Best radaitor
Best radaitor
Attention 67 owners, does anyone have any opinions on what is the best replacement radaitor?
Mind has a small leak in the drivers side tank. I will take it to see about repair, but just thinking ahead just in case.
It was rodded out before my build approx. 5 years ago. Its been running for a couple of years, but in use only since last September.
It dosent run hot by the factory gauge and would run on 180 in the garage while i was still building it. I dont have an aftermarket gauge in
it now, probably should put one in, as im not sure the factory gauge is accurate.
So just in case i need a new radaitor, id like opinions on what other are using with good results.
Thanks
Steve
Mind has a small leak in the drivers side tank. I will take it to see about repair, but just thinking ahead just in case.
It was rodded out before my build approx. 5 years ago. Its been running for a couple of years, but in use only since last September.
It dosent run hot by the factory gauge and would run on 180 in the garage while i was still building it. I dont have an aftermarket gauge in
it now, probably should put one in, as im not sure the factory gauge is accurate.
So just in case i need a new radaitor, id like opinions on what other are using with good results.
Thanks
Steve
I put a champion 2 row aluminum radiator in my 71 and the fit and finish were great for the price ($220). Since installing i havent gotten over 180 in any driving conditions, but i have a .030" over 2002 6.0L LQ9 and am running ford windstar dual electric fans. I'm sure they would have something similar for your application.
You have many choices, reproduction of original, aftermarket aluminum, and even aftermarket aluminum stock appearing. Depends on the look you want. A leak on a side tank could be an easy fix or you could have your radiator repaired and recored by a radiator shop.
I just had my original 2 row 71 rad recored to a three core unit at a local rad shop. They removed a few dents in the tanks as well. I was after the original look. Its expensive now as the cores are ordered in from Spectra Premium in Quebec and assembled locally. I am in Canada. The car cools much better now. I opted to paint it myself. $575.00 Cdn. about $450.00 in US money.
I vote for originality. Take it to a shop to have it repaired and recored. Looks much better than an aluminum radiator. The only time I think you should run an aluminum rad is if you're doing an engine swap for a resto-mod.
However, if price is a big concern, a new alum rad will cost less. There are fewer and fewer shops that will actually repair and recore these days.
However, if price is a big concern, a new alum rad will cost less. There are fewer and fewer shops that will actually repair and recore these days.
I bought a 2 row 1 " tube Be-Cool rad for my 76 350, works great, looks even better . I had my original 3 row copper core recored years ago and worked just fine when I pulled it out. Still sitting on a shelf. Wanted aluminium just for the look.
If your looking for the best, have your tank repaired or a complete re-core if you can find a rad shop that can do it. Aluminium is no better other than you don't have to worry about fins loosening up, rotting over the years.
If you keep it clean, flush, re-fill, change t-stat pull it and repaint when needed, it will last for many years. Worse case scenario..... tank cracks or solder crack separations at the seam, side rails loosen up and core expands due to heat expansion.(Rare)
Hope this helps!
Eric
If your looking for the best, have your tank repaired or a complete re-core if you can find a rad shop that can do it. Aluminium is no better other than you don't have to worry about fins loosening up, rotting over the years.
If you keep it clean, flush, re-fill, change t-stat pull it and repaint when needed, it will last for many years. Worse case scenario..... tank cracks or solder crack separations at the seam, side rails loosen up and core expands due to heat expansion.(Rare)
Hope this helps!
Eric
That does help guys i appreciate the comments and testimonials. Champion was the brand name i could not remember. Im not into "bling" but i do want it to run cool.
As i said im not real sure my original guage works. Ill hook up an after market one. Id like to have both the original gauge in the TIC TOC TAC and an aftermarket one working. Problem with that is the original intake only has provision for one sender. I may have to make up a TEE to connect 2 gauges. We have an old school radaitor shop here, ill take it there when i can.
Thanks again
Steve
As i said im not real sure my original guage works. Ill hook up an after market one. Id like to have both the original gauge in the TIC TOC TAC and an aftermarket one working. Problem with that is the original intake only has provision for one sender. I may have to make up a TEE to connect 2 gauges. We have an old school radaitor shop here, ill take it there when i can.
Thanks again
Steve
T splitters work for oil pressure. They don't work for temperature because it's not in the flow. Some people put a fitting in the upper radiator hose which you could do. I ran an aftermarket gauge in my Chevy for years in the TCS port in the right head, with the temp gauge factory in left. I removed it since I confirmed stock gauge was fairly accurate. You may want to run one temporarily and confirm the Ralley Pac's temp gauge, then be happy with just it. Or, if you don't mind the three Summit gauges under the dash, go ahead for permanent.
U21 was called Rocket Ralley Pac. The slang term "tic toc tach" was for the later versions that had the clock surrounding the tachometer where you would shift about 2 o'clock.
U21 was called Rocket Ralley Pac. The slang term "tic toc tach" was for the later versions that had the clock surrounding the tachometer where you would shift about 2 o'clock.
I'm running a three row Champion radiator with original shroud. I had to find a 1/2" shorter fan clutch to get the fan in the right place, but it needed one anyway. works great,. stays about 190 with the AC on.
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