71cutlass442

Professur

You back the castle nut off, but don't remove it. Let the control arm droop. Turn the steering so that you can see the flat spot where the ball joint enters the steering knuckle ... and introduce it to your BFH at medium speed. Several repeats may be required ... but I've not found that hitting it harder works better.

coppercutlass

Try to soak it with deep creep or pb blaster. Mine came off with little to no drama and my suspension was all original from 72. Idk if the proff. And I are talking about the same thing but hit the knuckle ring where the ball joint goes through on the outer edge. Just don't go nuts med to light blows will work better than big hits. Think of it like an impact gun impact shocks bolts loose too much wil break stuff too little won't do anything.

71cutlass442

The Castle nut has been removed completely and will not rethread... is this a problem?

coppercutlass

Yeah you may have to support the lower control arm s that when you shock the knuckle asembly loose the spring won't force things down out or possibly at you.

71cutlass442

ok ill put a jack stand unlder it... I blame the help for removing the bolt..

Professur

You hit the stud with your hammer, didn't you? It's not 'specifically' a problem ... but I leave it on so that when the ball joint releases, the whole shooting match doesn't unload the spring. If you can't easily get it back on ... chain the spring to the frame and put some blocking under the control arm so that it only drops a short bit .. an inch or so. You were going to need to chain the spring anyhow so that's nothing extra.

coppercutlass

I just did my whole front end and a regular jack not jack stand did the trick. I had the car on jack stands. I raised the jack up onto the lower control and left a very very little air gap so I can notice the drop. also plan on replacing that ball joint.

71cutlass442

Yea I hit it!! after I get the lower arm off im gonna go grab a new ball joint from the parts store

oldcutlass

It helps if there is pressure on the ball joint to release while your whacking on the steering knuckle part. Do you have the spring in a compressor, if not someone will get hurt? And do you have an assistant that can pry between the steering knuckle and the arm while you hit the knuckle?

copper128

If you have a floor jack, put it under the lower control arm, but don't jack it up. Leave it there when you hit the spindle to loosen the ball joint.
You can also loosen all the nuts/bolts - but dont remove them - on the shock. Since the shock goes through the spring, it will prevent the spring from flying out and hurting someone (you!). Then you can jack the lower control arm back up to take the tension off the shock so it can be removed. After that, you can very slowly lower the floor jack till the spring is released.

copper128

By the way, pounding on the ball joint stud is OK if the joint won't be reused, but you should remove the castle nut and thread it on upside down, leaving the nut flush with the stud end, before you use the bfh. That way you're not busting up the threads - so you can still get the nut off afterward.

oldcutlass

I've found that you can pound on the ball stud all day and it won't release. You have to pound on the side of the steering knuckle. Swing as hard as you can and just as it comes in contact release your grip on the handle just a little and let the hammer end hit.

Leaving the shock connected at this point is a very good idea with it hovering over the jack..

Octania

correct.

A large enough hammer is required. Too small a hammer will never do.
You want to execute a blow perpendicular to the axis of the ball joint, and you should leave the castle nut on to protect the threads if re-using the BJ is to happen.

brownbomber77

If you're just replacing it....I just use a torch and cut it in 2 places...but I guess at this point I have to assume you don't have access to an acetylene torch. At any rate, when the nut would be removed, I just jack it up, put the frame on a jack stand and put the jack cup like a 1/2 inch below the ball joint so it catches the control arm when the ball joint is released. The just start whackin' the SPINDLE, use some propane if ya got it.

71cutlass442

Ok after some serious pounding I knocked it loose!! Got the coil out and replaced..... But how do I go about removing the lower control arm ball joint. Is there a special tool or trick to make this process simple??

oldcutlass

The lower ball joint is a press fit, you can hammer it out from the top or use a borrowed ball joint press from the parts store.

copper128

Auto Zone will loan you a press.

Professur

You need one of these things. Link for show, not a recommendation. It's worth it to buy your own IMO as they're equally useful for replacing u-joints as they are for pressing ball joints in and out. http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-jo...cles-4065.html

brownbomber77

I suggest heating the area with a propane torch for a while and then level the control arm end with a jack or brick or something, then use your BFH to whack it out

Allan R

If you're looking at replacing the lower ball joint, you may as well do the uppers at the same time. This is much easier to do when you have the control arms off the car, so take out the springs you just installed...... And since they're off the car? Those front bushings can all be replaced. If they're original they're past due. Also check out the sway bar bushings and link kit. Chances are those bushings are toast too. But they're much easier to get at and replace.

