Bolt Question
Thread Starter
Cutlass Lover
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,587
From: Twinsburg, Ohio
Bolt Question
Ok guys..... tell me please - on the bolts under the hood, in various places, some have an "M" on them, some have what looks like an "anchor" on them, and some have like several circles on them. Some are plain. 
What do these symbols mean, if anything, and are all the ones with the same symbol on them supposed to be all in the same place/area??
Registered User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,627
From: Austin, Texas
The bolt head markings are manufacturer's markings. Use and placement could have been somewhat random on any given component but it's always nice to match up stuff, if possible, as you install each piece.
Registered
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,430
From: Northeast Ohio
The marks are from the company that made and/or supplied the bolts. If there are hash marks around the head those are strength ratings.
Anchor Fasteners is the one with the anchor.
I'm not sure what the "M" stands for, the several concentric circles in the head is also a factory type, there are other markings too, I thinks the T within a C is for Ternstedt Columbus?
If there are no marks on the head or it's an oddball mark it's probably not original, after a while you can tell if they're correct just by looking at them. There can be bolts marked differently of the same type on the car in different places , it all depends on who won the contract to supply a certain type fastener or for an assembly, plant preference, several factors.
The correct bolt type and finish are a major factor in a resto and often overlooked, or even worse, replaced with generic Chinesium ones.
I guard my can-o-old bolts like a pit bull, The Spoiled One got a few BTW Sandy.
If you want nice body bolts that look identical in finish and type but are unmarked or have a non-original mark they have them in the little trays in the bolt and screw aisle at Sears hardware.
I was scouting there yesterday and hood pad fasteners are 45 cents each and they had a ton of them, unmarked.
Why are you looking for trouble Sandy??
Anchor Fasteners is the one with the anchor.
I'm not sure what the "M" stands for, the several concentric circles in the head is also a factory type, there are other markings too, I thinks the T within a C is for Ternstedt Columbus?
If there are no marks on the head or it's an oddball mark it's probably not original, after a while you can tell if they're correct just by looking at them. There can be bolts marked differently of the same type on the car in different places , it all depends on who won the contract to supply a certain type fastener or for an assembly, plant preference, several factors.
The correct bolt type and finish are a major factor in a resto and often overlooked, or even worse, replaced with generic Chinesium ones.
I guard my can-o-old bolts like a pit bull, The Spoiled One got a few BTW Sandy.
If you want nice body bolts that look identical in finish and type but are unmarked or have a non-original mark they have them in the little trays in the bolt and screw aisle at Sears hardware.
I was scouting there yesterday and hood pad fasteners are 45 cents each and they had a ton of them, unmarked.
Why are you looking for trouble Sandy??
Moderator
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 18,062
From: Atlanta, Georgia
Blue,
I think our friend has finally gone over board. When ya start lining up the anchors in the same direction, it's time to call the guys with the white coats.
Reminds me of a pilot I used to know. He had a polyurathane on his concrete garage floor and used to wash his car BEFORE he put it in the garage. One day I went by his house and he was outside waxing his A/C unit.
I think our friend has finally gone over board. When ya start lining up the anchors in the same direction, it's time to call the guys with the white coats.
Reminds me of a pilot I used to know. He had a polyurathane on his concrete garage floor and used to wash his car BEFORE he put it in the garage. One day I went by his house and he was outside waxing his A/C unit.
Thread Starter
Cutlass Lover
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,587
From: Twinsburg, Ohio
The marks are from the company that made and/or supplied the bolts. If there are hash marks around the head those are strength ratings.
Anchor Fasteners is the one with the anchor.
I'm not sure what the "M" stands for, the several concentric circles in the head is also a factory type, there are other markings too, I thinks the T within a C is for Ternstedt Columbus?
If there are no marks on the head or it's an oddball mark it's probably not original, after a while you can tell if they're correct just by looking at them. There can be bolts marked differently of the same type on the car in different places , it all depends on who won the contract to supply a certain type fastener or for an assembly, plant preference, several factors.
The correct bolt type and finish are a major factor in a resto and often overlooked, or even worse, replaced with generic Chinesium ones.
I guard my can-o-old bolts like a pit bull, The Spoiled One got a few BTW Sandy.
If you want nice body bolts that look identical in finish and type but are unmarked or have a non-original mark they have them in the little trays in the bolt and screw aisle at Sears hardware.
I was scouting there yesterday and hood pad fasteners are 45 cents each and they had a ton of them, unmarked.
Why are you looking for trouble Sandy??
Anchor Fasteners is the one with the anchor.
I'm not sure what the "M" stands for, the several concentric circles in the head is also a factory type, there are other markings too, I thinks the T within a C is for Ternstedt Columbus?
