I bought my 1971 Cutlass conv in 1984 & it’s spent the last 20 yrs in a garage. It started to leak gas out of the rubber hose, that connects the metal gas line to nipple of gas tank. I ordered a spectra gas tank, straps feul sender & rubber anti squeak gasket set ( AMD) for under the straps. I figured a nice clean reservoir to work my way out..Any suggestions? Should I replace those metal lines? My motor had issues back in day also? 350 chestnut motor w/Rochester 4 barrel..Crate motor in my future?

 

There's no need to replace the fuel lines unless you live up north and the frame is excessively rusty. When you install the new fuel tank disconnect the fuel pump and use shop air to blow out the fuel lines. Once the fuel tank is installed you can work on getting the car started. I suggest squirting a bit of oil in each cylinder and rotating the engine by hand a few times before you crank it. Really, I see no need to get a crate engine unless you have deep pockets. What issues did the 350 have years ago?

 

Everything Jesse said (^above^) but I'd disconnect the center coil wire and give her about 5-10 seconds of revolutions via the IGN SW after injecting some oil into ea. cylinder.

 

What is a 350 chestnut motor? Never heard that term put together with an Olds engine?

 

probably yet another derogatory Chevrolet reference.

 

The engine was blowing blue smoke out tail pipes..Also it was over heating. I was told at the time that I may have had a crack in my head gasket that was pressurizing my coolant system, but it’s been 20yrs. My dad would start the car up, periodically, runs rough..I’m gonna bring the green machine back to life

 

When I was doing research/working on cutlass 20yrs who, people referred to my 350 rocket engine as a gold motor, I was later told it was chestnut..

 

If you can get it started you can do a compression test to determine if the head gasket is blown. You can even do a cylinder leak down test before starting it to see if the rings, valves or head gasket is bad.

You can probably rent one of these from an auto parts store:

 

Humm, Im sure Im not alone hearing that one for the first time. You are describing color and not an engine family right?
68-72 Olds 350s are Gold. No Olds engines in the muscle and post muscle era were chestnut in color. The gold may darken due to age and grime and appear closer to a brown.

Do yourself a favor and perform a proper diagnostic on the engine and the car for that matter. Don't blindly throw parts at it. It will only lead to frustration and a lighter wallet. Always look for root causes first. This is a trained methodology but everyone can do it with the right info, patience, and YouTube.

We are here to guide you, just ask.

The 350 in your car should stay with it. Rebuild it if it's determined it needs it. Simple tools and methods will tell you if it's serviceable or needs to be rebuilt.

Then there's proper engine tuning, carb, fuel, ignition etc...Change ALL fluids...trans, diff, brake, coolant, power steering et al...
Send the carb out to get it professionally rebuilt.
Don't forget it will need a chassis inspection, new tires, front wheel bearing regrease and rubber brake lines with a full brake service at minimum before its safe to drive.

Several companies specialize in component rebuilding...carbs distributors, trans, steering system etc...

Many components are still readily available at the higher end local auto parts stores. Try to steer clear of the big box part houses as quantity is their game over quality most of the time. Many here seem to have decent luck with Rock Auto.

Quality restoration parts can be found here:
Fusick
Year One
OPGI
Good used parts can be sourced here in the classified ad sections(for sale and wanted).

Keep the questions coming. We want pictures and to see it and you safely driving down the road soon.

note: hang on to the OEM parts verses turning them in for core charges. Better off rebuilding the OEM parts or at least stashing them for future use.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

Hey the tank went in today unfortunately all cylinders aren’t firing. It appears that the two rear cylinders on the drivers side aren’t firing. I also need to purchase a booster. My master cylinder was leaking & I replaced it..now to find a booster & figure out why all cylinders aren’t firing. Anyone have the firing order in a 1971 cutlass supreme 350 Rocket 4 barrel carb?? One piece at a time. Thank you for your time and advise
Bobby
QUOTE=droldsmorland;1204119]Humm, Im sure Im not alone hearing that one for the first time. You are describing color and not an engine family right?
68-72 Olds 350s are Gold. No Olds engines in the muscle and post muscle era were chestnut in color. The gold may darken due to age and grime and appear closer to a brown.

