I removed my Mallory Breakerless distributor due the current module giving issues and the new module being toast. I put in a HEI that is basic but WORKS. I also replaced the electric fans with the original 4 blade mechanical fan. The stupid controller turned on when it felt like.

 

One of the nicest things about the older vehicles is the total lack of technology. The only thing that is electronic about my 67 is the HEI dist. I don't have the stereo in it yet, gotta get some speakers for it. Everything else is totally factory 60's. You can almost feel the technology of daily life melt away when you drive it. All that being said, I have plans for a lot more electronic upgrades once I get the interior in decent livable condition. It is a shame that some of the modern upgrades like the electric fans don't last like the 50 year old original. That the electronic ignition systems are not as reliable as the original points of or even the factory HEI. It can take a bit of work to get the HEI to respond like the performance ignition systems but they do work.

 

I have the Accel coil, brass cap and low ohm contact button. The Accel coils are very reliable, had a HEI one for nearly 20 years. I did have an ignitor 3 HEI module, it just died. I also had a MSD HEI module die, it did last years however.

 

Factory parts are VERY thoroughly tested for a long time under a wide variety of environments. Few if any aftermarket companies can afford the cost or time of such tests. Of course, today, many of the new "factory" replacement parts (are you listening, AC Delco?) are not made in the US, and quality has suffered dramatically.

 

While I agree that some of todays parts are sometimes questionable, a lot of problems people have with parts are self inflicted. People just don't read the instructions and a lot of assumptions are made that cause parts failures when adapting newer tech to older cars.

 

You mean like the fact that the MSD box wiring diagram shows that it has a dedicated tach output wire?

 

Yes, Joe that is the other issue, so many replacement parts for durable factory parts are junk. This Mallory module looks different and sits different, the pick up is lower. I am pretty sure all the MSD stuff is overseas now. Then there is the Summit mini starter where if you overtighten the battery connection, it becomes a welder, just a poor design, you need that connection tight. I am selling my 88 and most of these parts are going on it.

 

"Anyone tried of issues with aftermarket parts?"
YES, sick and tired....AND the largest issue IS....drum roll please...chineasium JUNK.
60s OEM = 100% made in the USA.
99% of current aftermarket = chinesium junk.
Always ask for C of O country of origin.
Strides are being made to correct this imbalance. Its up to us to assist by not buying the junk.
Inferior quality, inferior safety, inferior period.

 

Sadly, you often don't have a choice anymore. I paid significantly more for the NAPA Premium grade brake drums for my dually. They were STILL Chinesium and STILL out of round right out of the box.

 

Thats one... Then there's the normal stuff we see here repeatedly:

Voltage requirements, battery vs switched power for memory, secondary voltage requirements in the start position for older cars when installing newer ignitions.

Not holding the base nut with a wrench while tightening the outer nut on component power studs, IE starters, generators, or alternators.

Jumping into electrical mods without first reviewing the schematic to understand what the system does in the first place.

Trouble shooting by throwing the new parts at it and burning them up over and over, not realizing that its not a manufacturers defect but something else causing the problem.

Or the misapplication of performance parts that make the engine run worse, like people who install too big of, wrong type, or too complicated carburetor compounded by a new fuel pump with too much fuel pressure and then complain about the manufacturers making crap parts.

Building complexity into a system by introducing unnecessary components because its cool, read some article about it, or some clueless friend suggested it. IE, ignition controller boxes, manifolds and cams with ratings that far exceed what the engine needs or will tolerate, compression levels that exceed pump gas fuel capabilities.

Lets not leave out the multitude of cooling issues both real and perceived.

All these things are blamed on the manufacturers with complaints spread by word of mouth.

 

In the late 90's I went to Auto Zone. I needed a heater core for a Camaro. He brings one out that was made in Mexico, lifetime guarantee, $19.99. I said, do you have a USA made one? He says no. I pass and go to NAPA. I ask if he has a Harrison or any USA made heater core. He says no. Ours is made in Mexico and has a one year warranty, $29.99. I passed on it. Back to Auto Zone.