If there are no marks on the head or it's an oddball mark it's probably not original, after a while you can tell if they're correct just by looking at them. There can be bolts marked differently of the same type on the car in different places , it all depends on who won the contract to supply a certain type fastener or for an assembly, plant preference, several factors.
The correct bolt type and finish are a major factor in a resto and often overlooked, or even worse, replaced with generic Chinesium ones.
I guard my can-o-old bolts like a pit bull, The Spoiled One got a few BTW Sandy.
If you want nice body bolts that look identical in finish and type but are unmarked or have a non-original mark they have them in the little trays in the bolt and screw aisle at Sears hardware.
I was scouting there yesterday and hood pad fasteners are 45 cents each and they had a ton of them, unmarked.
Why are you looking for trouble Sandy??
Excuse me sir..... The Spoiled One??? Thank you for sharing your can-o-old bolts with her!! She is worthy of every one you used. I was just curious.... as much as I go out and admire that beautiful engine now, I was noticing that there are different symbols on the bolts and wondered what that meant, if anything.
Inquiring minds like mine need to know, LOL!! So it pretty much was like a supplier thing. I like the ones with the anchor on them! Now, as my mother would say..... I have rest in my ***!
So what bolt would go here???? It has an anchor one in the middle, plain one on the end....
prettiestoneengineandtrunk001.jpg
Thread Starter
Cutlass Lover
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,587
From: Twinsburg, Ohio
Blue,
I think our friend has finally gone over board. When ya start lining up the anchors in the same direction, it's time to call the guys with the white coats.
Reminds me of a pilot I used to know. He had a polyurathane on his concrete garage floor and used to wash his car BEFORE he put it in the garage. One day I went by his house and he was outside waxing his A/C unit.
I think our friend has finally gone over board. When ya start lining up the anchors in the same direction, it's time to call the guys with the white coats.
Reminds me of a pilot I used to know. He had a polyurathane on his concrete garage floor and used to wash his car BEFORE he put it in the garage. One day I went by his house and he was outside waxing his A/C unit.
"They're coming to take me away, ha ha..." Jamesbo, you just make me laugh this morning!!!! It's just amazing to me now that the engine is so beautiful, how many things I'm seeing that look old and worn out! Larry just looks at me and says, "Oh For God's Sake"!!!I just blame it all on you guys and "mightaswell"!!! But I think he's about ready to make that call!!!
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,127
From: Rathdrum, Idano
Keep the Olds in the driveway with the front pointed towards the street and keep the keys in your pocket, when you see the guys with the white coats coming make a run for it. We'll hid you on the underground railroad for crazy car people they will never find you
Moderator
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 18,062
From: Atlanta, Georgia
Sandy,
Welcome to the world or restoration.
The more ya look the more ain't quite right.
[Like your rusty ole hood bumpers.]
Fret not, if you go the money honey........................ Fusick's got the part.
I hate to be the one to break this to ya, but there's another cycle you'll soon learn. Everytime ya drive it sum 'en get's not as good as it was before. Paper decals, etc start to peel, and little oil get's here or there, a little nick from a rock etc, etc, etc ad nausium
Truth be known, I do not enjoy my frame off restored 69 H/O as much as the other cars that are drivers. It's a PITA to keep it at the level I want it at.
And the "might as wells" have driven me to drink [Yes, it was a short trip]
Welcome to the world or restoration.
The more ya look the more ain't quite right.
[Like your rusty ole hood bumpers.]
Fret not, if you go the money honey........................ Fusick's got the part.
I hate to be the one to break this to ya, but there's another cycle you'll soon learn. Everytime ya drive it sum 'en get's not as good as it was before. Paper decals, etc start to peel, and little oil get's here or there, a little nick from a rock etc, etc, etc ad nausium
Truth be known, I do not enjoy my frame off restored 69 H/O as much as the other cars that are drivers. It's a PITA to keep it at the level I want it at.
And the "might as wells" have driven me to drink [Yes, it was a short trip]
Thread Starter
Cutlass Lover
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,587
From: Twinsburg, Ohio
You are funny!!! I certainly don't want to start drinkin, but I can understand, LOL!!I ordered those hood bumper things (I thought they were ugly too)and the roof rail weatherstrip yesterday from my good buddy Dave at Fusicks!!!
Figured I mightaswell have Don Sitts guys put them on too!!
Thread Starter
Cutlass Lover
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,587
From: Twinsburg, Ohio
Jamesbo... Now that made me laugh!!! That's a great idea... Next time I talk to Dave I'll tell him to check our site - it will save me a phone call! I'm gonna cut in on your commission check!
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,515
From: South River, New Jersey
speaking of Bolts and Restorations.