Do yourself a favor and perform a proper diagnostic on the engine and the car for that matter. Don't blindly throw parts at it. It will only lead to frustration and a lighter wallet. Always look for root causes first. This is a trained methodology but everyone can do it with the right info, patience, and YouTube.

We are here to guide you, just ask.

The 350 in your car should stay with it. Rebuild it if it's determined it needs it. Simple tools and methods will tell you if it's serviceable or needs to be rebuilt.

Then there's proper engine tuning, carb, fuel, ignition etc...Change ALL fluids...trans, diff, brake, coolant, power steering et al...
Send the carb out to get it professionally rebuilt.
Don't forget it will need a chassis inspection, new tires, front wheel bearing regrease and rubber brake lines with a full brake service at minimum before its safe to drive.

Several companies specialize in component rebuilding...carbs distributors, trans, steering system etc...

Many components are still readily available at the higher end local auto parts stores. Try to steer clear of the big box part houses as quantity is their game over quality most of the time. Many here seem to have decent luck with Rock Auto.

Quality restoration parts can be found here:
Fusick
Year One
OPGI
Good used parts can be sourced here in the classified ad sections(for sale and wanted).

Keep the questions coming. We want pictures and to see it and you safely driving down the road soon.

note: hang on to the OEM parts verses turning them in for core charges. Better off rebuilding the OEM parts or at least stashing them for future use.[/QUOTE]

 

Buy a Chassis Service Manual (CSM).
The firing order is in raised numbers on top of the intake manifold.

 

The firing order on most American v8s is : 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2

Here's a good thread:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-hei-cap-9817/

x2 on buying a CSM.

 

Be aware the distributor turns CCW.

 

 

I was doing a little research, 20 yrs ago on how much horse power my 1971 350 rocket motor w/Rochester 4 barrel carb had. I thought I knew this answer, now I’m unsure. Also what are common things done to the rocket 350 to make it NOT such a slob?

 

Here is a link you can view to get the numbers you're after:

http://www.oldcarbrochures.org/North..._SPECS-21.html

 

For 1971, the engines were rated both GROSS and NET. GROSS = 260 horsepower and Net = 200 hp. Both of these are assuming a 4bbl dual exhaust setup.

The factory camshaft is very small:
.400/.400 lift, 250º/264º advertised duration, 186º/202º duration @ .050" lift

You can install a hotter cam but you have to be careful as the large piston dishes result in 8-8.5:1 compression ratio so it's easy to overcam the engine. Something around 204º @ .050" / 260º advertised duration on the intake should work well.

Most of these Supremes came with 2.56 gears from the factory, so the best bang for the buck is to swap out the rear gears for something in the 3.xx range.

 

My 1971 Cutlass Supreme conv, it has a 350 rocket w/Rochester 4 barrel carb, but only single exhaust. I’m assuming I will need a carb rebuild, should I think about doing the dual exhaust/headers when I rebuild:tune up carb? Any suggestions on carb/exhaust options to put a little go back in that ride?

 

You will be most happy with a professional Qjet rebuild. For dual exhaust I suggest visiting a local exhaust shop and having them quote duals in crushed aluminum pipe. There's no need to get stainless steel or mandrel bent on a street cruiser. Plus, the shop owner can suggest a good muffler.

 

Dave - You should begin your own separate thread regarding your own separate questions rather than hijacking this thread which pertains to Bobby's questions. Creating your own separate thread for your own separate questions provides the ability for others assisting "you" and retains history for "your" questions. Please create another separate thread with your own questions and delete your Post #21. Thank You.

