Banish these *bleeping* Banshees!
#1
![Red face](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/icons/icon11.gif)
Like the designers of Boeing's B-52s, the folks at GM who developed the post-clamshell Buick Estates, Pontiac Safaris, Chevy Caprice Wagons and--of course--Olds Custom Cruisers did everything they could to make them strong, simple and, well, strong.
Many a competetor owes their demolition derby 1st Place trophies to these "Rock of Ages" (GM advertised them with that catchphrase. Honestly!) beasts, but they couldnt get ALL the parts right, even with a fourteen-year showroom shelf life.
My latest "error" has to do with the doors. We've had snow then sun then snow then... you get the idea. So its cold enough to pile snow on her then just warm enough to let it melt and drip into the front door hinge areas, whereupon it freezes again.
Sometimes you can pull the door open, sometimes it takes pouring warm water down the channel, but either way it sounds like the screeching and screaming of a dozen mechanical cats being forced down an industrial garbage disposer.
My factory manual asks for lube I lack and tools I dont have to do it "to factory specs", and seeing as i cant even precisely locate exactly where its coming from, the "spray and pray" method is probably a 50/50 shot at best.
I have to imagine that this is a pretty common malady, though, so I REALLY hope you guys will say something like, "Oh yeah. Just put Chemical X into Slots A through D and it'll be like brand-new."
You can, RIGHT?...
Many a competetor owes their demolition derby 1st Place trophies to these "Rock of Ages" (GM advertised them with that catchphrase. Honestly!) beasts, but they couldnt get ALL the parts right, even with a fourteen-year showroom shelf life.
My latest "error" has to do with the doors. We've had snow then sun then snow then... you get the idea. So its cold enough to pile snow on her then just warm enough to let it melt and drip into the front door hinge areas, whereupon it freezes again.
Sometimes you can pull the door open, sometimes it takes pouring warm water down the channel, but either way it sounds like the screeching and screaming of a dozen mechanical cats being forced down an industrial garbage disposer.
My factory manual asks for lube I lack and tools I dont have to do it "to factory specs", and seeing as i cant even precisely locate exactly where its coming from, the "spray and pray" method is probably a 50/50 shot at best.
I have to imagine that this is a pretty common malady, though, so I REALLY hope you guys will say something like, "Oh yeah. Just put Chemical X into Slots A through D and it'll be like brand-new."
You can, RIGHT?...
Last edited by auto_editor; March 21st, 2014 at 11:17 AM.
#3
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I've never run into that with any of my cars and they stay outside all year. Our climate is similar to yours so it's puzzling. ^^^ is what I'd do too. Couldn't hurt to spray down the hinge area with Water Displacement Formula 40 in the meantime.
#5
The problem I have in those conditions is not the hinge or latch freezing, it's the rubber weatherstrip freezing to the door frame. Periodically wipe the gasket with silicone lube to mitigate this.
#7
Hinge photo
Simply look at the hinge while opening and closing the door and lube the parts that have relative motion with WD-40. The photo highlights the typical lube points on a generic GM hinge. Pay attention to the detent roller and the "L" shaped arm that presses on the spring.
![](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/attachments/general-discussion/87849d1395436118-banish-these-bleeping-banshees-hinge.jpg)
#8
I used an acid swabbing brush and white lithium grease on the roller and guide, a good pentrant on the hinge pivot, and door pin. I agree with Joe on the silicone for door seals, but you have to be careful to wipe off the excess as it will transfer to clothes.
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