When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I understand original u-joints will require some heat to melt out the plastic retaining rings, and they will need to be pressed out/in. I have a good c-clamp, but might be interested in picking up a ball joint press kit, that I assume would work well, or better for u-joint removal/install. Anyone had good luck using a ball joint press 'kits" for u-joints?.
Don't you have a bench vise, that's the best. I have also done it with a hammer, but you need to support it good, and lots of guys will probably say that's a mistake. Also make sure you take the locks off.
Removal:
Mark the shaft location on the pinion and slip joint ends prior to removal.
A large USA made bench vice an assortment of sacrificial sockets and a dead blow hammer are what I use.
One socket the same size as the cup one larger to allow the cup to be received opposite the push end.
I have seen people use the "beat with a hammer and socket" method while supporting the yokes with wood. But I don't recommend it. Easy to tweak the shaft or the yokes. Semi-Tractor and larger driveshafts it's ok.
Yes, heat to remove OEM plastic retaining method. Don't need excessive heat. Clean all remnants of the plastic from the yoke.
You may need a hammer to tap and get it started. Only support the shaft at the yokes, don't vice or hammer the tube.
Installation:
You can gently evenly heat the yoke ears and put the ujoint in the freezer for 30 mins. Then install.
Using thermals to your advantage will make pressing them back in easier and won't gall the interfering surfaces.
Do it quickly before the two parts acclimate to each other. Cold grease helps retain the needle bearings.
Before you reinstall the clips insure the ujoint is centered. You want to check for equidistance in the retainer clip grooves and that the ujoint flexes in all directions smoothly.
Install the retainer clips. If one goes in hard tap the ujoint in the one or the other direction to allow the clip to seat easily. Once the clips are in, check the movement. If you detect a stiff spot set the yoke on the vice and give the cups a tap with the right sized socket to adjust alignment.
If they are greasable grease it on the bench while articulating the joint to distribute the grease.
Clean the pinion saddles with scotch brite. If you reuse the U bolts clean them too. Replace the split lock washers if they are stretched.
Or purchase new U bolts if yours are ratty. They are cheap. Torque to spec and use a dab of blue removable Loctite.
Alternative and cost-effective method:
Take it to a good shaft shop and have them do it and check shaft balance. Its cheap here and they stock Spicer.
Be aware the Ujoints are installed after the balancing process. So if you want the shaft balanced(recommended) don't install the new ujoints.
Spicer is the only brand I will use.
Last edited by droldsmorland; Jun 19, 2020 at 09:32 AM.
Back in the 80s I just used a hammer and that worked. Nowdays you can borrow tools from the local auto parts store and make the job much easier than pounding the joints in and out.
This is a picture of a ball joint press and the C clamp part doubles as a u-joint press. I have to repeat, using this tool makes the job very easy.
I bought the Pittsburgh 60827 Ball Joint Service Kit which I believe is what Fun71 pictured. Works great. Relatively inexpensive from Harbor Freight. droldsmorland has good recommendations.
If you wish to become a U-joint expert, watch this youtube series
from Weber University (there's something like 7 parts). You'll learn about variations in quality, C-clip thickness selection, respect for the roller bearings (don't pound on the cups!).
Last edited by briane; Jun 19, 2020 at 11:32 AM.
Reason: clarifications
