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Just finished breaking up my garage floor and pouring a new slab. Gonna rent a cement grinder from HD. There are so many different epoxy floor coatings on the market. Lots of choices and very confusing. I looked at the kits that are sold in HD and Lowe’s. Any recommendations/experience on a high quality, commercial grade product ? Thanks.
I just used Ghostshield 4500 densifier and 8510 sealer on my new concrete. Pretty happy with it. No matter what, if you have items with steel wheels (jacks, engine stands), the epoxy will scratch and wear down over time.
My biggest mistake was not having the slab power troweled. There are options to burnish and polish a power troweled slab that are pretty cool.
Make sure what ever you use, the expoxy resists hot tire pick up. I used epoxy-coat and did it myself. I’ve used car jacks on it, had gas and oil on it. Just wipe it up. No issues. It has slightly yellowed over 5 years. I have a Natural gas heater in my garage. I used the uv additive with it. 1 kit did my 1-1/2 car garage.
The garage journal forum has an entire subforum devoted to flooring for garages. I'd start there. If you are looking for a high quality, commercial grade product, do not shop at Lowes or HD. Also, as a data point, I installed a U-Coat-It in a three car garage about 10 years ago. It took me a long time to do it as I wanted to only do it once and was meticulous about prep, and even so its performance was marginal in my opinion. I had flaking within a few months at tire locations.
When a car comes in the garage in summer time the tires can be 180 -200 degrees or more depending on location. You are asking a paint film of about 8-10 mills to expand and contract with that temperature change, then you add moisture coming up from the concrete (which is like a sponge with osmosis) and now you have steam. 8 mills aint gonna hold that no matter what the coating is made of. The best thing you can do is double seal the bottom of the floor before it is poured with 6 mill plastic and place some kind of landing pads for your tires. Been there done that..... Tedd
I installed a vapor barrier before I poured the slab. Thank you guys for the good advice. Sounds like it’s all in the prep work. I’m gonna give it a try and rent a cement grinder from HD. Once the job is finished I’m thinking it might be a good idea to let the car cool off in the driveway before putting it back in the garage.
Years of experience, knowledge and (of course) opinions to read through on the previously mentioned garage journal forum. Most of it can be distilled down to:
- Dry - give your slab time to cure, probably 30 days minimum. Test for moisture by taping some clear plastic to the floor and check for condensation
- Prep - dry, clean, etched
- Application - IAW manufacturer's directions
- Product - don't cheap out!
- DIY - might want to check the guarantees that come with a professional application.
I used an epoxy type coating that seemed to be highly rated on my new slab after letting it cure, cleaning with acid and drying. Some areas are still in decent condition after 12 years but other areas are exposed concrete...some due to use/chemicals, some stuck to tires and some just failed.
Solid light colors. Do not add the stupid useless decorative "flake". I call it fastener camouflage. Drop a bolt and it disappears until you scan the floor at floor level with a flashlight...skip the flake! Liken it to dropping a bolt in the grass.
A small amount of abrasive for non-slip is ok but the emphasis on small/fine as the abrasive will make cleaning difficult. A smooth single color floor is best.
Don't skimp. You don't want to strip the cheap shizt to reapply the good. Two-part epoxy is best with proper floor prep. The concrete needs some cure time before its coated.
I re-applied my epoxy coating last summer. First coat lasted 16 years of abuse; engine swaps, a couple of backhalf/roll age jobs, and parking our daily drivers all 8 Missouri seasons. I used the Rustoleum epoxy kit from Lowes in grey with the flake and I really like it. I have used the Ucoat it system on a previous floor and to me there was no difference in the quality between the two.
. It is ALL in the prep. I cleaned and scrubbed the entire floor alternately with Ajax and Muriatic Acid twice each then powerwashed it. You really want to clean and open up the pores in the concrete to give the epoxy some penetration into the floor.
Key points, do not paint the floor yet if its a new pour. like others have said acid etch or scratch it up good, the paint needs something to bite into. Dont use a cheap product. I would use a 100 percent solid epoxy, use a notched squeegee in order to get the right mills, then you can use a regular low pile roller to back roll for a good looking finish.
I used this stuff about 5 yrs ago on my garage floor. Floor was troweled smooth and sat years before frame was built. I power washed then took a floor sander with 36 grit pad to scuff it up. Like most products of this nature, a lot is dependent on surface preparation. Water seal was then applied followed by two part epoxy. I also mixed some silica sand in paint and broadcast by hand also for anti skid. It is high gloss and pretty slick if it gets wet otherwise. Commercial grade, durable and has held up well to stains and scuffing. https://www.northerncoatings.com/index.html
Last edited by scrappie; May 16th, 2020 at 04:47 AM.
Not to take away from the DIY guys but, if not done right or with a quality product, epoxy will fail early. I deal with epoxy coatings every day. You can sharpen your knife with it. IMPO, go the extra mile and have a pro do it.
As an FYI: They are now placing epoxy coating in commercial and residential applications...replacing traditional flooring. I have even seen epoxy on countertops. And the designs are stunning. You don't have to settle for the 'Sprinkles" epoxy flooring any longer. It ain't your Grand-pappy's epoxy any more.
Acid etch . Miratic acid. No grinder. Rinse with bleech solution. Two coats of h and c solid color stain. Solvent base. Or cabit brand. Brush and roll. Must have a charcole respirator. I am a professional painter. Only I'm not a drunk or a pot head. That makes me quite rare and valuable in my field.
Bigmike its nothing to be intimated about, HD has a buffer unit that you can rent and rent the pad with diamond tips, its really meant for removing coatings but you can use it to scratch the floor up, just hose your floor down and keep it wet, keep's the dust down. When your done its an easy clean up, just keep the pressure washer hooked up and wash your floor out the door lol, let it dry up and your good to go, I don't no if your garage is attached or detached but that's why I recommended you use 100% solids epoxy not solvent based, you don't want the smell in house if your attached, and no VOC's, again get a quality paint an not a cheap kit. Use a flat squeegee to lay the first coat down, get it as thin as possible, on the second coat use a notched squeegee 15-20 mills the paint will self level. The paint will hold up to whatever you wanna throw on it lol
Last edited by skyhigh; May 22nd, 2020 at 12:29 PM.
May 14th, 2020, 08:39 PM
