Hey Guys,
Have a question, my olds turns over a little slow as if the battery has low voltage, but does not. It will fire up after a few seconds, could this be a timing issue.
my 72 would fire up as soon as the key was turned.

 

Could be a bad connection. I would clean your contacts on your battery, then check on starter and so on.

 

Can be a host of considerations:
(1) Time since last started? Fuel evaporation in float bowl;
(2) Possibly a weak IGN coil;
(3) It would be best to state the battery voltage when starting - e.g. exact voltage;
(4) Sometimes minor leaks around carburetor gaskets;
(5) Small leak from a vacuum hose;
(6) Distributor cap;
(7) Points;and, of course....
(8) Faulting ground from battery to block, battery to chassis. It NEVER hurts to remove the terminal ends, clean them and the attachment points.

Those are only considerations from which to draw upon. How does the car perform at idle, cruising & under load?

 

Just got this in November, took her down the street turned around, put it in reverse and tapped the gas and she stalled out, start up though, of course turning over slow before firing. Idles fine

 

Car only has 40,000 miles, and engine was apparently rebuilt at 15,500 miles.

 

You can check out the car here, this is what I bought from guy who bought it from Hemmings.
hemmings.com/auction/1971-oldsmobile-cutlass-supreme

 

I realize you bought it from the person who bought it from that ad, but the description and pictures in the ad make me question things.

https://www.hemmings.com/auction/197...utlass-supreme

- The Olds-350-powered Cutlass Supreme is described as fully reliable
Is that how you see it? You said the engine stalled during the first drive.

- This Cutlass Supreme has the same version of the Oldsmobile 350-cu.in. V-8 that was installed in that model during the 1971 model year.
That is not saying it is the original engine. The pictures show the block casting number for a 68-76 block, but also show an EGR intake manifold, which was first used in 1975. So this is a 1975 or 1976 engine, maybe?

- The engine had 15,500 miles on it when it was the recipient of a full mechanical rebuild, according to the seller.
No one rebuilds an engine with 15k miles on it unless there was a very good reason for needing a rebuild.


I just love this Q and A:

Q: Any general idea as to why the heat/ac is non-functioning?
A: Im not sure. It was working so Im quite sure its just something simple.

Well, I would categorize not having an AC compressor at all as slightly more than "just something simple", and the heater hose wrapped from the heater core inlet to the outlet indicates the core is disconnected, likely due to leaks. And how can he say "It was working" when none of it is even hooked up?

 

I haven’t (yet) reviewed the listing, however based upon Kenneth’s statements demonstrating dubious fukery, I’m suspecting we’ve gone from a possible host of considerations to a possible goober full of considerations. This is still less than a buttload and most likely less than a fukload.

Do you plan to address the issue(s) on your own or is it your intent to have a mechanic assist? You’ll need more than a screwdriver & pair of pliers.

There are many CO members with a vast array of knowledge to assist. Everyone’s intention will be to help diagnose the issue(s) instead of throwing parts & $$ needlessly at the car.

Who’s going to do the work?

 

Sorry, I got distracted when looking at that ad and went off on a tangent.

Back to your slow cranking issue. I noticed in the pictures that the positive battery cable has replacement bolt on end terminals. My experience with those is they can have corrosion build-up that can cause starting issues. Take them apart and clean them up as well as you can, including soaking them in water/baking soda solution.

In your first post, you said the battery was not low. Do you know what the voltage reading is? It doesn't take much voltage drop to cause the starter to turn slowly. And then there's the starter itself - it could be worn out and just not up to the task.

 

That color looks good on there. I hope you work out the issues. Obviously the heater core Has been bypassed. Hopefully you are a mechanic.

72 bumper for an upgrade?

 

I know you say the battery voltage is good, but what is the actual voltage? A fully charged battery is 12.6V, with the .6 being very important.

 

I suggested OP state battery voltage in Post #3, now there have been two additional suggestions. Let's get three or four more.

 

Yeah, I saw that as well. Apparently the fella was unaware that the bumpers are the same in 71 and 72; it's just the tail light lenses that are different.

 

Not that any of this discussion has anything to do with the original issue - which was what again - or yeah, a slow start issue. BTW, can all states change the color of the title on a motor vehicle after it has been painted - regardless of a previous color, if you elect to repaint the car a different color, you can change the color on the title - is that correct?

 

After it sets awhile, pour a shot glass of gas down the carb bowl and see if it starts right up. You never know, it may of always turned slow, but the carb may have held gas longer. That would eliminate at least one issue you haven't checked out yet, and the cost is very low...Tedd