I went through this learning experience 2 years ago so I understand what you're dealing with. Sounds like you could also benefit from a 1971 Chassis Service Manual and Assembly Manual? They're the Bibles of Oldsmobile repair and restoration.

Professur

This is what my father used to refer to as washing a big dirty mark up your arm. Doesn't make it less true tho.

Allan R

Never heard that term. We just call it the MAW's. (Might As Well's) I'm not saying he has to do all that work, it was just a suggestion to fix all the parts that may need to be addressed while the car is apart in the first place. Saves going back in later and undoing all the work that's already been completed. Of course safety, time, $$$, space, and needs are motivating factors too.

oldcutlass

And while your changing ball joints I would do the upper and lower bushings also.

Allan R

Hee hee hee Eric.... check out my first post....we think so much alike..

brownbomber77

Yeah, dammit....may as well just do the bushings too.... I like polyurethane. Torch out the rubber and stuff in polyurethane into the shells. Real easy stuff. Trying to finger froont suspension one at a time is time consuming and a real pain, especially dealing with springs. At least do the lower control arms and bushings. The uppers are easier with the rent a tool.

oldcutlass

OOPs, sorry Allan.

71cutlass442

ok ive replaced the ball joints as well. im not going to do the control arms at the time but I have another issue... my car seems to be sitting high on the passenger side. maybe by a half inch or so. Am I going to have to remove this spring again??

oldcutlass

You probably don't have 1 of them in the pocket correctly. They have to be lined up with the inspection holes.

kitfoxdave

:-) and it is a good time to blast and paint the control arms as well... and redo the brakes while all that is out.... NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

THE MAW's!

I had the front up high on jack stands, and I just lowered the control arms as far as they would go, and kicked the coil out while sitting behind the front wheel well... I thought it would be exciting, but one of the coils was broken and the other one was sagging a lot! The new moog springs (supposed to be the correct ones) had the car sitting up an inch or 2 in the front!

71cutlass442

Thanks again guys!! I have the springs in and I think it's pretty level now!! Classicolds is my new church!! All u guys rock!!!! But I think I'm going to be changing my name to "just my luck". I took the car out for a spin to see how she would ride and I swear I did something to the tranny!! Dammit dammit dammit!! Please check out my new thread about my tranny and lend a little advice!! This car is fighting me every step of the way!

Lakefoot

Glad to hear the springs went well enough, and that you are happy with the outcome.

Hope your transmission thing is easier to fix...

redoldsman

You probably don't realize you are responding to a thread that is over six years old. Don't feel too bad because we have all done it.

ColoradoOlds

Good read. I'm tackling this same issue with my 1963 Dynamic. Neither the top or lower ball joints will separate. Castle nuts loosened with a jack placed under the control arm, but not touching it. I didn't spend too much time on it last night, since it was getting late. This evening, I'll get a little more agressive, tie off the spring and might bring a torch home to help out with some heat.

fleming442

No torch, just a big, f-ing hammer

oldcutlass

With the shock still installed there is no need to tie off the spring. x2 on no torch.

armbrbr

^^^^this. I use a 5# sledge hammer, preferably with a short handle (or really good aim) and tie-rod separator.

Also as mentioned above, try changing the geometry by turning the steering wheel. That alone will sometimes pop it.

joe_padavano

Why do people always want to try half-fast solutions? A pickle fork is $10 at Harbor Freight.

oldcutlass

While a pickle fork works for most people, it's not good choice if you're just separating the joint and want to reuse the tie rod or ball joint. It will destroy the rubber boots. I've used the shop hammer method successfully for over 40 years and don't even own a pickle fork.

joe_padavano

Beating the crap out of the spindle isn't exactly conducive to reuse either. There are better tools like the jackscrew separator that the CSM calls for. I've obtained a couple on ebay. There are aftermarket versions available that don't cost as much as the solid gold Kent Moore tools.