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69 cutlass 350 v8 oil pump question

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Old November 7th, 2014 | 10:33 AM
  #1  
super stock's Avatar
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69 cutlass 350 v8 oil pump question

Does the engine have to be raised in order for the oil pan to clear the crossmember,,and any other info should I know about..I have done a few in chevrolets, and this will be my first with an Olds,, Thank you for any advice. Bob
Old November 8th, 2014 | 05:46 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by super stock
Does the engine have to be raised in order for the oil pan to clear the crossmember,,and any other info should I know about..I have done a few in chevrolets, and this will be my first with an Olds,, Thank you for any advice. Bob
This is another question that comes up frequently. The first advice is to read the section on oil pan removal in the Chassis Service Manual, where you will find that not only do you need to lift the engine, by the time you are done, you'll only be six bellhousing bolt and three torque converter bolts away from simply pulling it out. You'll find pulling the motor is a MUCH easier way to do this.
Old November 8th, 2014 | 06:55 AM
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Joe
the exhaust is NOT negligible here in MI

snapped off rusty bolts... drilling out....
all the wires for senders and ign.
fuel
trans lines
Coolant mess
Distributor R&R

You really just need to elevate the engine A LITTLE, like two inches, then turn the crank to a favorable front weight position.

Motor mounts have to be undone then removed from engine block.

Why are we after the oil pump? Timing gear bits clogging it?
Old November 8th, 2014 | 07:24 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Octania
Joe
the exhaust is NOT negligible here in MI
Yeah, I grew up in MA, so I'm familiar with that problem (I remember changing the starter in my 65 442 convert in the snow outside the dorm in Cambridge, MA - I got rid of that car when the frame rusted out). The fact remains that even if you get the pan off with the engine in the car, you're then on your back with oil dripping in your face while you change the pump.

I'm too old for that to be fun anymore.
Old November 8th, 2014 | 08:34 AM
  #5  
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I agree, it can be done on your back, but who wants too. It's so much simpler on a stand.
Old November 8th, 2014 | 02:29 PM
  #6  
super stock's Avatar
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oil pump ???

Originally Posted by Octania
Joe
the exhaust is NOT negligible here in MI

snapped off rusty bolts... drilling out....
all the wires for senders and ign.
fuel
trans lines
Coolant mess
Distributor R&R

You really just need to elevate the engine A LITTLE, like two inches, then turn the crank to a favorable front weight position.

Motor mounts have to be undone then removed from engine block.

Why are we after the oil pump? Timing gear bits clogging it?
*****
Previous Owner said he lost a timing gear sometime ago. I recently purchase this cutlass and have been driving it without any issues,No engine noises... It has only the fact. idiots lights which the oil light flickers now at idle,, I installed a new mechanical gauge and it reads 45lb cold and 28-30 at 50 mph and 5 lb at low idle in gear when hot at 180*..Im thinking oil pump...could it be cam bearings or main bearing ??? Thanks for any input,,, Bob

Last edited by super stock; November 9th, 2014 at 10:36 AM. Reason: TTT
Old November 9th, 2014 | 10:37 AM
  #7  
super stock's Avatar
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oil pump

Originally Posted by super stock
*****
Previous Owner said he lost a timing gear sometime ago. I recently purchase this cutlass and have been driving it without any issues,No engine noises... It has only the fact. idiots lights which the oil light flickers now at idle,, I installed a new mechanical gauge and it reads 45lb cold and 28-30 at 50 mph and 5 lb at low idle in gear when hot at 180*..Im thinking oil pump...could it be cam bearings or main bearings ??? Thanks for any input in advance,,, Bob
Old November 10th, 2014 | 12:38 AM
  #8  
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From: Too close to Toronto!!
The sender for the oil light switches on at three or four pounds, so at idle five pounds is OK. Check the chassis manual, engine section.
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