70 cutlass, 455 headers
#1
70 cutlass, 455 headers
Hello, Looks like I need some more advice. I called Summit up to get some headers for a 1970 Cutlass supreme with a 455 and was told that there's a problem installing them on a 455 due to the height and offset of the engine. They said they would sell me some headman headers and I could try to make them work. Can anybody please tell me what headers will work on my car?
Thank you. Mike
Thank you. Mike
#3
#8
This has been an ongoing problem with header manufacturers for decades. I have personally contacted several manufacturers to try to get this cleared up, only to be blown off with a form letter email each time. No one knows where this misinformation came from, but it seems to be impossible to kill it. As noted, simply get headers for the same year 442 and ignore the footnotes. As for these phone tech help lines, if it isn't a Chevy, don't expect useful info.
#9
If you are swapping a 455 in place of a 350, the first thing is, do NOT get "455" motor mounts unless you are also swapping the frame mounts. Personally, I'd same the money and simply use your existing 350 motor mounts (Anchor P/N 2261) and frame mounts with the 455. This will put the crank centerline in exactly the same place as it would be if you had used the 2328 motor mounts listed for the 455 and switched the frame mounts. Either way, the exhaust ports on the 455 will be in exactly the same place and the headers will fit the same either way.
#10
Thanks Joe, if useing the350 mounts I heard the engine sits higher and will effect air cleaner to hood clearance. But if crank centerline is the same, I think cylinder height may be an issue.
#11
FYI, the motor mount and header questions come up here about once a month. Search is your friend.
#12
You are correct that the heads will be higher, which reduces the clearance between the valve covers and the master cylinder and AC box. It's no different than a factory 455 car, though.
#14
American Racing Headers, Lyndinhurst, LI ...I'm using their stainless header that bolts right up no mods necessary. You must switch to the compact starter. They don't hang under the car as deep as the hookers I had on previously which had some lovely dimples from bottoming out.
#16
American Racing Headers, Lyndinhurst, LI ...I'm using their stainless header that bolts right up no mods necessary. You must switch to the compact starter. They don't hang under the car as deep as the hookers I had on previously which had some lovely dimples from bottoming out.
#17
I live in the salt belt also, I will take that advice and get the stainless. Slam said to go with the American headers. I wonder if summit has them. I will give them a call, thanks all!
Mike
Mike
#18
I have owned the car over 15 years. The guy I bought it from restored it back then but not frame off. Powder coating had not been invented yet so he used an orange epoxy primer which I curse him every time I'm under the car. Little paint flakes come off. I etch the metal & use a marine monopoxy with brushing liquid to hide the orange primer. I recommend listening to the mufflers before you buy. I have the 2 1/2 flowmaster kit for Olds which fit fine. the 2 1/2 exhaust tips are from pypes. I'm getting used to the sound. problem is the flowmaster seems to take away that "olds" sound where the old 2" dynomax kept it Olds . Don't get me wrong, it'd deep, throaty, not too loud, but the other day I pulled up alongside a 70 SS and it sounded very similar.
#23
American Racing Headers, Lyndinhurst, LI ...I'm using their stainless header that bolts right up no mods necessary. You must switch to the compact starter. They don't hang under the car as deep as the hookers I had on previously which had some lovely dimples from bottoming out.
#26
when you go from a mass produced piece of metal to a custom made chunk of stainless your gonna pay the price. you can check Kooks, I see some of the guys use them. I think they are similarly priced. Ebay has some China made ones but I know from the marine industry the stainless out of China just blows!!! ya get what ya pay for. the hookers I took out were complete rust & flakey. I live near the beach but the car lives in a garage with a dehumidifier.
#27
Thanks slam, I will invest in a good set of headers, I put a street fighter trans in over last summer and took the left header loose and it was a pain to reinstall, good point. I done wanna go through that again, also I feel your pain with the orange primer. My car is green and they used yellow primer, if I get a stone chip it stands out like a sore thumb, as soon as I get the car off the lift I will post some pics!
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