My inductive timing light has gone to that big timing mark in the sky.

I'd like to replace it with a better quality one - any suggestions?

 

Sure, but they're not inspired.

1. Open 'er up and check the wires where they enter the case - you'll often find one broken.
Easy fix.

2. I've gotten all mine at yard sales and flea markets. I can't recommend one that's worth fifty or a hundred dollars when I get them for five or ten.

- Eric

 

Get one that has a setback dial and is compatible with a MSD if you have one.

 

SETBACK for sure,since "tabs" only go to +14 degrees.

Total ,with mech advance,around 24 deg,

Also, does anybody out there know if it's okay to bypass the heater core ?
ie Connect Inlet hose to Outlet hose?


Original heat control was by opening/closing doors. Coolant flow ALWAYS thru core,even during our 95to100degF summers here in Louisiana.

 

Sure. Either shunt it back to the other side, or, even easier, install a valve and just shut it.

You can get hose-barb valves you can turn closed at NAPA, among other places, or get a vacuum-operated valve from an A/C car and run a switchable vacuum line to it, so you can turn it on and off at will.

- Eric

 

Thanks for reply ,MD.

I was concerned that either solution would change ORIGINAL DESIGN for flow pattern and may create hot spots
The shunt ( what i called bypass) will have much less resistance than the heater core. Coolant will then take path of least resistance thru bypass to water pump suction,resulting is less flow thru heads &manifold.
And a shutoff ,not part of original heater controls, will force too much coolant thru heads &manifold on wayto thermostat & radiator. Higher velocities may not cool as well.he Engine is best part of the Olds and i hate to mess it up. It survived 40years sofa!

 

You're over thinking it.

A bypass will behave exactly the same way as the original flow through the heater core did.

A valve replicates the original system in A/C cars.

There may be some critical components on these engines, but this ain't one.

- Eric

 

Thanks for all the input

My current light has an abs plastic housing that I would bust all to hell trying to get apart - I've tried. May just cut the wires off of it and let the kids play with it

So I've ordered a dial back light with a die-cast aluminum housing with the hope that should I need to - I can take it apart and re-assemble it.

 

ok,then the previous owner must have tinkered with it..
My Omega HAS original A/C evap, POA valve,accumulator cond & all with compressor missing when i purchased it.Will fix later.
Heater hoses have a mysterious pipe coupling which must have been where the shutoff valve was.
So what's better a bypass or shutoff? I don't want heat in summer,even with the "doors"closed.Thanks.

 

Half of one, six dozen of the other, really.

No difference.

Seems easier to me to put in a valve, but if you like the other way, that's good, too.

- Eric

 

I wouldn't trust the markings on the cheesy plastic **** of a 10% accurate potentiometer on a timing gun made in China -- unless I calibrated it first.

If you a scribe mark for 30 degrees on your balancer, you can just use a simple, no-dialback gun. Saves money, and it's more accuracte.

 

Or just use my handy Oldsmobile timing tape.

The site will compress it to the point of unusability, but if you e-mail me, I can send you a clear copy that should print the right size.



- Eric