 

As Jesse suggested you can have a shop perform a professional rebuild on your carburetor; but, there are also many rebuild kits available (~$45 - $65) you can perform the rebuild yourself (if you believe you have the ability). Rebuilding the carburetor w/ a rebuild kit is quite simple. It's really a matter of whether you believe you have the ability.

 

I'm interpreting this as you think a different carb may give a performance boost. As the others have said, the original QuadraJet (in good working condition) will be more than adequate for your needs.

 

Completely agree w/ Kenneth. Let's get your back two cylinders firing (I believe this was in this post or another post of yours), and then get your car tuned-up (Dwell, Timing & Air/Fuel Mixture) w/ your current carburetor. You might be very surprised to find out how well it runs.

 

Bringing my 1971 Cutlas supreme convertible back to life.i found some interesting stuff in glove compartment. Apparently this dude was original owner, he was in his 50’s in 86, so I’m thinking he’s gone, & yes I have bad sinus stuff

 

Very cool that you found the original warranty info.

 

as you said the back 2 cyl's on drivers side are not firing,it could be that the plug wires are switched as 5 and 7 are next to each other in the firing order.

 

I got my 1971 Olds Cutlas Supreme conv back running after 20yrs of being startedonce a month. The car obviously needs a tune up. Do they make one of these HEI Distributer cap setups for my 1971 350 rocket motor with 4 barrel carb? Thank you for your responses. Bobby

 

Bobby, you'll have to purchase a new or used distributor and remove and replace the entire unit if you truly want an HEI.

You could also simply convert your current points distributor to electronic with kits available from a couple or three companies. Pertronix, crane and msd offer these.

 

What do u advise? I was gonna gonna go out and purchase a new HEI MSD setup for my 71 Cutlass, 350 4 barrel. I just was unsure if they made one specific for my Olds, that and I knew nothing about HEI.

 

Just my 2 cents.......I would first get the car in good tune. Carb rebuild, plugs, wires, etc....Once all of the gremlins are fixed, then decide if an HEI is what you want or need,

 

x2^^ You tend to get ahead of the curve, IMO. Get your car tuned correctly first then decide if it's worth moving into the HEI direction.

 

I would prefer a good used american made GM HEI with new parts IF needed. I did this swap years ago. If something fails, I go to the auto parts store and get it quickly. With aftermarket parts you have to order them and wait for them to arrive when they fail.

I like Dave26 suggestion. No need to spend too much money at this time. Really all you gain with electronic is less maintenance not so much performance.

 

I believe everyone has their preference regarding HEI or non-HEI. Personally, I prefer stock OEM design features employing stock distributor, rotor, cap & contact points. I enjoy changing out the required maintenance items during tune-up.

 

I agree with the other folks. Get your engine running correctly with the points distributor first.

There isn't one specific to your Olds - they are made to fit all Second Generation Oldsmobile engines.

And as Don71 posted, you won't see any performance gains over a properly functioning points distributor setup. You just get rid of the routine points maintenance.

 

Got moisture in the motor, not sure the motor is staying..any idea how I can clean the head, just too see if cylinder 7 goes, at least for now. Blows, looks like a crate motor is coming

 

It does appear to be water moisture. Personally, I wouldn't charge off to grab a new engine quite yet. I'd first attempt to determine where/how the moisture entered the engine. I'd first remove the intake manifold and examine integrity of the intake manifold gasket (sealing) and the intake manifold ports. You can't say w/ any certainty if you have a cracked block or cracked head at this point (worse case scenarios). Your car, but I'd remove the intake manifold for visualization before I purchased a new crate.

 

You mentioned earlier that you got the engine running but it appeared cylinders 5 & 7 were dead. Did you ever do a compression test? I would do that before removing the intake or heads.

 

All cylinders are working except cylinder #7. There was no compression in that cylinder. No clunking noises, I was thinking of pulling the heads & cleaning them, where I’m at

 

There was a crack in the head gasket, I was pressurizing my coolant system, which was causing the motor to over heat. I think that’s why I was blowing smoke out tali pipe..