Convert to hydraulic clutch?
I did mine because I kept breaking Z-bars and it gives more room for exhaust. Mine is a cobbled together mess, so I don't think I can offer much advice.
As far as pedal feel, it will vary with the equipment used. I'd suggest finding someone with a T56 conversion (very popular), and ask them if you can step on the pedal for research purposes. Chances are, they used some sort of preengineered kit with matched components.
They're all a pain to install. I haven't had one not leak.
It may be easier to just change the clutch to something with better feel. I have a McLeod RST organic twin disc, and I can't say enough good things about it. It's well worth the admission fee.
As far as pedal feel, it will vary with the equipment used. I'd suggest finding someone with a T56 conversion (very popular), and ask them if you can step on the pedal for research purposes. Chances are, they used some sort of preengineered kit with matched components.
They're all a pain to install. I haven't had one not leak.
It may be easier to just change the clutch to something with better feel. I have a McLeod RST organic twin disc, and I can't say enough good things about it. It's well worth the admission fee.
I’ve used hydraulic throw outs on two cars, 66 f85 with t56 and 75 manta with t50, both used ram bearings for Muncie/t10/etc and the pedal wasn’t any easier then my current two manuals with stock z bar.
I put a ‘Ram muscle car series’ clutch in my 70, it’s unbelievably easy yet to depress. Go to YouTube Muscle Car Campy, there is a video of my 70 car being driven and Jim Campisano talks about how easy the pedal is and how impressed he is with the clutch on the video. Somebody on here has surely done a hydraulic conversion and will pipe up soon if you go that route.
This makes much more sense than a powertrain swap. My old man has dealt with a stock clutch in a 71 vette for its whole life, and the springs in it are just silly compared to how normal the clutch grabs. It feels like a racing clutch to use, but acts like a normal clutch to the car. It's just really comically stiff.
I'm a fan of hydraulic throwout bearings. You can tailor the pedal force to whatever you want by changing the bore in the clutch master cylinder. A smaller bore will reduce pedal pressure but increase required throw.
This also works on brakes, correct? If one has a stiff pedal, going to a smaller bore brake master would lessen it, but also require more pedal travel for the same force?
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