My 72 Cutlass is running about 210 while sitting at lights and I would like to get the temp down, I am currently running a 195 thermostat and will be putting in a 180. I also was thinking about a flex fan with a spacer to put it right up on the radiator, does anyone have any suggestions on flex fans?

 

Do you have the fan shroud properly installed?

 

Yeah I put one of the aftermarket chrome shrouds on that mount straight to the radiator, the timing might be a little high also. I was wanting to get max airflow at all times thats why i was thinking about the flex fan.

 

After many years of using multiple fan clutches, both thermostatic and centifugal, I was never pleased with the amount of air moved by the fan at lower engine and vehicle speeds. I am currently using a 19" (red) Flex-a-lite fan. Along with a custom built shroud, it does a better job of moving air at low speeds compared to the clutch fan. If you decide to use one, you will need to choose the spacer(s) according to your situation. Also you should be very careful when working around it, as the blades are thin and can make a nasty cut on your hands or arms.

 

Let's make something clear: the thermostat does not cool your engine any more than your house thermostat cools or heats your home. Rather, it controls the temperature at which your engine runs -- provided the cooling system has the capacity to "obey" the thermostat.

If your engine temp currently rises 15 degrees above its normal cruising temp while sitting at a red light, then it will likely continue to do that regardless of which thermostat you use. So if your cooling system has enough capacity to actually cool to 180 degrees at cruise (with a 180-deg thermostat), then you will likely see 195 deg while sitting at a red light. But if you sit there long enough (traffic jam), you will likely see the temp continue to rise, all the way up to the 210 you're currently seeing.

If you really want to see the idling temperature lower, you will have to move more air across the radiator at idle (a fan shroud, larger fan, electric fan or higher idle speed are all possibilities) or increase the size of your radiator (increased coolant capacity and increased number of fins).

Then again, it could be something as simple as your ignition timing.

 

210 with summertime tempertures is ok and will not cause any damage. I usually run 205-210 in stop and no go traffic with the ambiet temps 85+ degrees. I never run over 210 though.

 

210 is not bad, 225 would be a problem. but, on the contrary, i think dropping your thermo temp WILL help. if you drop your thermo temp 15 degrees, it should drop your running temp respectively, which will in turn drop your "stop & go" temp.

i was having the same problem, hot days in traffic the temp would reach about 210-220. i pulled the 195 thermostat out and dropped in a 160. now, my running temp is about 160-180 and my "stop & go" temp has yet to go over 200. also, if you have a manual transmission, it will help to rev your engine up a little when your stopped to get the water pump pumping faster and your fan spinning faster which should lower your temp almost immediately right in front of your eyes. definately pull out that 195 and swap for a 180. if the car is only a summer driver, go for the 160, it will help.

 

Where did you get your aftermarket shroud? Looking to add a shroud to my car and a clutch fan as I am having idle and low speed overheating issues.

d1

 

http://70.47.96.37/prodinfo.asp?number=402995

Maybe ?

 

I'd get rid if the chrome shroud and put the factory on back on, it will pull air through the entire radiator instead of one spot in the middle.

 

The reason I ask is that I don't have any mounting brackets or the correct top plate to install the shroud. So if an aftermarket shroud will do the trick and save me some $ at the same time, I am interested...

If it is as simple as buying a 1970 shroud and somehow customizing it to fit a car that was non-A/C to begin with, then I am ok with that too. Just need to see how it is done.

d1

 

If your engine gets too hot and if you can stand the heat......then turn on the car heat.......yep that's right! Essentially you will be activating a second albeit smaller radiator. I used to do this when I had a similar summer time heating problem in 63 Ford and 71 Challenger. Also, if you're running it turn off the AC.

Yes, lol you will sweat, but sweat less then worrying about damage to your engine if it gets too hot.

 

Make sure your radiator cap is in good working order and is of the correct pressure. For every pound of pressure you put on a cooling system it raises the boiling point 3 degrees.

 

Yup, this works real good. It even works if your thermostat is ever stuck closed, since the heater core is fed straight from the engine and bypasses the thermostat.

 

A few years back, one of the magazines did a test on the flexable fans vs. clutch fans, and found the flex fans didn't cool as well, and you lost as much as 15 HP over a proper functioning OEM clutch fan!

 

I agree with Blackgold the thermostat is there to get the engine to run at a predetermined minimum operating temperature. Once the temperature reaches the rated setting of whichever thermostat you have it opens, after that it has no consequential control of any temperature above that rating! So if you run a 160 deg thermo, and the temp reaches 160 it opens, it will still go to what ever temp the engine currently reaches in traffic.

If you need to get the operating temp lower than what you have then you need to increase cooling capacity, either by more air flow (or directing it in the proper place) or a bigger radiator.

Also, please note, as mentioned above, it could be tuning issues and/or an engine issue.

 

As far as thermostats go, there are high-flow thermostats that open up a bit larger than "regular" ones, for just a few bucks more.

I'd spend the $6-8 on one while looking into the other things mentioned.

- Eric

 

This might be a simplistic observation, but make sure your coolant level is up. I haven't read all the posts so this might have been suggested already.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions guys I will try these and see what happens. I bougyt the chrome shoud because it didn't have one at all when i bought it and it was a quick cheap fix for now, i would like to get the original shroud for it eventually.

 

If all your FACTORY STYLE components are in working order (assuming you did not raise the engine compression) you should not be experiencing any overheating issues. The GM designed cooling system works very efficiently. I use a factory clutch-fan combo, 4-core radiator and shroud, and have never seen my temp over 190 with 11:1 compression in my nostalgia drag car. I will say that I "changed" two items. First- I did buy a high volume water aluminum water pump (from Dick Miller racing), and Second- I took a tip from Andy Miller (Olds Performance Products) and use a restictor in place of a thermostat. The pump looks exactly like an original and the restictor is hidden so the appearance is factory style.

 

What is the correct coolant operating temperature idle/cruise for a 1954 Olds 98, with engine 324 cid & A/C? Thanks.

 

While I don't have an exact answer for your question, I can offer the following:
The Oldsmobile Chassis Parts Book recommends, for all 1954 models, a 160F degree thermostat (part # 563219) when using alcohol based anti-freeze, and a 180F degree thermostat (part # 563311) when using permanent type anti-freeze.
I have a 1955 Olds 324 cid with factory A/C. It lives in S.E. Louisiana which has summer temperature highs in the mid to upper 90s. I have been using a 160F degree thermostat with a 50/50 low acidic ethylene glycol mixture. The engine operates in the 160-170F degree range at all speeds. I wish that I could get my 1965 Olds to do that well.

 

To Ozzie:
I wanted to thank you yesterday, but was having logging-in difficulties; had to change password. My thinking also was a 160 degree thermostat. I got a Stant 45365. Thanks again.