Allan R

I know that's hardly a big deal to a lot of people, but there's some out there who want to do more than just shoot the fan with a coat of black paint and call it done.

Since I need to also restore my cooling system I felt that I might as well get a head start on the game. Currently my car doesn't have HD cooling, it's a stock 4 blade non AC car. Not adding AC, but I am adding HD cooling just on general principle of keeping the engine happier.

So far I have all the parts I need - rad shroud & lower mounts, HD water pump, new correct water pump pulley, fan, fan clutch, belts, new upper/side/lower shroud seals and OEM radiator overflow reservoir. I am currently working on getting a 3 row core radiator to top off the list.

Today was the day to tackle the fan. This is one I pulled last year from a 71 Cutlass Flattop with AC. Needless to say it needs some help. So here is my step by step of the restoration of this fan. It took over 5 hours and you'll see why in the following posts.


Since I just finished putting together my new sand blaster, I put it to good use. Since this isn't really heavily rusted I used 150 grit glass beads.


Here's what I started with. The fan is generally in good shape, but has one blade that needed to be straightened a bit. There's also some serious roughness and nicking on the edges of the blades.




After the first quick pass through the blaster the fan came out looking like this. I only wanted to clean the majority of crud on the first pass so I could work on cleaning and fixing the edges by hand.

Olds64

Allan, the fan looks a million times better after running it through the bead blaster. I look forward to seeing it once you paint it.

Allan R

The next step was to start getting rid of the burrs on the edges of the blades. Start with 100 grit sandpaper and work all around each blade from both sides. Then go over the entire surface with 220 or 240 to smooth out the light scratches from the 100 paper





There are stampings on the fan to likely indicate what the pitch of the blade is. Looks like this:



Now the fan goes back into the blast cabinet to get another full dose of 150 glass beads. This time I went over all the blade and center hub very carefully to give it a finished smooth surface that could be tac cleaned and painted. Before painting though, I wondered why the fan had to be ALL black?? Since I have the opportunity (and time) I decided to mask off the center hub and rivets on the reverse side. My idea was to create a 2 tone fan. Center would be natural metal cast, and the blades satin black. After a significant amount of taping and cutting, this is what I had. Notice how nice the blades look after that final blast and tack.

Every rivet was taped and tape cut back with an exacto knife.


The hub extensions and center all carefully taped off too

dfire25

Nice sandblaster! I'd give my left nut for one of those. It would make my life so much easier.

Allan R

First thing I did after taping was tack clean the blades again. Then shot them with a coat of satin black sand-able primer. That showed where a few minor flaws were, so they were lightly sanded and re-primed. Both sides looked uniformly even and the edges of the blades were all smooth and slightly tapered from the sanding I gave them.

After the primer dried, I inspected the fan to see how even the paint would lay down. I was pleased so it was on to the next step. Put something under the center of the hub enough to keep it from touching the ground/table/whatever you're working with. Shoot uniform coats of semi gloss black onto the blades. This is where patience is a virtue. Don't try to rush and turn the part over right away. After the paint has flashed and dried for at least 1/2 hour, turn over the fan and paint the other side. Set aside and let dry for a couple hours.

After removing the tape? You now have a 2 tone 6 blade fan that looks probably better than the day it was made. I will wait for another couple of days for the paint to fully cure. Then I'll shoot the whole assembly with satin clear to preserve the center metal cast. Otherwise it will start flash rusting soon as there's moisture in the air.





Hope you enjoyed this simple but interesting restoration. Sometimes it's the little details that make life interesting.

This Restoration Idea was brought to you by the numbers 7 and 2 and the letters O,L,D,S,M,O,B,I,L,and E.

Allan R

Thanks Jesse. It was actually finished much earlier today, but it takes time to put these posts together. Have a look ^^^ to see how it concluded. I think it looks a million times better now too!