I have been going through the shop sorting out all the stuff i took off my olds over a decade ago, lots of bolts and most were corroded, well I ask my buddy to toss them into his tumbler ( 150 for the big one at harbor freight) let me tell you they came out looking NEW, he is no going to black oxide plate them.
Bolts are absolutely obscene costwise! Trailing arm bolts can be as much as 9 bucks a piece!!! and you need 8!!
Bolts are absolutely obscene costwise! Trailing arm bolts can be as much as 9 bucks a piece!!! and you need 8!!
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,515
From: South River, New Jersey
YUP!!! that probably works out to at least 4 oatmeal cookies (minimum 5 inch diameter with raisins and walnuts) or 3 chocolate Chip cookies (same diameter) per BOLT!! at the very minimum ( or two Ice cold beers for the whole shebang) LOL
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 9,483
From: Muskegon, Mi.
Registered User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 356
From: Minnesota
Damn 9.00 bucks a bolt , Sandy you got them a little cheaper than that ,
" Like Free "
Let me know if you need any more , I will go 7.50 each bolt plus shipping. If you buy 50 or more the price will be discounted by 10%
That is a great deal right ?
For another 1.00 per bolt I will spray them black (but cleaning and sanding before paint would not be included) that would be another 2.00 per bolt.
Let me know how many you want.
" Like Free "
Let me know if you need any more , I will go 7.50 each bolt plus shipping. If you buy 50 or more the price will be discounted by 10%
That is a great deal right ?
For another 1.00 per bolt I will spray them black (but cleaning and sanding before paint would not be included) that would be another 2.00 per bolt.
Let me know how many you want.
Thread Starter
Cutlass Lover
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,587
From: Twinsburg, Ohio
John.... I told you not to read that, LOL!! That was for trailing arm bolts (whatever a trailing arm is)... It shouldn't cost near that much for a little core support to fender bolt, LOL!! I would take 50 bolts if they were all black and shiny like they should be. Of course I wouldn't know where 50 bolts go! So tell me guys... seriously.... are her bolts supposed to be black, or how they look, minus the rust?? I've been looking at car show pics I've taken, and most bolts are black. This is making me sad.
What is the "correct" color black for bolts, as some in the pics are shiny and some are a flater black. Is it possible to paint them without taking them out??
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 223
From: Langley B.C.
If you are going to start a support group for those obsessed with bolt and fastener details count me in! I go to the wrecking yards in dry climates specifically looking for these things. I have discovered that there are at least 10 different variations of the markings on anchor bolts alone. There are 10 half inch on the rad support top alone and I am still looking for 10 that all match. I know that the assembly workers in 1970 just grabbed from whatever box of bolts was in front of them but..... (I still have not gone the distance to index all of my bolts) When they let me out, I plan that next.
Registered
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,430
From: Northeast Ohio
John.... I told you not to read that, LOL!! That was for trailing arm bolts (whatever a trailing arm is)... It shouldn't cost near that much for a little core support to fender bolt, LOL!! I would take 50 bolts if they were all black and shiny like they should be. Of course I wouldn't know where 50 bolts go! So tell me guys... seriously.... are her bolts supposed to be black, or how they look, minus the rust?? I've been looking at car show pics I've taken, and most bolts are black. This is making me sad.
What is the "correct" color black for bolts, as some in the pics are shiny and some are a flater black. Is it possible to paint them without taking them out??Why not take them out and paint them? Just do one at a time if you're afraid the car will come apart and fall on the ground?.
Car on the ground
Car on the ground
Lookin' like a fool with your car on the ground.
Thread Starter
Cutlass Lover
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,587
From: Twinsburg, Ohio
You know..... next time I see you, I'm gonna smack you really hard!!! You are such a shi*!!!!!!! Car on the ground.... mmm....mmm... mmm. Her engine is just so pretty, and the bolts are just so ugly..... Does Eastwood sell a black oxide paint?? I thought about taking them out one at a time.... I just might do that.... if they aren't like torqued on. Some guys get animal on things!! Or I could add it to my mightaswell have Don Sitts guys do it list!!
Tom.... You make me laugh! When they let you out, LOL!! Nice to know I'm not alone!
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,515
From: South River, New Jersey
hmmm paint???
Sandy how would you not damage the paint putting them back on??
