I'm working to pull the body off my 65 Cutlass convertible.I have drilled holes above my body mount bolts and have been soaking the threads with pb blaster for a few days. Since it seems that almost everyone spins a cage nut, I'm betting I'll have issues with that, too. If that happens and I remove the the cage nuts (I've cut access holes to soak the threads) can't I just use a normal nut and lock washer, instead of welding in a new cage nut?
thanks!

 

I suppose this depends on what part of the country the car came from or lives in. Mine spun right out without soaking or anything special. Yes you can use a normal nut and washer, just you or the next guy will have to gain access if it needs to come apart again.

 

good luck

 

https://www.chevelles.com/techref/body_bushings.html

OF COURSE you need to weld-in another cage nut. If you don't, that bushing becomes un-serviceable without cutting open the body again.

And the whole point of a cage over the nut is to allow for a little bit of misalignment--the nut can move around some within the cage. Welding the nut directly to the body will eliminate this movement, so that's not a good option either.

Be careful with the original cage, remove the original bolt from the original nut, weld the original cage over the original nut. Use anti-seize on the new bolt so you don't have this problem "next time". Reduce torque on the bolt accordingly due to less thread friction from the anti-seize lube.

 

I've found that using an impact wrench rather than a breaker bar and a pipe greatly increases your chances of successfully removing the bolts without spinning the cage nuts. The impacts shock the rust loose.

 

my advice:don't worry about it til you break one. my iowa car all its life 66 i was dreading these bolts i finally got to the point that was all that was left so i just said to heck with it here goes nothing.all but 1 bolt came out.the one right next to the drivers seat.so i took a small cut off wheel and cut a square hole above the nut.i then got the torch out and heated the end of the bolt that stuck above the cage nut.and with a vise grip and a few heat cycles i got the broken bolt out,then i welded the square cut out back in,and seam sealed it.

 

I just wanted to finish this conversation in case a member searches this subject. Cage nuts are caged so they are serviceable from the underside only and move within the cage to make assembly of the body mounts and bolts more easily accomplished.
If your restoring your Cutlass and have to cut open the body to lube the cages, it's not at all detrimental to use a plain nut and washer, as long as you have no desire to separate the body and frame in the future. You would have to cut the floor pan again to access the uncaged nut. Weld the nut cage nuts if you want, but if you can't due to lack of a welder or a flammable area like behind the gas tank, it's doable with plain nuts and washers. The front four in my convertible near the firewall could easily be fitted with plain nuts and washers for example, as the cut outs in the firewall for them make them easily accessible without any cutting of the sheet metal.

 

Glad you got your project done. Sometimes you just have to do what you have to do.