Newbie question: What's the easiest way to 'fill' my brake system? '72 Supreme, disc front, drum rear, power brakes. Just put her more or less together.

 

Vacuum pump made for bleeding brakes.Costs about $50-$60 for a good one and well worth it.Or barrow one from a friend.
railguy

 

Hmm, I'll see if I can find someone that has one. Thanks.

 

There's an 'easy' way??? Wish I'd known about that earlier...
Have you ever considered something like this? http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.c...105_p_113.html

If the system is totally dry, you might want to open all the bleeder valves and start pouring fluid into the master cylinder till it starts coming out the bleeders. The gravity flow of BF from the MC should help force most of the air out. It can take up to 1/2 hour to see results so you have to monitor it. Then do a regular bleed to make sure all the air is out.

 

Yeah, the system's empty. Would it be advantageous to make sure it's completely empty first, given that I don't know how old the brake fluid is?

Could I speed up the process by pumping the pedal, or would that heighten the likelihood of getting more air in the system?

 

Assume the fluid is older than dirt. That's safe.

1. Sounds like the system's not quite empty. When you flush it, you keep bleeding it till the fluid changes to clear. Then you know it's new. Old fluid will come out looking sort of dark rusty colored. Be careful that you keep even old brake fluid off anything painted or rubber - it's highly corrosive and can dissolve rubber. Clean up any spills and flush with water. good idea to work with shop rags under where you're bleeding the brakes. Then you can just throw them away.

2. If you just open a bleeder and pump the pedal, each time you let up the pedal air gets sucked into the system. It's self defeating. That's why you either have a pressure bleeder like the one on the website, or you have someone help you bleed the brakes. Have you done this before or is it your first time?

 

It's my first time for anything car-related. Just to be clear, I had no intention of using old brake fluid.

I took the car apart before restoring it, draining what fluid I felt like at the time, but didn't make sure it was all out of the pipes. My father's around and could help me, but I'd have to know what to do.

 

What condition are the brake lines in overall? Decent or do they need replacing. I don't know if you have the body off or not. If you do, that's the best time to run brake and fuel lines..
I could try and describe it to you, but it's easier if you just watch this. This guy has a bunch of how to vids that are excellent. He also makes it easy for first timers to see and understand what's going on. Don't worry that he starts talking about 91 ford, the bleeding principle is the same for all cars. http://www.ehow.com/video_2328155_bleed-car-brakes.html

 

Most reliable way to do it right is the old 2-man method. I tried the cute "1 man" devices but none seemed to work well. Be prepared and have a quart of fluid on hand...

 

And one more thing. When you top off the master cylinder to do the bleeding MAKE SURE you put the top on and have some bale pressure to keep the fluid from spurting out all over your cowl. Go ahead, ask how I learned this....

 

I've done the two man way before,vacuum pump is far superior.I wouldn't do it any other way.And you do know not to get the fluid on any thing right?Make sure you have the directions you must put thread tape on the bleeder "nipples".
railguy

 

Brake lines looked just fine and serviceable when I moved them from one frame (of a running and tested '71) to the refinished frame of the '72. I had the frame off and inspected all parts for wear and tear. The entire project (including another hundred newbie mistakes and questions) is in the thread linked in my signature.

The video described the method beautifully; I'll shanghai someone to help me with it, and be done with THAT little hiccup on the road to, well, getting on the road. We'll see how it goes!

 

I've used and will use Speed Bleeders on my Vista here soon. Just put a piece of hose on the speed bleeders into a can to catch the old fluid and pump the pedal. You'll force out the old fluid and replace it with new fluid as you fill the brake master cylinder with new brake fluid.

The speed bleeders have a check valve that snaps shut when you release the brake pedal preventing air from getting in the lines. They work great and save a whole world of aggravation.

 

Woofy, where did you buy your speed bleeder and how much $$ are they?

 

Any good auto parts store should have them, they're about 12 bucks for a pair. The thread you need is 3/8-24, made damn sure you don't over tighten or strip the threads in the brake backing plates.

Use a proper six point wrench.

 

thx. re: 6pt? You're preaching to the choir here. Learned my lesson on those a long while back. Now have a complete set of metric and std box ends.

 

Then you should be set then. I use a 6 point socket to remove similar fittings for a complete grip around the fitting. Also, it probably would be a good idea to put some penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Aerokroil on the bleed fittings before you torque on them.

 

Has anyone come across Phoenix Systems bleeders? They push air out from the bleeder points at the brake. Saw it on Gearz, looks much simpler than the top end bleeders or two man method.

 

I really hope you're not talking about teflon tape, on the threads?

 

Yes it tells you to do that in the directions.I guess it keeps air from being pulled in through the treads and not allowing the vacume to work.
railguy

 

Makes perfect sense. If not using the tape, the vacuum bleeders would pull air in from around the threads and you will see tiny bubbles forever.

 

Bought a Vaccula a few years back and will never go back.

 

When I was little the electric went out,or the vacuum pump quite working right at milking time.Dad took a plug out of the intake of the old International C and hooked a vacuum line and ran the milkers off it. Always thought you could do something that to bleed the brakes.
railguy

 

When bleeding brakes the 2 man method should i start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder or does it matter ???

 

Always start at the furthest from the MC.