Carsick

I have a 69 that has factory a.c.but want to lighten things up a bit. I have the motor out .

Tia

redoldsman

Okay, are you just wanting to remove the AC?

Fun71

Install an aluminum intake manifold on the engine. That should lighten it up.

joe_padavano

Is there a question? Are you trying to ask about an aftermarket A/C system like Vintage Air?

matt69olds

I doubt there is much difference in weight between factory A/C and aftermarket. You could definitely find cheaper and easier weight savings. An aluminum intake would be a good example.

RetroRanger

the compressor, surely one of those aftermarket ac comps saves a few pounds.

when i swapped intakes my BBO iron tipped the scales at ~50lbs
the Al edlebrock performer showed ~26lbs.

Carsick

No I want it just not as much

Carsick

I want to know best routs to go as far as a slimmer after market a/c set up goes. Lol sorry

olds 307 and 403

Are you wanting something like a more modern Sanden compressor instead of the A6? Basically you will be taking up space inside instead of under the hood with an aftermarket system.

joe_padavano

You can get the Pro6Ten compressor, which is basically Sanden guts in an aluminum housing that sorta looks like the GM A6. Much lighter but it bolts to your existing brackets. They come in black as well as this bare aluminum version.




Old Air Products sells a bracket kit to mount a Sanden compressor on an Olds motor. I've got this setup on my 67 Delta. It fits very well.

70sgeek

Just get the Vintage Air complete kit - it completely eliminates the under-hood evaporator core box from the right side of the engine bay, the under-dash box is somewhat more compact and its controls are electronic - i.e. no more cables or vacuum dependencies. Smaller and more efficient compressor (Sanden) as well.

joe_padavano

The issue is, how much does the OP want to change the car? Converting to a Vintage Air under dash unit cleans up the firewall, but at the expense of a LOT more work to convert the car. There are a couple of potential drawbacks on this as well. First, none of these aftermarket all-in-one units retain the factory fresh air capability. They only recirculate interior air. Second, none of them is as robustly built and engineered as OEM. Third, your only source for replacement parts is the manufacturer.

You can swap the compressor and still retain the factory under-dash system as an option. This is minimally invasive but requires you to retain the big HVAC box on the firewall. The good news is that all the OEM functionality is retained. You can also convert your POV valve system to a CCOT system very easily (I did this on my 67 Delta also), which really simplifies the A/C functionality. As for retaining or eliminating the factory cable/vacuum controls, I personally see those as a lot more reliable than Chinesium electronics. If you want to keep the stock control head with the Vintage Air system, you need to adapt their potentiometers to the control head sliders.

I'm not suggesting that one way is any better than the other, but get all the info on pros and cons and make an informed decision for your particular situation.

70sgeek

Yes, it most definitely does require revision work - It was indeed a pricey (approx $1500 for everything including shipping) and somewhat time-consuming endeavor to install. For me, absolutely worth the technology and spatial improvements - I LOVE having the right side of my engine fully accessible. Huge plus for me as well not to worry about switch cable attachment tabs snapping from age or movement, or vacuum lines governing the a/c switch operation.

The Vintage Air kit comes with its own replacement controls panel similarly styled after the factory one - I ultimately sold off most of my original parts after the VA install to recoup some of my investment.

My ragtop was originally just a typical 350 2bbl column shift auto, a/c, p/s, m/b car so no numbers preservation issues for me...

Scott Hyde

Hey 70sgeek, could you give me some more info on the install. I have one ordered and am nervous about installing it. Did you remove the dash or can you install it OK with the dash in place?

70sgeek

Dash frame didn't have to come out but everything connected to it did. And it helped to remove seats and drop steering column

70sgeek

Also a GREAT time to replace an original dash harness since all gauges, glove box, etc will be out of it for the a.c. inatall

Scott Hyde

Did you remove the dash pad?

70sgeek

Didn't remove pad but essentially gutted the insides

Scott Hyde

Thanks for the info!

