bad ignition switch?
June 20th, 2015, 08:20 PM
#41
eric thank you I am cleaning up for the night and i had a surprise I found. I found a extra neutral switch in my electrical extra box m and h by mistake sent me a extra one ,hey I finally received some luck here and with them. I will replace this tomorrow by the way it has been a while what size socket do I use to replace it on the colum.
June 20th, 2015, 08:28 PM
#42
eric if you are online just say what size socket I need to replace it getting under there with my car is also a seat removal situation and space is limited for ins and outs. thank for this info we all need help sometimes but some will not ask. I respect people with more info and consider everything a higher learning process. I will do my part where I can to help with solid craftsman knowledge that is well thought out and proven! I also was wondering if the s terminal to live terminal was for the ignition switch I changed this 14 years ago or so with a true gm part not aftermarket.
June 20th, 2015, 08:37 PM
#43
fantastic knowledge and thank you.
I found a extra nss in my extra electrical box and found a few extra non needed gromets m/h sent it by mistake at no charge to me, I ordered a full kit from them plus air conditioning wiring. by the way how is Houston doing.. I spent some time down there and loved the women there and still have friends in dallas also lots of strip clubs there.
June 20th, 2015, 08:39 PM
#44
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
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I really don't remember which socket size that is, but my first guess would be 5/16".
Could be 1/4, could be 3/8.
If you just jumper the terminals with a bent paper clip, though, you can eliminate that as the problem.
Glad to hear you're still around after that close call. A good friend of mine beat a nasty non-Hodgkins lymphoma a few years back, and was extremely lucky to do so. He's been declared free and clear after several good PET scans.
I agree that you need to keep doing what you love, because that's what keeps you in the game!
- Eric
Could be 1/4, could be 3/8.
If you just jumper the terminals with a bent paper clip, though, you can eliminate that as the problem.
Glad to hear you're still around after that close call. A good friend of mine beat a nasty non-Hodgkins lymphoma a few years back, and was extremely lucky to do so. He's been declared free and clear after several good PET scans.
I agree that you need to keep doing what you love, because that's what keeps you in the game!
- Eric
June 20th, 2015, 08:47 PM
#45
dam right I went through it and still kept going hard 2 operations in 3 weeks plus bs and working hard at the same time until it stopped me for a while. I will still kick hard until it re appears or not I have seen too much of the us and my eyes are always wide open and nothing will stop me. I will go in my boots and leave a good looking corpse and the olds is my real bucket list that I finished earlier and will be enjoying to the max until that point that I get stopped flat. thank you knowledge is power and you also have it lets roll n go.
June 20th, 2015, 08:53 PM
#46
by the way I took zero pain killers just antibiotics and common sense the olds was my personal drug and the joy of doing a hundred plus and the feelings and sensations are unexplainable to some who never have done it is a powerful natural high that is unobtainable anywhere else! getting screwed up on bs ruins your powerful confident self in the future so why play with it! I check in usually once a week maybe this Monday also good luck with work and everything else and thank you again.
June 21st, 2015, 09:07 AM
#47
it goes on I removed the switch at the base of the steering colum and it had no wires hooked up to it or in sight either. I have no reason why. I did not remove the wires at any time period after the original replacement guys. now I need to ask it was cranking with no fire a couple days ago then no crank after, I tried the s terminal to live post and the starter turned for a second then I cut it imediatley.
June 21st, 2015, 11:15 AM
#51
the car when it was redone had a new dash harness if needed I can and will with several evenings this week and a schematics remove it and have m/h re solder the purple wires in place. I seriously do not know how that could have happened I drove the car for the last almost 3 years without a issue and everything until this week was fine period. until I would say Tuesday night. do you think it will have to be?
June 21st, 2015, 11:50 AM
#52
like I said if you think it is advisable to remove and have m/h re solder the purple wires in place it is not a hassle with a schematics and time this week and Saturday I will finish it. I will then send it back they were there before seriously otherwise I would have had problems for the last almost 3 years in my introduction post in 2012 I stated that it had to sit for awhile hence my battle with multiple c problems from different jobs on the road that I did to survive like oil field work for instance. just post if you think it would be advisable this will take time and I still want to ride by july 15th again and salvage this summer through October 15th. 3 full mths is better then nothing. the dash harness is a lot of work but I am always willing to get my hands dirty to finish to ride. I will check back around 4 pm my time.
June 21st, 2015, 12:00 PM
#53
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Hi. Sorry, I'm at work now and not likely available until after 10:30, but I will say "that doesn't sound right."
Something's not adding up.
Maybe a few pictures of this arrangement would help.
- Eric
Something's not adding up.
Maybe a few pictures of this arrangement would help.
