Finally after days of what's next to crop up, think I am making progress. New radiator, water pump, fan clutch, thermostat, aluminum intake. Flushed the engine several times, installed all above, the intake is a crosswind style eliminating the heat riser and allows cooler air under the carb, which has eliminated the hot start problem with the fuel. Had to convert to a low profile air cleaner to clear hood though. Tried a road trip yesterday and oil pressure dropped off--felt I was really snake bit, pressure sending unit had failed, got 55-60 lbs. at cold idle and 30 at hot idle, verified with mechanical gauge, engine temp now at 180-190. Anyone see any problem with running a 20W50 oil, been using 10W30? Also anyone got any info on a larger oil pan, I was surprised to learn that big honking engine has only a 4 qt. capacity. Live in deep south temps are very hot. Only thing left is to remove the rodent (RAT) that has been homesteading. Found a roll of destroyed paper towels in the back floorboard, got some traps set, they can ruin a vehicle quick.

 

5qts.

 

I agree not sure what problem is unless wrong dipstick when oil and filter were changed and after start-up and a wait it came to full mark with only 4 qts.

 

Those are higher than average oil pressures.

Normal would be about 30-40 at cruise and 10-15 at idle (yes, a freshly rebuilt motor with a high-flow pump with a shimmed relief valve may go higher).



Nope. I always ran 20W50 in loose engines in the summer, but, as I said above, you really shouldn't need to.

The factory recommendation was 10W30 in cold weather and 10W40 in hot weather.



The engine takes 5 quarts, including the filter.

If your dipstick is reading full after 4 quarts, then you've got the wrong dipstick (or dipstick tube).
Dipstick and tube lengths are shown in the Chassis Service Manual.

- Eric

 

Use 15w40 oil. It is the best on the planet. It has a CJ4 rating and that is what these older non-roller cam cars need. It also has high zinc content for those solid flat tappet cams. Your engine will thank you.

 

Not anymore.
It still has more zinc than the gasoline-engine oils, but the "acceptable" zinc levels were reduced one or two years ago to "not quite acceptable" levels.

There are threads on this subject somewhere on these boards.

- Eric

 

I would use an oil with good levels of ZDDP in them. I use Valvoline Racing oil in my stuff. If you do a search on engine oils or ZDDP in the forum you will find many discussions. Your oil pressures are perfect with the 30w in it, I would stick with it.

 

CI4 rating was good to go. CJ4 is insufficient and will cause wear.

15W40 is an excellent choice. Shell Rotella in particular is what I used forever....until my CI4 rated supply dried up. Now you need to run additives or switch to something with high ZDDP ratings like Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs oils.

 

I respectfully disagree. Do some research, such as:

API CJ-4 oils exceed the performance criteria of API CI-4 with CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4 and CF-4 and can effectively lubricate engines calling for those API Service Categories. When using
CJ-4 oil with higher than 15 ppm sulfur fuel, consult the engine manufacturer for service interval.

http://www.apicj-4.org/servicecategory_description.html

If you would like I can post some more links.

 

Or this:

http://stlouisncrs.org/news_files/St..._July_2011.pdf

If you think you are fanatics about your cars, try the NCRS.

 

Again if you do a search this subject has been discussed and beaten to death.