seal surfaces), and use permatex #2 on them, rtv on the corners, and on the water-ports, etc, on the heads. I've never had a problem in my chevy engines doing it this way, the "turkey pan" way of sealing just threw me a little.

Dokks74

I know a lot of guys just throw those end seals out and use rtv, but from my experience, if you do it right, there's no problems.

MDchanic

I can't disagree.

Either way you do it, it's no big deal - worst thing that can happen is an oil leak.

- Eric

jag1886

Yes big block and small block starters interchange.

MDchanic

BUT there are high torque and low torque starters, and though all will bolt up, a low torque starter won't last in a high torque application.

- Eric

J-(Chicago)

Eric, do you have any low torque starters laying around?
I was thinking of replacing the sprocket on my bicycle with a flex plate , and letting a starter do the pedaling for me.

Those High torque jobs will probably just flip me over instead.

DeltaPace77

I'm with "MD" and just use RTV accross the front/rear instead of the rubber pieces. Actually read some articles that many engine builders prefer this. Also found a light coat of Permatex #2 or brush on red High Tack around the ports works well.

MDchanic

-Eric

Dokks74

Really? I was told at the local parts store by the manager that they will not interchange..Hmmmmmm.