- Eric
June 21st, 2015, 12:56 PM
#54
you are absolutely right it does not add up fantastic till Wednesday crank and firing. eric if you suggest for safety reasons I will with no problems remove the dash harness and have the purple wires put back in by m/h plus put in the new nss. this is baffeling but hey that is what a man has to do sometimes and bite the bullet and the cost will be minimal mostly shipping. I am not creating drama here either but I would not put it past my ex wife and a current boyfriend when I was gone sometime or not around she rightfully received the short end of the stick when I annulled the marriage 6 mths later and the judge agreed on my side. she new this was my baby and sometimes baggage catches up with you that you do not really cause but have to deal with. by the way for safety also I will replace the ignition switch 14 to 15 years is a pretty good amount of time for it to wear. just say for safety remove it other wise this whole thing would be twilight zone **** from what I gather.
June 21st, 2015, 01:38 PM
#55
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You definitely need to have a neutral safety switch. I'm pretty cavalier, but I wouldn't drive a car for more than a few days without one.
Next dumb questions:
Is this a floor or a column shift?
Automatic or standard?
What year is the car (Sorry, I've lost track)?
Some years / models have the NSS in the console or under the car, others at the base of the column.
- Eric
Next dumb questions:
Is this a floor or a column shift?
Automatic or standard?
What year is the car (Sorry, I've lost track)?
Some years / models have the NSS in the console or under the car, others at the base of the column.
- Eric
June 21st, 2015, 02:27 PM
#56
floor shifter hurst it was there when I bought the car years ago. automatic trans and t he year is a 71 and yes the nss switch was at the bottom of the colum with no wiring what so ever.
June 21st, 2015, 02:37 PM
#57
and by the way the car would before only start in neutral or park and only shift when the car started now it moves into gear at any time. l I said seriously twilight zone **** none of it adds up and doing the nasty does not bother me sometimes you just have to and I know I did not pull those wires or etc it would have stopped me and I know that that is not something I would play with and just do it right plus that is a fire hazard and I like my skin.
June 21st, 2015, 03:18 PM
#59
I have responsibilities today with my dad I have to barbeque now . please answer if you think I can safely drive without a nss, no wiring and no reason to check or maybe the ignition switch it did fire until Wednesday evening or for safety reasons pull the harness and have m/h put back in the wires that I do not have a reason of being gone. I want to get this running before july 4th for a day of pride. by the way considering the no nss wiring being gone please advise and give the outcome either way of testing the ignition switch with a test light. I appreciate the advice and just want to get this right and safely. there is no nss in the console or under the car guaranteed.
June 21st, 2015, 03:32 PM
#60
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
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I can't believe that there's no NSS wiring - it just doesn't make sense.
As far as driving it: Sure, that's fine. The danger is in STARTING it.
Once it's running, you're fine.
Just be really sure that you're in Park before you put your meat hooks on the ignition key.
- Eric
As far as driving it: Sure, that's fine. The danger is in STARTING it.
Once it's running, you're fine.
Just be really sure that you're in Park before you put your meat hooks on the ignition key.
- Eric
June 21st, 2015, 06:08 PM
#62
my last post did not post I guess. no nss on the shifter I checked and no wires to or from the nss on the colum and no purple wires around or any on it when I removed it . I could do with out the nss as long as I would not have a fire. I do not have a problem with dropping the dash harness and getting the wires to the nss attached again, it was new for old age purposes and safety a good amount of years back. I was also wondering if now replacing the ignition switch would help and last with no probability of fires and work. heat and time now are not on my side what do you think I could drop the dash harness in mid September and have it back in about a mth right now it could take real time and the heat is here within a week, so will I be safe or like I said do the hard way and lose most of this driving season,this option would not be a problem to do but then the season is mostly over by the time it arrives and goes back in. I respect your knowledge and need it for safety and have learned a lot about testing these circuits at the same time and that is a plus.
June 21st, 2015, 06:14 PM
#63
by the way I am for real no wires at the nss and I did not mess with them plus the car still will not crank so it is the ignition switch guys? I can have that part here in under a week and on by the next weekend and this all does not make sense on the wiring to me either.
June 21st, 2015, 06:17 PM
#64
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
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What color is the wire on the S terminal of the Ford type solenoid feeding the starter? Can you trace that wire back? That wire should be the one that runs from the NSS and then back to the ignition switch.
June 21st, 2015, 06:21 PM
#65
just post here if I need to get a new ignition switch and that it will not burn out from the no nss switch issue. I really have no problem with pulling the dash harness to do it correctly and I did not see the post from eric from maine earlier before I wrote my notes. I am baffled also guys at the no wire issue when they were there when first wired up. they are solid clips with regular connectors and no issue to replace. I use them all of the time on my other hobbies and have no issues but if I was to replace these clips where are the wires is my first concern.