I think parcel post for your left nut would only cost around $5.00?? The blaster works quite well, but was a PITA to assemble. The air feed is from a single stage 60 gallon compressor (3 piston) 5 HP, runs off 220 that is rated for 18.5 CFM at 100 psi. Makes the work go so much easier. And it's great to never run out of air with air tools either. Who needs a broom when you've got shop air??

car_designer

That looks great Allan.

dfire25

When a friend and I restored his 69 chevelle in my garage, we used his compressor which looks just like yours. We hooked up the portable sandblaster to it and it was nice. To get the 220v we ran a cord outside to my A/C unit lol. It was late in the season anyway, so we didn't need the A/C. when ever I wanted to clean the floor I just used the air hose..

dfire25

BTW I have to restore a 7 blade fan soon, so I may steal your idea. I'll give you full credit of course. Looks great.

Allan R

I actually got the idea last year when I restored my rear axle and differential. I decided to add a W27 cover to the diff. Instead of painting the pumpkin black, I decided to go with a 'simulated W27 axle'. It's NOT a W27 as the cover wasn't really even an option in 72, but I think it looks cool as heck.

It used to be an SA 2.73 open. Now it's a 3.42 posi. Same concept only in larger scale.

dfire25

Lol I'm planning on doing the same thing! Why just add the W-27 cover when you can go for the factory look. Looks cooler that way even though its not a true W-27.

1971cutlas

Nice work Allan. Good to see you back .Hey,with so much time on your hands ,Maybe i'll ship you my 4 blade fan to redo!!!
Cheers ,

Juve

Allan R

Thank you Juve.

You'd be surprised - probably just go over and see Henry (DENT). Love his 72 W29 442! I think he has a blaster he could do that for you pretty quick. The only thing that determines time on this kind of project is what kind of results you want. As far as materials cost, the primer and paint are quite inexpensive. I used FROG tape (no bleed ever) to ensure good adhesion and crisp lines.

Actually right now I have plenty on the work agenda for my own car and I'm helping a local guy with his 71 CS at the same time. I'd like to get mine to a driving condition within the next month so I can see how much improvement has occurred in the last 2 years of rebuilding.

1971cutlas

Yes ,but I think Henry is enjoying his car now. (very nice work),I saw his paint work when I bought some fenders off him for my 71.

oldstata

Great work Allen !! I love the little details it really what makes the car and all the hrs worth it !! Recently I wanted to take a short cut and my paint guy refused to paint it tell it was redone ,it really opened my eyes to a new found respect .

oldzzy

Nice work Allan! Nice attention to detail! Glad to see ya back as well!

bigrig12

Allan, another exceptional piece....a thing of beauty! Billy

Bernhard

The fan and diff both look great nice work.
Are those factory bolt's on the diff cover? If not I think it would even look better with stock style bolts.

Allan R

No, those were mock ups that were holding the cover before I installed the gasket and gear oil. I bead blasted the original cover bolts, painted them a matching aluminum and installed them. They also have a flanged edge that serves as a lock washer. Nice to see you also pay attention to details!

Here's a pic taken during the install that shows the proper GM diff cover bolts

Olds64

Allan, we're both wrong. After seeing the finished product I'm convinced it looks at least a "ZILLION" times better.

BTW, the differential is cool too.

DENT

Thats cool Allan, glad your back.

Hey , let us know how you like the 3.42"s . Im considering this swap (winter project).

oldzzy

Oh C'mon, join the 3.90 club! lol

Bernhard

[QUOTE=Allan R;565611]No, those were mock ups that were holding the cover before I installed the gasket and gear oil. I bead blasted the original cover bolts, painted them a matching aluminum and installed them. They also have a flanged edge that serves as a lock washer. Nice to see you also pay attention to details!

Here's a pic taken during the install that shows the proper GM diff cover bolts
[/QUO
That's better, looks nice you have a good eye for detail . I like quality workman ship and it all starts in the prep., When I seen how you prepped the parts I knew it would turn out nice.

1969w3155

Well done, that is a sweet piece.

Sampson

Over the top as usual Alan! Pretty work. Now I feel really inadequate