Clock - Tic Toc Tach
#1
Clock Tic Toc Tach Removal, disassembly, testing
none Tach clocks have a point contact/spring design ( …which usually requires cleaning the point contacts and oiling/cleaning the spring to get them working...)..... Does the tic toc tach clock also having the point contact point/spring winding design?
Last edited by Del70; August 21st, 2012 at 03:34 AM.
#3
Thanks. I am finding mixed information from the service and assembly manuals . The assembly manual (page sec 12 page158) shows the tach lead from the negative side of the coil going to the tach lead on the gauge (brown wire). This connection is shown in the service manual as well. That matches up. However for the clock - Assembly manual shows the dash clock lead connecting to the right most wire lead on the back of the tach (from the images above…gray wire . The spade connector is not used (I was not able to find the a page where it get a connector. The service manual is calling the spade connector the clock lead. Which is correct? I am trying to test the clock first, then will try the tach…thanks again
#4
Tic Toc Tach Clock removal/repair
Any tips for removing the clock assembly from the tach/body. – I removed the two screws st the back of the clock in theory the clock now should slide out it away from tach body but it will not seperate . Concerned about the amount of force needed to side it forward. Again is theere a trick to getting it to separate. After removal, how does the clock face get removed , to get at the clock assembly? thanks
Any tips for removing the clock assembly from the tach/body. – I removed the two screws st the back of the clock in theory the clock now should slide out it away from tach body but it will not seperate . Concerned about the amount of force needed to side it forward. Again is theere a trick to getting it to separate. After removal, how does the clock face get removed , to get at the clock assembly? thanks
#5
I think I had to pry a couple of tabs to get the clock out but did not have to remove the face. I cleaned up the contacts, tested the clock with a transformer from a train set and it worked but then noticed one of the gears had a broken tooth so it always stopped at that point so I'm going to go with a quartz movement.
I prefer the original though as the second hand pauses as it moves where as a quartz movement is a consistent movement throughtout the minute.
I prefer the original though as the second hand pauses as it moves where as a quartz movement is a consistent movement throughtout the minute.
#6
Thanks. How did you remove/get the clock out of its case to gain access to the inside workings?. I assumed you have to first remove the clock/case from the tach body, then remove the clock from its case to get at the springs, contacts. thanks again
Last edited by Del70; August 21st, 2012 at 10:35 AM.
#7
like steve said if its like the speedo and other guages (i dont have a clock) you have to seperate the innards from the case by prying the metal tabs around the perimeter, I found that if I pry the top tab there is enough flex in the case to get by the other three tabs
#8
okay , I remember seeing three tabs that were part of the clock face plate. They are bent around securing the face to the case or a backing plate?. Sounds like once those tabs are bent out, the clock and the face plate as an assembly, can be lifted from the clock case..I will try it tonight. thanks
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