Noel Anderson

I think the hardest part of the install in my 1969 Cutlass was removing the old system, which includes having to remove the passenger's inner fender well. I also had problems with the Vintage Air flex tubes popping off the duct outlets as I replaced the radio and would pull on them to mount on the Vintage Air case. I tried using Gorilla tape to hold it on but that too would eventually pull off while stretching the flex tube. I ended up using some sheet metal screws to hold the flex tube to the ducts and that worked well. When mounting the Vintage Air Case (A two man job.), I found it was easier to thread the mounting bolts in the case bracket and then slide them through the firewall using nuts in the engine compartment. It does not look as nice as having the bolt heads in the engine compartment, but after my son and I spent some time trying to install per the instructions we gave up. Also if you have the original firewall insulation inside your car, you will have to trim that in order to mount the case. Also double check when you drill the hole for the drain. When I used the dimensions in the instructions I found it would be above my exhaust manifold and drip on it. I ended up moving the drain and plugging the hole.

Noel

bw1339

To me there is something very satisfying about reviving a 50 year old AC system.

71 OLDS

Did the Pro6Ten compressor and R134 conversion/upgrade on both my son's 70 Supreme and my 71 442:
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I weighed the stock compressor vs. the Pro6Ten on my bathroom scale. The Pro6Ten was 21 lbs lighter. Also I will say this is huge undertaking both work and cost. I would say about $2k to get everything right. If all your ductwork and vents are perfect and functioning properly behind the dash, it could be much easier/cheaper. That was NOT the case for either of my cars. If one duct is missing it won't function properly/cool the car on the hottest summer days. Also it's challenging to get the RPMs to increase when the AC is turned on to prevent the car from stalling. I have the FiTech throttle body fuel injection now on my 442 so that's not an issue now but the Supreme has the flip switch with the solenoid to increase the RPMs about 300 RPM before the AC is turned on. To be honest knowing what I know now, not sure I would have done the AC. Both my builds are high performance though. For a cruiser/stockish rebuild I probably would. Still have a "AC belt coming off" issue at WOT (around 6000 RPM) on the Supreme. The 442 works perfectly also shifting the 6 speed around 6000. Also if you don't have your cooling system dialed in on your car it will overheat when you turn the AC on during the hottest summer days (when you need it most). I'm talking alum radiator, dual elect fans etc. Sorry to be negative here but it's lots of work, lots of $$$, and challenging to get everything working properly to have ice cold AC and be able to use it on the hottest summer days and have it function properly in our old muscle cars. Just keeping it real here.

-Joe

70sgeek

the Vintage Air kit set me back about $1400 complete and it's so much better in my opinion than the OEM system it replaced. On my ragtop however it was a no brainer for me since it's a Supreme, not a 442. Definite weight saver given the lighter compressor, complete removal of the under-hood evap box and smaller under-dash main box. Also a plus not to be dependent upon an antiquated EPR valve, vacuum switch and slide control cables for its operation.

I've built my original 350 up somewhat but it's not a maxed-out performer to where I have any belt toss or cooling issues - Cold-Case aluminum rad, 7-blade OEM fan (Corvette piece) w/HD fan clutch and Milodon aluminum water pump keep me under 190 on most days in the FL heat. I have a performance-built Qjet with an OEM-type side-mounted electric throttle solenoid, so it bumps the idle a few hundred rpm whenever the AC is turned on.

The VA was arguably no more expensive than the cost to rehab the OEM stuff - the increased efficiency and especially the space it frees up under the hood with the evap box gone was worth it.

Scott Hyde

VA told me that with their system you didn't need to have anything to kick up the idle because the compressor is so much more efficient????
Thats what they said on the tech line.

70sgeek

I would agree - I haven't noticed the need for it either but I leave it connected anyway just in case.

The VA system doesn't drag on the engine the way the factory a/c did, so the idle doesn't noticeably drop if at all when activated. I presume it's because VA doesn't rely on vacuum for its operation, and that the compressor itself is way more efficient than the old multi-piston OEM unit.