 

My tach still didn't work hooked up to the proper tach wire. Working fine plugged into my HEI. Unless you have wrenches with half the thickness or less, there is no way to get a wrench on any of these starters or alternators and tighten the nuts.

 

I use these, Craftsman ignition wrenches:

 

Interesting, I think I need a set.

 

Beat me to it!

 

To the manufacturer / marketer there is one main criterion , for these parts ;
They have to SELL ! At the lowest possible price .

Fit , function , and quality all take a back seat to that.

 

any particular aftermarket companies you would recommend ?

 

My Dad was a mechanic and bought me a set of those at a young age. I also inherited his set when he passed. I worked as a mechanic for a few years myself and both sets are still unused in their original plastic pouch.

 

Wow, i have both metric and US versions in different configurations and use the crap out of them.

 

I assume they are considerably thinner than normal wrenches? If so, it would have prevented me from over tightening the power terminal on my Summit, no way a regular wrench would fit underneath. Same goes for alternators.

 

You assume correctly.

 

Yes, they are thinner and considerably smaller than a standard combo wrench. What happens when you tighten the upper nut without holding the lower one in place is that the stud spins or breaks off. When it spins, especially the main power stud on the the mini starter is it sometimes prevents the disc inside that completes the circuit for the starter motor to switch on. The other issues when they spin is they break off or the wire that's connected inside twists off.

 

I think the stud inside is grounding out in my case, acting like a welder. I will order a set through sears and keep them in the
Cutlass for road side repairs.

 

Got my first taste of this today. Went to install new upper & lower ball joints that I bought at O'reilly's. Uppers don't fit. They look correct, but the bolt pattern on the new ones is slightly different (0.040"). Tried the lowers. The new press-in ones are 0.020" larger than the ones removed.

 

What brand ball joints did your buy? Most of us only use Moog. The lower ball joint replacement will be larger because when you remove the old one the hole gets slightly larger. The over sized fit compensates for it.

 

As I wrote in another thread a long while ago:
People want cheap, they don't care (most of them anyway) that stuff is junk, it's cheap junk, that's all that matters.
Over here stores that had a good reputation for decent quality products at a premium - but not an extortionate one - over cheap low quality products are suffering in todays economic climate. I'm thinking of clothing stores, but it applies across a wide range of businesses.

I wonder if Japan and Germany, both nations with a reputation for well made stuff have the same problem?.

Roger.

 

I buy NGK spark plugs for that reason and I think they are better quality. German made roller chains is premium stuff look at the Rollmaster and the premium chain version of the Cloyes 9 way billet timing set. I have no problem buying products from any country where citizens have good quality of life and live free.

 

I bought the O'Reilly housebrand (MasterForge). Funny thing is that that both of the inner packages on the uppers and lowers had a Moog part # sticker on them and the MasterForge part number is the same as the Moog.

Just as a note, I didn't measure the lower against the old lower ball joint that was taken out. I measured the lower control arm hole opening against the new "final" shoulder of the MasterForge/Moog ball joint. This was the difference in sizing.

 

a little different but in my body shop a lot of aftermarket sheet metal is a PIA. Maybe a little better then 5 years ago.

 

The lowers are a press fit, although I hammer them in. Can't hep you on the uppers. You can compare what you have to actual Moog PN's or file to fit and bolt them in.

 

I did return the O'Reilly Masterforge uppers and lowers, and instead bought the Moog as OldCutlass indicated. At the counter, I asked him for a set of calipers and measured the upper ball joint bolt holes. They were 0.040 off compared to the Moogs, so I bought both sets of the Moogs. Took them home and they fit first time. As noted, the bottoms are press-fit and do require a bit of pressure to get them in. I did hammer around the edges a bit to get them in.

 

Glad you got it figured out. I've used Moog for the past 40 years and have never had an issue with them. TRW is also a good manufacturer.