I am seriously considering getting this kit from caswell, I have used their small nickle plating kit for my other hobby and it works great, I also use their buffing supplies and they are excellent
the black oxide kit is not "too" expensive, not 6.99 rattle can cheap but if you had to do a lot of bolts his might be the way to go
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm
I am either getting this tumbler or the bigger 18 pound one so i can put small parts in it ( like small brackets brake hardware etc ) if you were doing a serious restoration or more then one I think it would pay for itself, plus you can save the bolts and stuff from your scavenger parts hunt ( not you per se Sandy but somebody LOL) and package them up and sell them as restored bolts. this is what my friend used on mine and they are NEW looking, OK I digress, sorry for stomping on the thread
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93252
I am seriously considering getting this kit from caswell, I have used their small nickle plating kit for my other hobby and it works great, I also use their buffing supplies and they are excellent
the black oxide kit is not "too" expensive, not 6.99 rattle can cheap but if you had to do a lot of bolts his might be the way to go
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm
I am either getting this tumbler or the bigger 18 pound one so i can put small parts in it ( like small brackets brake hardware etc ) if you were doing a serious restoration or more then one I think it would pay for itself, plus you can save the bolts and stuff from your scavenger parts hunt ( not you per se Sandy but somebody LOL) and package them up and sell them as restored bolts. this is what my friend used on mine and they are NEW looking, OK I digress, sorry for stomping on the thread
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93252
Registered
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,430
From: Northeast Ohio
You know..... next time I see you, I'm gonna smack you really hard!!! You are such a shi*!!!!!!! Car on the ground.... mmm....mmm... mmm. Her engine is just so pretty, and the bolts are just so ugly..... Does Eastwood sell a black oxide paint?? I thought about taking them out one at a time.... I just might do that.... if they aren't like torqued on. Some guys get animal on things!! Or I could add it to my mightaswell have Don Sitts guys do it list!!
Tom.... You make me laugh! When they let you out, LOL!! Nice to know I'm not alone!
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,257
The reason that the bolts have different head markings is because the part numbers for bolts had 7-10 vendors on them.
When I worked on the asembly line at GM Framingham in 1972, I remember using bolts from many different manufacturers.
The bolts came in a wire container about 3' x 3' and 3' feet deep....Probably 100,000 bolts per container.
When I worked on the asembly line at GM Framingham in 1972, I remember using bolts from many different manufacturers.
The bolts came in a wire container about 3' x 3' and 3' feet deep....Probably 100,000 bolts per container.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 537
From: new zealand
[quote=Jamesbo;166566]Blue,
I think our friend has finally gone over board. When ya start lining up the anchors in the same direction, it's time to call the guys with the white coats.
Used to build top o the range aluminum conservatories and part of the finish was to have the squaredrive screws all with the square drive hole horiz top n bottom and ofcourse vert left n right..
Got the lad to check those !!
I think our friend has finally gone over board. When ya start lining up the anchors in the same direction, it's time to call the guys with the white coats.
Used to build top o the range aluminum conservatories and part of the finish was to have the squaredrive screws all with the square drive hole horiz top n bottom and ofcourse vert left n right..
Got the lad to check those !!
Thread Starter
Cutlass Lover
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,587
From: Twinsburg, Ohio
Well that's interesting, My442! I thought maybe I had incorrect bolts, and I can't have that, LOL!!
At least I'm an entertaining monster! Who would you guys laugh at if I wasn't around?? I did see those bolts in the Fusick book, but I don't want to put "generic Chinesium ones" on her. Think I'll have Don Sitts paint them. Problem solved!
Now on to my next thread for your entertainment.....
At least I'm an entertaining monster! Who would you guys laugh at if I wasn't around?? I did see those bolts in the Fusick book, but I don't want to put "generic Chinesium ones" on her. Think I'll have Don Sitts paint them. Problem solved!Now on to my next thread for your entertainment.....
Last edited by cutlassgal; Apr 15, 2010 at 06:37 PM. Reason: monsters fault
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 164
From: East Central Illinois
Painted, oxide treated, shiney, dull, or slightly rusty. Just like was said above.....you will eventually go mad over paying attention to the details. Just drive the car, enjoy it and be happy. Otherwise you will end up where I am now. I have a 1978 Z28. Owned it since my high school days. I decided one day to take it apart. And I mean all apart! Down to the very last nut and bolt. And then it was a long process to get it back together "just right", years! Now I own a museum quality 1978 Z28 with a 502 big block. It looks DAMN GOOD! It sounds awesome! It's very fast! But the sad thing is.....is that it never leaves the garage. I'm afraid to drive it for fear of it getting a rock chip or something happening to it. I'm well over $25K and THOUSANDS of hours of work into a car that is worth maybe $5K on the market. But it's mine. Just like I wanted it and it will remain in it's pristine state as long as I am profussing oxygen. Thank God I've got my '73 Cutlass Supreme to drive and ENJOY! So Sandy, the message here is that you need to drive your pretty one. Drive it right into the ground until the wheels fall off!
Thread Starter
Cutlass Lover
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,587
From: Twinsburg, Ohio
I understand what you're saying. I wouldn't want a car I was afraid to drive, though I do worry about rock chips! I love driving her!! It makes my heart happy! Things that still look original is part of their character.
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