June 21st, 2015, 06:33 PM
#68
Administrator
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Location: Poteau, Ok
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I'm not sure if its the switch yet. Your starter cranked when you connected the 2 cables together on the Ford solenoid, so its wired similar to the drawing I posted earlier in the thread. You have to trace that red wire back under the dash and see where it comes from.
June 21st, 2015, 06:55 PM
#69
gotcha eric I will trace that red wire back to the dash and test it for continuity like I said earlier this information is in valuable I will post tomorrow at 7pm central with the continuity test it could be that wire also. the harness removal will not be a problem but why if not needed. I have to finish a lawn project so I do not get a fine they are sticklers where I live and the fines are a half g.
June 21st, 2015, 07:41 PM
#72
I am back the crane wire is to energize the crane ignition 1 to the fuse panel ignition and 1 to the battery input side of the remote solenoid. it is a lot easier then being on the starter post thisis,the reason for the extra solenoid oomph and access. the box has a trigger system and a computer code to read and it shows through these codes that it is functioning and it is.
June 21st, 2015, 07:45 PM
#73
by the way my starter is a mopar design I see you had one and you know about them. but it is fitted for a gm block,aftermarket and fantastic design. now after I check for continuity on the red wire and obvious issues breakage etc anything else to check?
June 21st, 2015, 07:54 PM
#74
I found the s terminal of the old solenoid pulled and broke and it had no reason to be that way and I mean none it worked fine and was moderately tightened before by my standards, I have been weightlifting for a long time with no additives just discipline and proper diet so my moderate is tight to most. it was not broke before hand I promise you that. I had the car aligned a few weeks back and had a small exhaust weld done. I had this done at a reputable shop. I do not due these things at home.
June 21st, 2015, 08:10 PM
#75
by the way everyone at the shop loved my car and were obviously envious. I will check in at 7pm central tomorrow I just thought you might still be around now and maybe something else could be checked. I had to finish the lawn earlier and you were online I want to get to the bottom of this asap.
June 22nd, 2015, 06:20 AM
#76
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,788
With reference to the picture above. Make sure your starter is wired the same way and you need to have power to the S terminal on the part labeled Ford Solenoid when the ignition key is in the start position. Your issue is that when you turn the key to start its not there so it wont activate the starter.
The I terminal on the Ford Solenoid replaced the R terminal on the stock starter. It works as both a resistance wire bypass and will provide 12v to the ignition coil only when the key is in the start position and the solenoid is activated. If the crane unit requires a full 12v then the original resistance wire is capped and not connected and a new source was added from the ign terminal in the fuse box to the coil+ to supply power when the key is in the run position.
June 22nd, 2015, 06:43 AM
#77
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
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There have been so many modifications done to this car, and we still have exactly zero photographs or other objective documentation, and there is so little punctuation in the responses, that I am beginning to think that I really don't know or understand what is going on.
I think that short of actually seeing this car, I will not be able to reliably figure this problem out or give quality advice.
And if anyone other than your wife is telling you what to do with your lawn, you need to either tell them to shove it, or move somewhere else.
- Eric
I think that short of actually seeing this car, I will not be able to reliably figure this problem out or give quality advice.
And if anyone other than your wife is telling you what to do with your lawn, you need to either tell them to shove it, or move somewhere else.
- Eric
June 22nd, 2015, 11:13 AM
#78
eric I took a half day off and skipped lunch and yes I agree I should tell the town to shove it with there regulations but I have to live here and deal with it they can be a pia. I traced the red wire and it lead to the voltage regulator area . I have a real surprise here today the car cranked with the key and momentarily fired also. I seriously found pry marks on the voltage regulator,screwdriver type and the cover was re-glued back on and fell off in my hands. I also found the connector half pried off and re-connected it then it cranked and fired for a second if this info helps with the situation lets chat I have a half day off as a personal day today. thank you your info was very solid in finding the problem liked I said it was at a alignment shop a few weeks back and the s side of the solenoid was pulled and broke before I replaced it.
June 22nd, 2015, 11:24 AM
#80
I am not one to quickly point fingers but it seems very weird and like I said twighlight zone s--t or this was caused just because. I had to look at my ex-wife as a hassle and she was a hassle and gone for that reason I am not radical I just look at all angles we know we have some things that others want like our cars and others do get envious.. This wiring was solid before and I had zero hassles with it. thank you for the proper knowledge to diagnos this I have learned a deeper way and have it written down. so now crank and some fire and the voltage regulator cap fell off what do you think the bad regulator cover could have let moisture under it and the clip was loose.
