Went to go to a local car show last Sat. Car would not start. It's a 70 W30, but it has HEI. I had no spark, and I replaced the module it just under a year ago, and I doubt it has more than a 100 mile on it. I bought the best one Standard make, USA made, and 5 year warranty, but I could not find my receipt,so just bought a new one,and car started right up. Any one else have problems with modules going bad by just setting around, not driving car much, going bad?

 

I fixed your double thread.

Yes, I've had quite a bit of difficulty with poor quality HEI modules. I always keep a spare in my glovebox. I was actually thinking of going back to points.

 

Do yourself a favor and use this,
Breakerless SE Single Wire Ignition
It is the best I have ever seen. I have had MANY others, they all fail.
This will not fail.

 

Check your engine grounds. Bad grounds will eat modules.
Did you use the heat paste under the module?

 

Cheap rotors will burn thru and kill the modules

 

Yes I used the jell on the bottom. Also about the single wire brake less unit, I bought my son one last year for Xmas. He has a 68 W30, and was using a Pertronix unit. When he put it in, he is like me does not start the car often. He had to use starting fluid every time to get it started.. He went back to Pertronix, as what was wrong with his , was one of the contact came off, put new ring on and runs OK now.

 

Thanks for fixing the double post, I could not figure out how to do.

 

I have a factory 1979 HEI with the OEM module and it’s still working well.

 

The original GM HEI modules were very high quality. A have a Sun Distributor machine and you can see how well an OEM module controls dwell, even when they are very old. The aftermarket is a very mixed bag. I have seen good performance and results with the MSD Modules. Here's a link to one of them: MSD 88362 Circle Track HEI Distributor Module (holley.com)

Also be sure to use the heat dissipation paste on the mounting surface and never use dielectric grease!! The paste contains TiO2 which has the right properties to conduct the heat away. It is often referred to as heat sink paste. Just apply a thin layer and bolt it down. Also, I have seen where a bad ground in the distributor system will destroy the modules. Check the ground strap inside the cap. And one last consideration is if the tach connection ever sees ground the module will fail as well.

Good luck.

Rick

 

Precisely why I always use GM/Delco parts for ignition and sensors any time I can. And yes, I concur with 1Restorick, use HEAT SINK paste film, not plain dielectric grease for the module to sit on. I use the Super Lube brand, but any good heat sink paste should work. If the module comes with a little pack of heat sink grease, then use that.

Heat Sink Thermally Conductive Compound - 98003 (super-lube.com)

Assuming you're using the 4-pin module, look around for ACDelco D1906 with GM p/n 1875990. It's the OLD SCHOOL Delco stuff that's not made in someone's sweatshop overseas.

 

Always ALWAYS carry a spare D1906 in the trunk. I have had these go on me several times, and no parts store will have them when you break down. And they croak without warning. I got into the habit for a while of stocking up on NOS ones (I could tell how old they are by the color of the boxes). All 3 of my 79's have a packet in the trunk with an NOS D1906, heat sink paste, and a screwdriver that will get the distributor cap off.

I remember very well when one of these died on me, it seemed like the engine was cranking a slight bit faster than usual and just not starting. I was 125 miles away from home, it was Sunday afternoon (of course), and no one was open, let alone anyone having the part. Never again.

 

You are correct if you are referring to GM/Delco parts prior to the mid 90s before GM divested their parts divisions. ACDelco after that uses parts from the same sources as all of the other aftermarket suppliers.

 

Of course I'm correct. And I already stated the GM part number to look for. Supersessions were made in Singapore and wherever else.

 

I drive my 66 442 everywhere our race car goes,and have put 50K highway miles on the car in the six years I have started driving it seriously. I always carry in the trunk my tools,which I can fix anything on the car with,a water pump,a complete spare distributor w/cap and wires,spark plugs, a coil and a set of points, two rocker arms and two pushrods,head gasket set,alternator,belts and all cooling hoses,bolts,nuts etc. So far I have not had to get into my parts stash while out on the road.
We will run 8 or 10 hours one way (sometimes longer) only stopping for fuel.Parts stores are basically useless for these cars unless you're a really lucky guy in a tight spot and they actually have what you need.

 

^^^THIS^^^

The guys at my local parts store have said they like it when I come in because I know exactly what part number I need. The only problem is that they generally have to order it from their warehouse or out of town.

 

I always look up parts myself before going to the store. Gotta make sure they’re giving me the right parts so I don’t have to go back and wait on shipping again.