I have a chance to pick up this beast. Not the original color, (it was originally white) and the large bondo patch behind the driver's door is a bit scary to contemplate, but the interior and top are in beautiful shape. 64K original miles, and she starts, runs, and drives, but has a slight fuel leak somewhere near the back.

Thoughts? Opinions? Anyone here have a useable 1/4 panel for sale?

I went to a wrecking yard yesterday to look for one. Buddy said they had a starfire there. Turned out to be a 62 starfire, not a 65/66 as I had hoped, but there's a lot of useable parts for that car if anyone is interested. I'll post pics of that in another thread once I find the cable to download them from the digicam...

Anyhow, any ballpark on value for the convert, and is it worth messing with with that nasty hit on it? Other than that, it seems to be in pretty damn good shape. I'm just a bit scared of what's behind that patch once it comes out.

-Jeff

 

You have a PM.
Gene

 

The Old Cars Price Guide puts the value of a '65 Starfire convertible in #4 condition (runs and drives but needs full restoration) at about $4,500.

 

Does that window say "$4000" or "$400?"

Ant that IS an impressive patch of bondo there. Looks like something I would do .

- Eric

 

As always converts need to be checked for frame rot, diecast trim is hard to find and expensive.... so is rear bumper if it needs one. I wouldnt plan on swapping that quarter just yet....maybe just needs re-working some. A very expensive car to restore but a fun one for sure.

 

If it was $400, I'd already have it!

-Jeff

 

Wasn't thinking of a full resto, just a decent paint job, and minor mechanical work. Possibly a scarebird conversion to front disk if it needed brakes anytime soon. Wanted to keep it as mostly original, but single line master cylinders + lots of inertia... Need to be safe

 

I drove a 66 Delta as a daily driver for more than 12 years..... single master is fine. Car stopped very well. There were not a rash of crashes back in the day from single master cyls failing. When they do fail you usually have brakes if you hit the pedal hard but gradual pressure causes the pedal to go to the floor. Of course there should be no leaks... For sure though all rubber lines need replacing and steel ones looked at for rot. Emergency brake cables need to be un-rotted as well. (talking from experience) My cruiser car is a 66 Delta with manual brakes.....doesnt scare me at all!

 

I've driven them as well. Was more or less thinking that if it needs brakes at some point, may as well make the upgrade. Dealing with an almost 50 year old hydraulic system in the midwest. Even if it doesn't leak, I fully expect that if I had to touch any of the lines, they will definitely have some corrosion issues rendering them delicate at best.

I haven't seen the underside of this car yet. Owner says things are solid there, but working on things here in the rust belt for most of my lift, I've had to replace my share of steel lines. gas/brake/etc. It's never an "easy fix" like the customer usually hopes for. Owning a flaring tool and tubing cutter has saved my tail quite a few times over the years.