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Everybody I know uses Krylon #1403 Dull Aluminum spray paint on the grills and tail light housings that color. It is hard to find, I ordered it from Ace Hardware online.
Everybody I know uses Krylon #1403 Dull Aluminum spray paint on the grills and tail light housings that color. It is hard to find, I ordered it from Ace Hardware online.
Allan
I took your advise and it came out great. Appreciate your input. Didn't have to much of a problem finding the paint, went to Ace and it was on the shelf.
Cool, Glad it worked out, that paint seems to be the hands-down favorite. I did my '71 grills and they came out really nice too, look like new. I tried everywhere around here and couldn't find that stuff, guys all over have the same problem finding it.
Cool, Glad it worked out, that paint seems to be the hands-down favorite. I did my '71 grills and they came out really nice too, look like new. I tried everywhere around here and couldn't find that stuff, guys all over have the same problem finding it.
Allan
Could you or anyone tell me the correct color the head light beisel should be on a 72 Cutlass Supreme. Mine were painted black when the grill was painted black. I painted the grill the original color which looks good but the beisel don't look right in black. I'm thinking they should also be the same color as the grill. I do have a new set of chrome beisels the I think look good but want the original look for now.
Thanks to the advice in this thread I am glad with how my grille pieces came out for a ‘71Supreme. Any advice on painting the black in between the slots?
Could you or anyone tell me the correct color the head light beisel should be on a 72 Cutlass Supreme. Mine were painted black when the grill was painted black. I painted the grill the original color which looks good but the beisel don't look right in black. I'm thinking they should also be the same color as the grill. I do have a new set of chrome beisels the I think look good but want the original look for now.
Bob
If your talking about the headlight housing (plastic around headlights) on 72 it should match body color along with the stone shield (center plastic piece)
I also had to paint my grill this past spring. After botching the job a few years ago, I found a way to do it right. Paint pens. I could not find them in the stores, but go online and order a "Testers Flat Black" paint pen for metal. The only ones that I could find in the stores were gloss black.
I ordered 2 just in case the tip got damaged, but you will only need one. It has a slanted tip and an even flow of paint. If you can keep your hand steady, the slots will really pop and look great against the dull aluminum of the rest of the grill.
Last edited by chip-powell; Dec 11, 2019 at 03:23 AM.
Got the grilles painted and spent quite a bit of time taping, cutting, and hand-painting the black paint in. Another question though; how do you attach the "Cutlass Supreme" emblem without breaking it? It seems more fragile than the original emblem. The original seems aluminum while the reproduction is definitely a plastic.
It's actually fairly easy. Just be REALLY careful with the screw behind the final e in "supreme". That one is very touchy. On my 2nd attempt (I broke the 1st emblem) I held the "e" with my fingers while slowly screwing the nut on the back. Once I felt that cursive connector in front of the "e" start to move a little, I stopped tightening and left it be.
Got the grilles painted and spent quite a bit of time taping, cutting, and hand-painting the black paint in. Another question though; how do you attach the "Cutlass Supreme" emblem without breaking it? It seems more fragile than the original emblem. The original seems aluminum while the reproduction is definitely a plastic.
The factory used a black plastic backer plate that sits right under the emblem and helps support it. It may be repro'd. It's about 1/16" or so thick. You could fabricate one yourself if you can find some appropriate material.
The factory used a black plastic backer plate that sits right under the emblem and helps support it. It may be repro'd. It's about 1/16" or so thick. You could fabricate one yourself if you can find some appropriate material.
I have that plate still, its the thread-cutting screw on the four prongs attached to the emblem that I am worried about.
It's actually fairly easy. Just be REALLY careful with the screw behind the final e in "supreme". That one is very touchy. On my 2nd attempt (I broke the 1st emblem) I held the "e" with my fingers while slowly screwing the nut on the back. Once I felt that cursive connector in front of the "e" start to move a little, I stopped tightening and left it be.
Thank you! Did you use just a hand wrench with a little pressure?