a/c compressor rebuilding vs new
#1
a/c compressor rebuilding vs new
I have a question regarding a/c compressors. I've read many threads on this site about rebuilding a/c compressors and the costs associated with getting it done.
My question is this...is there that big of a difference to rebuilding the original compared to buying new...other than price? I've seen costs for a rebuild averaging between $300-$350, where a replacement compressor, with clutch, could be picked up for as low as $140. For example...
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...21c+compressor
I understand if I was building a show car, I would want to keep everything as original as possible. But other than that I can not see the reason to spend more money. Is there something not quite right with the replacement compressors and clutches that I see on the web?
My question is this...is there that big of a difference to rebuilding the original compared to buying new...other than price? I've seen costs for a rebuild averaging between $300-$350, where a replacement compressor, with clutch, could be picked up for as low as $140. For example...
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...21c+compressor
I understand if I was building a show car, I would want to keep everything as original as possible. But other than that I can not see the reason to spend more money. Is there something not quite right with the replacement compressors and clutches that I see on the web?
#2
As long as the quality is good and you don't need a "restoration" then I would go with the lower priced one. Again, This is based on the quality being good for the lower priced reman. Nothing worse than having to pull apart the A/C system for a warranty problem.
#4
When you mention finding a "quality" one, do you know of some brands being better than others?
#6
Rebuilding can be a bit hit and miss, particularly the Harrison / OEM GM compressors.
The front seals never seem to last as long as they did new.
If you want originality the A6 ( big long black unit ) fits the bill but its twice the price of a quality Standon compressor and is no where near as efficient and draw more power.
Originality will cost more but look correct.
Scott
The front seals never seem to last as long as they did new.
If you want originality the A6 ( big long black unit ) fits the bill but its twice the price of a quality Standon compressor and is no where near as efficient and draw more power.
Originality will cost more but look correct.
Scott
#7
Other than the price, consider the warranty length and what parts rebuilders use.
I found out that CAA will charge 400 for a rebuild (+ I pay shipping both ways), they use the same oil slinging seals like the originals did, and only give a 3 month warranty (only half a TX summer). I have seen new units for 200 that have a 2 year warranty, providing you change the filter/drier. Not sure what seals they have tho
I am not sure if I will ever get mine done....
I found out that CAA will charge 400 for a rebuild (+ I pay shipping both ways), they use the same oil slinging seals like the originals did, and only give a 3 month warranty (only half a TX summer). I have seen new units for 200 that have a 2 year warranty, providing you change the filter/drier. Not sure what seals they have tho
I am not sure if I will ever get mine done....
#8
Other than the price, consider the warranty length and what parts rebuilders use.
I found out that CAA will charge 400 for a rebuild (+ I pay shipping both ways), they use the same oil slinging seals like the originals did, and only give a 3 month warranty (only half a TX summer). I have seen new units for 200 that have a 2 year warranty, providing you change the filter/drier. Not sure what seals they have tho
I am not sure if I will ever get mine done....
I found out that CAA will charge 400 for a rebuild (+ I pay shipping both ways), they use the same oil slinging seals like the originals did, and only give a 3 month warranty (only half a TX summer). I have seen new units for 200 that have a 2 year warranty, providing you change the filter/drier. Not sure what seals they have tho
I am not sure if I will ever get mine done....
#9
I am not sure if I will ever get mine done.... __________________
-Rob Young
Yeah, that's been kind of my position too. Since she's a vert, I never think about using the a/c. It's just that the compressor clutch is completely locked up so now if I try to put a belt on it, it just smokes across because the clutch doesn't spin (whether engaged or not).
So from a "need it" standpoint, it does not bother me. But, every time I pop the hood I keep looking over at that one thing (compressor) that does not work, and it makes me want to buy a new one anyway.
The best analogy I can think of is that it's like one of my kid's having a cold and I want to help make it better.
-Rob Young
Yeah, that's been kind of my position too. Since she's a vert, I never think about using the a/c. It's just that the compressor clutch is completely locked up so now if I try to put a belt on it, it just smokes across because the clutch doesn't spin (whether engaged or not).
So from a "need it" standpoint, it does not bother me. But, every time I pop the hood I keep looking over at that one thing (compressor) that does not work, and it makes me want to buy a new one anyway.
The best analogy I can think of is that it's like one of my kid's having a cold and I want to help make it better.
#11
Would the O'Reilly unit be lighter or more efficient (better gas mileage) than original?
#12
I'm not sure if the compressor is bad also. I read other threads and they said that in the case where the clutch will not turn at all (mine wont turn no matter if the a/c is turned on or not. It's locked up tight.) that sometimes there might be damage to the compressor also and it is just as easy to replace both at the same time, rather than make 2 jobs of it.
#16
If the pulley is frozen with the clutch disengaged the pulley's bearing has frozen. This can be changed with the compressor on the vehicle without losing the system's refrigerant. But you will need a remover and an installer tool to get the driven plate off & reinstalled. You will also need a conventional puller to get the pulley off so you can change the bearing.
If the pulley turns normally with the clutch disengaged, but does not when it is engaged, the compressor has seized. This is more serious and requires removal of the compressor from the system.
When the compressor seizes it is usually due to one of the pistons rotating in its bore and having its web jam against the swash plate. Re-builders often do not adequately address this situation when doing the rebuild.
The building or re-building is only as good as the technician doing the work.
If the pulley turns normally with the clutch disengaged, but does not when it is engaged, the compressor has seized. This is more serious and requires removal of the compressor from the system.
When the compressor seizes it is usually due to one of the pistons rotating in its bore and having its web jam against the swash plate. Re-builders often do not adequately address this situation when doing the rebuild.
The building or re-building is only as good as the technician doing the work.
#17
New AC
I used an A6 Pro ten aluminum new. More efficient, looks close to original and bolts right up without modification. Shop around, they can be found for 280.00 or so. In rebuilds, Global is known for quality.
#18
This is all a function of where you are geographically. The places I have lived I have seriously NEEDED the AC - Texas Gulf Coast where summers were 90+ degrees and high humidity and now in Phoenix where summers are 110+ and blazing, intense, fry-you-in-a-minute, eternal sunshine. No way would I ever drive a convertible without AC in those environments.
#20
High temps = okay. High humidity = okay. High temps + high humidity = NOT okay. Here in Illinois it's not unusual to have 90+ humidity with 90+ temps. Toss in some rain and you HAVE to have AC just to keep the windows clear.
But not tonight. We're looking at 5 below zero plus windchills
But not tonight. We're looking at 5 below zero plus windchills
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